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Herbertlemon102

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Posts posted by Herbertlemon102

  1. Yeahhh. Just like the first time you work out at the gym.. your arms ache and are hard to use for a couple of days :giggle:

    Ive been trying the pedal hops.. but sucking big time..

    i get my balance on the rear wheel, start to let the front wheel drop a little, while its starting to drop, i load my body weight ready, but then go to hop, release the brake and the front wheel just drops, and i end up looking like an idiot, leaning over the bars haha

    when you drop the front wheel to do a pedal kick, give the pedals a good kick, like you would if you were starting a wheelie.
  2. As said, crazy short stays might not be feasible, certainly will feel pretty nasty/odd with such a high BB.

    Reach is measure from the centre of the BB to top centre of the headtube, what you've measure there is the reach. What figure do you come out with when measuring the actual reach?

    Why such a slack head angle? Was this to achieve the desired wheelbase?

    who even knows, I've just looked at it again and laughed.
  3. First idea- I have no idea what's acceptable geo wise, but here's what they are-

    Wb: 1000mm

    Chainstay: 340mm

    Bb: +100mm <---(going mad)

    Reach: (measured from top of seat post/tube to headtube) 540mm

    Head angle of 70 degrees/ or 120 depending which was you measure it from, it's 20 degrees from vertical.

    I've put the disc mount inbetween the two stays, measured to fit my Deore.

    post-37174-0-93465600-1415030084_thumb.j

  4. I know the problem, it's my freewheel not being centered, as in the outer cog of the freewheel doesnt spin true to the center. It's a common problem, ericbenjaminr had the same problem Wiith the same freewheel, and I said exactly what you just said to him when he put a tensioner on. But in the end, I'm not replacing a perfectly good functioning freewheel, just bend a spoke to shape and the problem is solved.

    I wouldn't bother in a tensioner. You're taking away the benefits of having horizontal dropouts with a built in tensioner. If your chain has a tight spot then get to the route of that problem and sort that out. Maybe you should try a different RH crank arm on to see if that solves the problem, maybe borrow someone else's while you see if that fixes it.

  5. And Herb, please don't post any of your sketches because you'll make my drawing look even worse than it already does :P

    now I'm tempted to get out my pen :P do you know what would be interesting? Fitting it with an EBB- eccentric bottom bracket, where the bb is not centered, and you tighten the chain by adjusting the BBs position. Carbon belt drive bikes have them often.
    • Like 2
  6. So I've just received my engineering scholarship and sponsor from Warwick university, and with it comes £300 a year to spend on "engineering related studies" (even though they have no way of checking what I spend it on) so I thought I'd build a mod frame. Onza tpro has already given some amazing ideas, as I just moved this from chit chat, but I'd like some ideas and inspiration for aesthetics and function. I have free reign over what I can do. Things like the disc mount being inbetween the two stays, etc. I'd just like to hear peoples ideas , I'm really looking forward to this and want to include a bunch if features!

    "You could try magura mounts on the chainstay or underside of the seatstay? It may not be 100% efficient, but it would look hella cool you could also put the disc mount in the gap between the gap between the chainstay and seatstay rather than on top of it... It should have a sprung tensioner, but on top of the chainstay rather than hanging below so you can't bash it, but you retain the auto-tensioning, set and forget functionality Integrated seat, like an ashton? Definitely 135mm rear spacing so you can run a hope hub! You could play around with tubing profiles and materials to prevent denting downtubes and retaining strength elsewhere I guess... How about having the head bearings seat straight into the headtube? Bolt through axles? " ---here are some idea from the chit chat post

  7. I'll create another one in trialschat, though I like those ideas!

    You could try magura mounts on the chainstay or underside of the seatstay? It may not be 100% efficient, but it would look hella cool :P you could also put the disc mount in the gap between the gap between the chainstay and seatstay rather than on top of it... It should have a sprung tensioner, but on top of the chainstay rather than hanging below so you can't bash it, but you retain the auto-tensioning, set and forget functionality :) Integrated seat, like an ashton? Definitely 135mm rear spacing so you can run a hope hub! You could play around with tubing profiles and materials to prevent denting downtubes and retaining strength elsewhere I guess... How about having the head bearings seat straight into the headtube? Bolt through axles?

    Would you do forks too?

    Sorry if half of that is incoherent, or a bit too extreme for you to actually do, I am just throwing ideas at my phone :P A bunch of that stuff is exactly what I would do if I were to build a mod frame, which I really want to do :P

  8. I've just received my engineering scholarship and sponsor from Warwick university, and with it come £300 a year for me, £200 a year for my college to spend on me. They have no way of checking, but they said the money should be put towards "engineering related studies". I'm thinking of building a frame. I'd like to give it a go, anyway. I own a mod so it would be a mod frame. What should it look like? What features? I'd like some ideas and inspiration on interesting aesthetics and features. Cheers

  9. If a shop can't do it they aren't trying. You need a vice and bar that fits over crank arm.

    old pair of handlebars wedged against the removal tool and the pedal works if you can't find a bar that fits

    Edit: whoops not a freewheel, my bad, but of you put a threaded rod through the cranks anyway it would still work

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