onzamad

i was gonna post that lol

Mainly Into Rock/Heavy Metal/Other types of Metal below are a few examples: Metallica(not St anger, thats just shit) Ironmaiden Rob /White Zombie Papa Roach Atreyu Marilyn Manson Rammestein Trivium Then the proper oldies like: Deep Purple Dio Rainbow Black Sabbath Motorhead Jimi hendrix Sex Pistols Buzzcocks bit of Pink Floyd U2 Some Eighties Stuff like: Echo and the bunnymen The Cure (a bit) The mission (a bit) Sisters Of Mercy (a bit) The Damned they are just the ones i can think of, im sure there is many more.

my suggestion would be to start looking in other laces, just because the noise appears when you pedal, doesn't necessarily mean that it is to do with the drive train. Heres a couple of things i would check: Front and Rear wheel cones/bearings, Headset tightness/wear on the headset bearings, Best thing to do if you are really stumped is write down all of the similarities(in the spec etc) between the other bike you speak of and your current bike and then test each thing and rule it out if i doesn't make any difference, If that doesn't work and it still makes the noise then i cant hep soz, Hope that helped in some way

yeh the saracens are supposed to be good, but yeh if you can stretch your budget an extra 50 you can get an onza t-rex, which would be a great starter bike and having a reasonable spec it wont break every 5 mins(as long as your not a really heavy rough rider). it is also a good frame then that is worth being upgraded when you break something. i wouldn't spend a grand or somert though because IMO learning on a cheaper (thats a very loose term as 500 is still ALOT of money) bike makes you appreciate things alot better. If you didn't want to spend that much you could also get a spec 2 t-raptor, i have got a t-raptor, and people on here will say they always snap, but ive had mine for over 18 months and not had a problem with the frame (and im not one of the smoothest or lightest riders you have ever seen), i have then just had usual wear and tear issues on the components, but you would get that with trials. anyway, hope that helped

IMO, DO NOT! use the grip shift, they may LOOK stronger but they are actually really really w*nk! you would be better off using the roadie one, alot less hastle and will save you unnecessary bother in the furure. hope that helped.

Both of my HS33's were leaking so i took em to my LBS, they sent em off, i got 2 new levers, new master cylinder and 2 new sets of pads (they were only koolstops but ey, better than a kick in the teeth), so that is what i would do. i may be wrong but dont they have a 5 year leakproof gurantee or somert, if so you should be alright because it sounds like they are less than 5 year old.

thats not actually true, if they have to choose between 2 candidates who are academically equal they use the personnal statement to help them judge which one of the candidates is a better person. They also use the personnal statement to be able to judge how much somebody actually wants to come to uni and how they may perform. what i mean is if you do a sh*t statement they are gonna think that you are a lazy person who only performs at the last minitue and will not perform throughout the year, where as if you write a decent one they may look and say 'oh look at this, this person has done this, this and this, they are interested in this course because, this looks like they have done some research for this' etc. So the personnal statement is VERY important

Alot of people would disagree because they apparently 'snap like cheese' but IMO the t-raptor is a good buy for £400, thats the bike i have got, ive not had any problems with it and it has done alot of hard riding, and it has lasted, the bike is now nearly 2 years old, and still rides great.

yeh thats what i think, in our country that case wouldn't have gone to court, it was only on word of mouth from a dodgey to say the least source, there was no physical evidance to support any of the claims by gavin arvize or whoever he is. plus the fact that jackson paid him off with alot of money, but thats probably because he was black mailing him due to his past troubles with the police. i say hes now a free man and just leave him the f**k alone.

use a hammer and a small chissel, be very careful but you can actually turn the head of the bolt by hitting the bolt anticlockwise, using the chisel, it takes a while but it does work, i have had to do it before. if you are struggling use a small dot punch instead of the chisel, this should give you enough clearance, but if i was you the best way would probably to get the imperial equivelant of 5mm/5.5mm, thats either 13/64 for 5mm or 7/32 for 5.5mm, hope that helped.

well i wouldn't agree as ive got a t-raptor and ive had it since xmas 03 and its still fine, and ite been ridden alot, not as if its been in the garage for 17/18 monthes. although that t-raptor is looking rather flexy, unlucky with that.

these look very good, have some very good design features soz bout the size.... website

i always thought and have been told by many people that the reason why discs have holes in them if for the disipation of heat(i think thats how its spelt) as more heat reduces the performance of a brake, unless the brake is designed to run at a high temp, therefore, less ventilation, higher temp disc, less break performance. at least thats what ive been told.

no offence but its his fault at the end of the day, you shouldn't just rag things apart till they break and expect somebody else to sort it out for you. the bit with the threads going in your cranks, thats probably not your fauly as its dont it loads of people i know, but riping the threads yout of your bb shell, thats your own fault.] but if it helps, if supercycles dont fix it, take it to your LBS and they can re-tap the threads. ahhhh. i see people have alreayd said that, fair enough

try some of these: demon tweeks-dustcaps they look quite good, but at 11 quid inc vat i dont think so lol. :(

the reason why they keep changing it is that thats just how things are, just think, if thinngs didn't change because they were good at the time, we may never have some of the bikes we have today, for eg, the old montys, i bet for the day, the rode really well, but they still made change to keep making them better (ONLY AN EXAMPLE IM USING, I DONT NECESSARILY LIKE montys) and to make things beter they have to try different designs out, some work, some dont, thats how it goes.

i was just having a look on the koxx website and i found this: what does everybody think, i think it looks rather swish. How long has this been available, i say that, thats if it is yet. if it is does it ride well, how much does it cost etc? i dunno what other people think but it looks a bit like its been done on a computer, i dunno it may just be the comp im on?

it would be a bit better, the forces involved when braking are much larger than you could ever put on by yourself, so when you brake with your maggies on the front, there will be an element of forcing them away from the fork leg, where as if you have them behind the fork, that force will just be exerted on the fork, it is a very good idea IMO, i think it would alse reduce the amount of slipage, but only slightly, it still very much depends on what pad/rim setup you have.

yeh we had pro desktop at school,its ok, quite easy to get used to and use but if i had the patience i would tech myself autocad, its really good, just very difficult to use. good effort, is the 4.03 in inches because its certainly not mm or cm.

well on every cassete i hve tken apart and cleaned (cheap ones) there have been 3 allen bols on the back holding the min part of the cassette togeather, but the 2 smallest chainrings are not atached to the part held togeather by the allen bolts, they ar ejust held in place by compression from the lockring. so just whip the lock ring off, take the cassette off, remove the little allen screws and bobs your aunty, your cassette is apart. IMO though, if you want to go single speed ( i assume thaats your plan) use the 18t sprocket and the spacers) i would get the dmr single speed kit, ive got one and its great, looks good too.

i run 22:17 and for me thats perfect, i also have 175 cranks so i get that little more torque. at the end of the day its just personnal preferance, if you dont like the new setup, go back to the other one.

i still use the free mbuk one i got a yeaer ago or something, its still fine.

thats brilliant, i wish when i did my engineering coursework they let me make something like that, i had the ption of a hole punch, embossing tool or an injection moulding die, so i did the moulding die, it actually worked quitewell, especially because we were using a glue gun :- :P but yeh, very good.

ive seen that so many times, but that dont matter, i still cringe everytime i see it.... ow (Y)

Yeh i always wear a helmet when im out ridng, it not only gives mea bit more confidence, but it makes me different from the chavs doind wheelies or whatevery on their crappy bmx's (due to the public perception that trials bikes are bmx's without a seat) and anybody i know that i seenot wearing a helmet i always make a point of telling them, they never listen though.......(Y)