Krisboats

I prefer the way the zenith rides, more bouncy and fun... but the zoo, i should imagine, is much lighter.

I personally wouldn't call that smooth though... i get what you mean, i used the same technique for grinding away uneccesary parts of my rear mech, however with me being a fussy b*****d i still didn't think it was smooth so i followed the griding session with a quick run over with the file, then with sandpaper, then couars wet and dry, the light wet and dry. Think i might just have a too-high expectation before i class something as being smooth

Quick simplae fact... no they dont

I wouldn't recommend "cleaning" a rim with a grinder, and comparing a rear rim and rim brake to disc brakes (which work purely because of a smooth rotor) is yet again, crap advice. Emory paper doesn't last as long as a grind... which if done correctly can last a couple of months. As opposed to the few hours/couple of days emory paper lasts. The grinder creates an uneven surface and to some extent "moves the metal around". What i mean is if you have an old rim and sit there grinding a part of it every few minutes, eventually there is a buiuld up of metal on the edge of the rim that is firmly attached to the rim... which i can only imagine is still attached due to the brief heat and sudden kinetic energy applied to it by the grinder. The grind will also provide a MUCH better braking surface than emory paper. In short, grinds are good but will eventually wear your rim away. Emory paper is time consuming, doesnt last long, and the performance increase isn't that great. People have been grinding rims for years and still do it, hardly something that would be done if it was that bad of an idea.

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Thats not good advice in the slightest. The majority of people grind their rims with an angle grinder and dont manage to cut straight through them. And the effect emory paper will give isn't deep enough to last an entire ride... so by the end of the day your brake will have gotten progressively worse. So in no way is using emory paper "doing it properly".

So essentially still being less corrosive

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I'm running a k710 on mine at the minute

Mine was a bit annoying a while ago, kept seeming to leak and i kept having to wind the tpa in. I took the lever blade off and got a pair of pliers and gently pulled the piston out, which came out rather easily. Gave the seals a bit of a wipe to take the thick grey gunk off them and stuck the rag inside the cylinder as well and twisted it round to take the gunk off the inside of the cylinder. Topped it up with water, stuck the piston and lever back on and its been fine since.... only had to adjust it briefly once due to pad wear. In answer to your actual question though, its the bit the lever bolt goes through that needs filing down as its too wide to fit into the 04 magura bodies. As far as i can see all you need to do is take the brass bushings out and carefully file it a little bit at a time on both sides till it fits into your magura lever. Job done.

You were half right, has leicester in it Wally, are your new pads any good? Don't suppose you could bring a second set along could you? my plazzie has worn at some god-aweful angle and has about 1mm left on it with a recent grind

Dunno, i snapped my second hand XC forks at the steerer tube and they replaced them with half price smart guys. Wont hurt to ask.

what time we all meeting 11.00-11.30 at crown court?

Not really anything topic related but are you aware that you can take your broken t-pro to supercycles and use it for a half price replacement policy. Basically they'll take half the RRP of your t-pro frame despite how you broke it and deduct that price off your new zona zip. Just thought you might like to know.

well on the Rusevelt Vs. Ash thing, rusevelt, stop being an idiot. Ash was right in saying they both ride completely differently, and he was also right in saying the top riders you named didn't in fact ride high bb bikes. If your so knowledgable you would have realised high bb's have been and gone with bottom bracket height this year at being being 20-35mm. Maybe ash's real world examples are a little unusual but they are correct in a stange way. So far it looks like your being the one who's acting childish and immature due to not getting your own way and being proved wrong. I think its time to stop it and say no more on the matter. Anyway, their both tough frames, i've only ridden the control but if the adamant is like any other high bb bike then its not something i would recommend for a long term investment. High bb is like marmite... you either love it or hate it.

That isn't a lot really, mines about 3-4mb/s... 5 year old panasonic mini DV. Main things you want to look for are quite a wide viewing angle... the bigger the viewing angle the more the camera can fit into the shot. This can be changed later via wide angle lenses should it be a problem. You'll also want the largest amount of OPTICAL zoom you can afford... many advertise 400 and 600x digital zoom, which sounds good... but in reality its crap, the picture is all grainy and hard to make out. Decent battery life is good as well for obvious reasons its practically impossible to charge a camera mid ride. A large tft screen is a bonus, but not essential. The same for effects, as these can be applied using video editors on the computer. A decent anti-shake is helpful though, maybe a night mode too for evening riding and generally better dark scenes (porn films ***!). A direct link to the pc via firewire cable (IEEE1394.... i think) is pretty much standard but just make sure as its a better way of transfering the film than usb as it has a higher transfer bandwidth.

Jake nearly always leaves a cocky reply instead of being helpful (sorry but you do).... he does have his moments though when he genuinely helps out. But yeah, you should really use the search, keeps useless topics at a minimum and theres hundreds of existing topics to read from.

I was thinking the same thing about local buildings round here, theres a place thats been abondoned for quite a while and when the weather gets better i'm going to get in contact and ask about cleaning it up and using it for a certain amount each month, i figured anything'd be better than him having it just sit there. But in order to make a proper go of it its going to need to be more versatile, especially at the lower coast of the uk where a lot of riders just won't be able to get to. Maybe have it set up with street sections and things, some quarter pipes and stuff, movable ramps maybe? This way you could attract a lot MORE custom by allowing skateboarders and bmx'ers in there. There was a local skatepark in leicester and i was talking to the owner fora while and he said it was good at first, but then nobody seemed to show up and he began losing money despite altering the layout and actively publicising the place. In the end he had to sell it and when a friend looked at the details it was amazing how he's managed to keep it going as long as he did, and this was with a normal skatepark. Don't get me wrong, its a great idea, however without considering more options for customers, it is one unlikely to succeed for any large duration of time. I always used to go to derby storm skatepark and that was like £6 for a half day and £10 for a full day... i certainly wouldn't mind paying that for something better for trials.

Todge usually parks near the tigers ground, theres an outdoor car park opposite the royal hospital. I think its free too.

Good choice. I'm tall as well and with a high bb bike i'm put into a very uncomfortable position on the bike that makes my feet feel like their not far off being level with my bars. I also find them less stable to just balance on, i feel like my head is so much higher that i'm having to physically concentrate on keeping the bike upright when on two wheels.... which is annoying. I like a little bit of bb rise though, the limey is almost perfect geometry for me, and the one i rode in supercycles was fantastic, easily the best bike i've ridden. When i get rid of my t-rex i'll be getting a limey i reckon.

We were going to meet at the train station i guess, or the crown court over the road and down a little street (no more than 2 minutes away). You sure your thinking of coming to leicester, its a fair distance away from london. Maybe about 2 hours by train. Your more than welcome to come along though EDIT: If you are thinking of coming and want more details on where the place is you can have my mobile number (07889133261) and my msn address... krisboats@hotmail.com.

Phone box gap is from the phone box to a nice marble bench in the middle of town...bench is about a foot high and a good distance from the phone box... its gotta be done.

Beau has to come to manage his gap from the roof to the wall while dodging cables, seeing as he pussied out last time due to "his brake not working" held my 16 stone ass all right . And theres the phone box to bench gap to nail too.

So is it not a definitive price? Because if you were going to go with that logic then current magura's would be: £29 for the lever £20 for the mounts £30 for a pair of slave cylinders £15 on 2 sets of pads, so really £7-8 a pair Total of £87.50 with prices of cables, barbs, cylinder washers... etc to be included. where as the entire brake is available for around £60. dunno, maybe deng'll be nice and reduce the price when bought complete.