Krisboats

WE'VE ALREADY F****** TOLD YOU!!!!

Some people just need the attention Bigger avatars *** though. That'd be cool. Maybe then we'd be able to make out what people are doing in some of these images.

It'll fit, but be prepared to re-adjust your tensioner after your chain goes slack after every relatively decent amount of power goes through the pedals.

But it could be condensed, where as the quotes can be pretty much as long as someone wants them to be. Having the msn screennames and all sorts of shit, then having the useless conversation as well. Oakleys signature is huge, though quite good. but you can fit more in a picture and havign a size limit keeps it tidier than having as many lines of super size quote boxes as you like.

So i'm the only one who thinks a small picture would be tidier than the multipl stretched quote marks people use for msn conversations. Of which half the time the conversation is utter shit

Mark, they'd blatantly get removed... no swearing Something like that though, maybe a full bike shot, and slightly smaller in height/width. With a border too.

Pretty sure the gusset one is a fixed tensioner, without springs. In the same style as the On*One tensioners and freshproducts ones. Their pretty over-rated really. Sprung tensioners ARE better. Just taking links out of you chain though will improve your situation no-end and will remove the jumping chain completely.

Just wondering who thinks we should have images in our sigs. I'd quite like the idea of seeing a quick snapshot of everyones bikes at the bottom of their posts, bit more colour to liven the place up a bit. I reckon if they were kept to a smaller size as well it would be enough to be nice to look at but not over-imposing. Now most computer screens nowadays are 1024x768 and above, so a little picture of like 400-500 pixels wide, and say 60-80 pixels high isn't going to be obtrusive. Now i know the mods/admins won't like the idea of having loads of images that they would potentially have to keep an eye as it means more work. But it's be so much cooler!!! Anyways, put down what you think here.

Well the difference in your picture is that your mech (rear mech, rear derailleur, rear gear changing device) looks to be all bunched up which means the arm is tucked up into a point where its not tensioning the chain by pushing down on it physically, but by pushing down on it by trying to fold up into itslef. Taking links out will give it a better cahin tensioning ability. Okay step by step guide. Take the rear mech off the mech hanger. Look at the side where the thread is, the bit that goes into the mech hanger. At the bottom of the threaded section theres a little flat metal clip, thats roughly in the shape of a C Pry this little clip off by spinning it round to the bit where theres a gap and wedging the flat bladed screw driver into it. It will just slide off. Slide off the little plate with the screw attached and pull out the spring thats inside the mech body. Slide a couple of washers over to replace the parts you just took out like the washers on my mech bolt in this picture: Proceed to attach the mech back onto the hanger, Holding it in place and tightening it up until it wont move in any direction. Congratulations you've just "locked out" your mech

take the spring out the mech where the bolt is for the mech hanger. Literally spin the c clip round on the threaded side of the bolt, wedge it off with a flat bladed screwdriver. watch everything try and fly out everywhere. Take the spring out, stick a washer on the end then attach it back to the mech hanger. Stops it bouncing round and making noise... making the bike feel a lot smoother and quiter. Like this: And for making the mech easily adjustable and to stop it bouncing entirely, follow my old guide i made a while back. mech bodge guide

keep the mech for now, pinch the chain links together while its still all attached to get an idea of how many you'd need to take out. It looks like you could get away with taking 3-4 links (pairs of link, the bigger outer plate AND the smalller inner section) out. The mech will work fine as a tensioner for now, and you can look at a different tensioner later.

Over? No mate, my little cog is attached to the end of the mech arm and is pulling the chain "downwards". Its just REALLY REALLY tight EDIT: Probably a better angle for you. I've angle grinded the arm off so its out the way and just attached the first cog onto the arm. The chain isn't rubbing on the arm where the other cog used to be.... its just vry close to it... like this close > ||

Loioks very nice indeed. No images in sigs though

If you've got enough money to waste in the bike shop getting them to fit a chain then i'd recommend a rohloff. Here's my chainline. You want something like this in a perfect world, but i'm just lucky with this, you want to get between mine and simpson (probably a little more towards mine )

I'm not suprised really, you have so little chain around that cog. Take some links out EDIT: I'll get some pics of the chain line on my t-rex in a minute, using a mech with a single cog. Its good brb. Basically though, the theory of whats happening is you have so little chain around the rear cog that it actually just slides off it and jumps round a bit. Its like it has a brief moment where it isn't attached and then catches up again when it lands on the next link. Mine was doing it the other day when the chain was too slack, it only happens while peddling because the chain reaches a point as the cog turns where theres only 2 or 3 teeth holding the chain in place, this results in it jumping off.

