poopipe

get a try-all stem, they're nearly 6 feet long. you'll need some new bars on account of them having a 1 inch clampy bit.

its a close call that is - maybe lightspeed could get them together?...

except for shinpads .... mmmm

i used to use a length of scafold on my old bmx (when they had big BBs) - handy for straightening bent 1pc cranks too

ah, rules. I am enlightened, thankyou

I'm sure this must have been asked before but i can't find it anywhere. what does UCI mean?

fair enough - can't get there first everytime :huh:

I'm either completely missing the point or I'm a genius so someone who knows what they're talking about might be able to let me know either way. An open system hydraulic brake has a reservoir on it with space for a bit of air at the top - presumably to allow for fluid expansion etc. This means that if you turn your bike upside down and pull the lever you get air on your tubes and you have to bleed it.. am i right so far? assuming I am... why don't they just put a seal that floats on top of the fluid inside the reservoir, that way when you turned it upside down the air wouldn't rise to the top of the reservoir even if you did pull the lever. I don't have a disc so I could well be way off the mark on this but it seems pretty logical to me. any thoughts?

I got some posh ufo ones from my sister last christmas. they're black with white and yellow bits and they've got little alien heads made of rubber on the back. they're dead comfy & flexible & light and seem pretty tough - they're basically still in perfect condition apart from the blood etc about £30 i think. the little rubber alien heads alone are worth the extra tenner.

I expect somebody's already seen this.... http://www.space-invaders.com/

those links don't work properly. OEM means original equipment manufacturer (or something to that effect) which usually means you dont get the pretty box and manual and thus save a few quid. normally you have to buy something else at the same time like a frame or the rest of the brake but not always a non bike related example is... OEM windows XP = £90 - comes in a plastic envelope with no instructions and you have to buy a CPU or a hardDisk at the same time full boxed version = £300 - comes in a box with some instructions I'd give them a call and find out what you get in the box if I were you

I agree with physio about bracing your ankle up - its like painkillers, ok as a temporary solution but you end up doing yourself more damage in the long run. He's right about re-educating your ankle as well - it was a good 2-3 years before I was fully recovered from a torn achilles tendon and a lot of that was spent learning to walk without a limp. If you're after protection from knocks etc. you ought to be able to find ankle guards for football in a sports shop - failing that, invest in some expensive football shinpads as these often have them built in. oh - and learn to roll when you hit the ground. A good crash should see you 15-20 feet from your bike when everything stops moving

I want that black bike badly. I'm tempted to turn my old mod into a chopper when I get a new one. With some of those bigass doublecrown suspension forks off a DH bike and some bars like that gay schwinn with the fire on it. Motorbike tyres are a good idea - anybody know what size would fit a 20"(not 19") wheel ? I read somewhere they're measured differently

the general concensus is don't then.. shame - they'd look groovy. I always found them lovely on BMX - not too steady in the wet I'll grant but shedloads more grip in the dry - plus you didn't suddenly slide out if you got your bike tilted right over while doing exciting flatlandy tricks. However, since I can't buy them I won't.

Is there such a thing? I hardly ever go near mud or grass (its mucky) so it seems silly to have knobbly tyres. The front is easy - I can get a bmx one but I cant find back ones fat enough anywhere.