Herbertlemon102
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Posts posted by Herbertlemon102
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It has a name, can't remember it. I was out in my local park today, riding this machined rock that was perfect cube-shaped. When on top of it, it's slightly shorter than the wheel base, so the edges of the rock are pinching the tyres about 3 inches inwards from both ends of the wheel base (the center of both wheels). When trying to go from that position straight to rear wheel, the bike fell backwards from underneath me as I kicked the pedals, resulting in some shiny new scratches to forks, cranks, legs and soul. What is the move that gets from that pinched position straight to rear wheel called, and how do you do it?
This photo of me describes the position of the wheels better
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I attempted to learn bunnys and manuals...
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Mine did this. Put the correct adapter on , new pads, fresh bleed, perfect. Not sure which if the fixes actually solved the problem, but it's not dramatic effort to do all of them anyway. Usually factory bleeds are quite bad?
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now I want a KFC, damn youIt does in a certain chicken like way. See Ali C. for further reference.
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that's fair enough, I shall take heed that advice, i was just wondering whether it was personal preference or whether the angle actually affects riding in a negative way, cheersPersonal preference.
Note to sound a dick, but. there is many topics on the subject and this post will undoubtedly open up the can of worms again.
I suggest you use the search function
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I've run your standard angle, in line with the stem, since I started. Feels fine, good for everything. Fancied a change, rolled my bars to a flipp angle (they're Tt highrise) and honestly, they felt better, and I could do just as well as I could normally with them at that angle. I'm not great at sidehops imo, would the angle effect my progress, or is it just a matter of getting used to it?
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I'm in West Midlands! Leamington spa actually
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the only reason I run a racingline is because I got it brand new for just over £70, it's nicely made, looks great, and has gallons if power. I would never buy one new though. Not worth it.They're nicely CNC'd, I'll give them that. However they still use the same pivot bolt design as Magura HS33s which will eventually undo itself. That's the first reason I chose the Tensile Tocco levers over the Racing Line, and secondly the price. Racing Line lever or the complete brake is obscene.
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My onza limey 320- finally after ages almost exactly how I want it-built from frame up.
I'm waiting on a new tr hub with to sprocket to put my matching tryall rim on it, so the rear wheel is temporary.
Spec:
Onza limey 320
Echo sl forks
Tryall 3D forged stem
TT high risers
Shimano br-m395 front disc, ice tech rotor
Racing line rear with red ano boltage
Heatsink yellows
Tryall hole laced to a tryall "h" hub with tryall stiky tyre front
Onza laced to onza with tryall stiky (temporary)
Onza cranks, tryall pedals
Echo sl ffw
Onza bash-- I have a jafbikes half ring im was going to put on but I bash the shit out of this one so I think it's be a waste to kill a nice bashring so soon.
SARS headset (great find!)
Pieces of foam with tape wrapped around bit of it for grips.
Shimano bb, need a new and better one but does the job
Rides great
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One one hand, the ground rims on a disc look out of place, on the other hand- well, that hand is busy down me trousers
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aye it matches my personalityThat's the smallest cutting mat I've ever seen!
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Pad: heatsink yellows
Time used on current rim: about a month
Grind: yes, harsh
Rim:onza
Brake: 2002 magura
Review: fap
9/10 unbelievably good
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Ahah the fact I found a tryall snail can on my workspace while trying to find glue for my model shows how much space I have....
You guys are giving me space envy, I own my three bedroom house and I have to do all my painting/modelling/computer stuff in a 43" square walk in cupboard! My painting area is about 7" x 15" and that includes the airbrush stand (compressor is on the shelf below fortunately
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My setup definitely is not as good
yes there's a cheeky Jaf bash chillin
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I'm loving the creatures- any weathering tips, I know very little, did the brown in the way id imagine dirt to travel on a car, windshield obviously no dirt where the wiper goes. Oil streaks the same, dry brushing. Little specs were done by "flicking" the brush off the side of the paint pot, creating the dots. Probably has a name. Scratches were done by painting the body silver, then yellow, then swiping very coarse sandpaper along it to rub away the yellow and crest the scratching (yes I know the f40 is carbon so there'd be no metal but artistic liscense bro)
I'm loving the creatures- any weathering tips, I know very little, did the brown in the way id imagine dirt to travel on a car, windshield obviously no dirt where the wiper goes. Oil streaks the same, dry brushing. Little specs were done by "flicking" the brush off the side of the paint pot, creating the dots. Probably has a name. Scratches were done by painting the body silver, then yellow, then swiping very coarse sandpaper along it to rub away the yellow and crest the scratching (yes I know the f40 is carbon so there'd be no metal but artistic liscense bro)
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damn... Should've got one off eBay cheap! AhaI've only got a cheap eBay compressor, it leaks but it does the job fine. Have two airbrushes hooked up to it. Really would like an Iwata Power Jet or Smart Jet to go with my Iwata airbrushes
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my compressed for my airbrush died on the spotI've got a photoetch set for the F40 too, probably won't be able to get it done until after I move places. I airbrush all my kits, can't get the finish with a can as you can with an airbrush.
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Made a model for the first time in years today- Tamiya Ferrari f40. Some slight paint inconsistencies on the exterior, so I thought, f**k it; the cars going to be a wreck. Used brown and black on a dry brush to create the streaks. Also used some pliars on the wing to complete the look. Anyone else got any scale models from their youth/ now? I forgot how entertaining it is.
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this. I honestly do t see the point of making a frame that won't fit their own parts- surely you'd make it so it only fitted onza hubs, so you have to come back to onza to replace the hub, therefore making them more money etcI love how onza hubs don't work with their frames
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For me, opening exam results and discovering that I've done seriously well is hard to par- and when a shipment of new bike parts arrives <3
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Rotor installed. Bedded very quickly- oddly enough, felt an obvious power difference- the bite is pretty damn good. Holds nicely- then again my old rotor had more problems than me ex girlfriend, so it could just be normal performance, but in comparison to my other rotor it feels much nicer.
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well it was going for 20 and if you've met my current front rotor, a piece of ham would be an improvement over that thing. To fronts and stuff ain't my thing, but I can still do them. And I like the way they look. Each to his own I guessIf you dont do much stuff to front do you really need a floating rotor? Seems quite unnecessary to be honest
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the fact you've had no issue fills me with more confidence than what others were suggesting, it's for a front brake too, and I use that less than my rear as to fronts and up to fronts ain't my thing. I guess I'll see how it goesnever had a single issue with mine, Danny's never broken one either
Trials move that I'm not sure of the name
in Trials Chat
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