Well the force of you braking suddenly is absorbed primarily by the backings, as they push against those prongs. With plastic backings the plastic can bend and get squashed and you won't notice a problem. But as soon as you introduce a backing thats stronger than the slave's prong is then its the prong that does the bending and the flexing... with it being metal, bending and flexing results in eventual snapping. So combine these stronger backings with extremely powerful brake compounds and the forces on the prongs become a lot greater, meaning it'll snap quicker.

My rimjams didn't snap the magura's. My joypads snapped a cylinder clip though. I think now brake pads are getting to a standard where they work excessively well the mounting system used isn't good enough for them. If deng were to sell the calipers seperately he'd make a fortune. I'd be willing to pay around £40-60 for a pair. Its not really chris's fault. I know for a fact he's been using his for ages now and he's not had any problems, he's not exactly a poor rider either... he's better than i am, and his are fine. Your using high grade pads on a low grade cast magura part, its like fitting a 203mm avid bb7 with an avid ultimate lever and sintered pads onto a pair of light guys then complaining when the fork legs snapped off. Its bound to happen as one is significantly better than the other. I know, it sucks, your bike was running fine. But its hardly chris's fault, and he's stopped selling them now too because of the problems. Its not a cool thing to happen, but its not the end of the world. I'm sure you'd prefer being at this extreme end of the spectrum having immense pads than being stuck with magura blacks .

But changing a loose bearing axle is a LOT easier and quicker. It takes 2-3 minutes MAX. I also agree with "dont yo...", go to a bmx shop, get a decent quality axle and you'll be right as rain for a while. By the time it breaks again you'll have improved so much you'll need to be looking at something stronger anyway.

Spitting in the pram would have seen them off for sure. Or running at them making a high pitch fire engine noise and swinging your arms around like a monkey. If their gonna be unpredictable, scare them by being even more so . Its like the whole non-disabled person parking in a disabled car park space. Get a microphone and make weird noise and shout out they aren't disabled and they nearly always get in the car and drive off. There was a thing on tele about it

Tell them you washed the cylinder out with water before sending . They won't know the difference.

Try looking in the options menu under the new topic button. I've often clicked something in there and its looked all weird next time i'm on.

LMAO at the first few posts. Yeah, replace the hub.... thats soooo much eaiser than replacing an axle Replacing an axle is easy peasy, undo the bolts... slide it out, watch all the bearings fall out, screw the cones and bolt into place on the new axle, slide it in, put new bearings in, tighten it up. Its literally a 2 minute task... and thats only if you have to run off and get some sticky tape after slicing your hand on a spanner or something. Its a piece of cake .

I play E-Frag office server, or a gun game one. Added Bongo, JTM and scopse last night as friends... guess i'll see you playing at some point soon.

Thats why i said generally Generally most people have the typical long, low and silver style bikes. They mostly ride in this way. Hence the use of the word generally. If i meant everyone i would have said everyone, the fact that i didn't takes into account the extremeties like yourself, riding short little bikes with a bmx streety style. Personally i try all sorts of things on rocks. I was trying to 180 sidehop dropgap between two rocks the other day, i can't see how thats not creative. Another one was trying to get a run up, bunnyhop onto my front wheel onto one rock and as the back end got high enough flick off the front wheel landing on two wheels on a rock slightly higher up. Basically, upping to front and using the momentum to flick off the front and go even further. Anyway, back to the point, you took my sentence out of context by isolating it like you did. I used it as a comparison of the size of a line between natural and street. In natural theres usually loads of rocks so to complete a line or section you have to keep going and its a lot longer. In street you usually only find like a maximum of like 5 different walls close enough to be linked in someway. The majority of the time you only find a wall of some description, or a gap. Hence, in comparison to natural, street is a case of hitting a wall till you make it..... i didn't specify how you had to hit it. I left that down to your creativity

QUOTE(deanie-b @ Apr 29 2007, 09:22 AM) ←Snap Close, but no cigar Its got horizontal dropouts, so its 116mm spaced, it also has a shoter distance between the 4 bolt mounts and the dropouts.... its a mod frame