poopipe

tell me about it... when i not at her beck and call i make pretty 3d models for game type things. i like my job, i made 2 submarines last week

my thoughts exactly - it doesnt seem worth forking out 80quid for an Eno when you can get one of those echo freehubs for 120quid so short of dropping FFW altogether waiting for the Tensile is the best plan. in the meantime, after several failures with glue and threadlock on my ACS i've taken to beating the absolute shit out of it when i tighten the lockring up (masonary nail + big hammer :( ), i think ive managed to bend the lockring enough to keep it in place cos i was out for hours today and it didnt skip or lose a single bearing.

its very pretty isnt it.. what were you riding before and how does it compare ? I'm not sure how very short + massive BB rise would feel

just to add to the other 2 comments that weren't about what it looks like CLS pythons are very long. if you're less than 5'8" you won't be able to reach the bars. I dont think theres a short python for 2006. There is a short team for 2006 so that might make the decision easier.

2 questions. 1: did you tell him you'd done that before he bought it 2: is that a decade to disaster about halfway through the video cos if it is you deserve a dirty great biscuit

bunnyhops are groovy unless you're trying to land on something small or don't have space for a run-up. you get a lot more control over where you're going if you pedal up stuff and i find i can get a lot more height in tighter spaces.

so... are those of us without silly strong one piece CNC BBs (t-pro owners) going be able to cram one of these hubs in without the frame breaking or do i just go out and buy a profile now?

presumably, if you take the snail cams away you go back to a 110mm spacing. or am i being dim?

if its right at the bottom of your neck, in the middle it could be because your stem/bars are too low so you have to tilt your head a long way back to see where you're going - it happened to me when i had a try-all stem with flat bars on my old mod. If it's that, you want to try and raise your shoulders somehow - tilting your bars back a bit might help or if you can get any spacers under your stem try slapping some in. you might find you just get used to it - i used to get really sore in my lower back when i first started riding trials but when i'd developed some muscle it went away.

i reckon the python could beat the gu up cos its got a more manly name :blink:

julien from trashzen cos he lets me drink his water and always has tools.

if you've got short arms you might find a python a bit of a struggle. ive got a t-pro and when i had a go on an 04 python it felt super long (i'm about 6ft) - might be ok with a higher stem. i think they do a short echo team, there was a short 05 python but i dont think theres a short 06 one. i like the echo myself - its got a pretty headtube junction and a bashguard

tell you what... everyone send me 3quid , ill buy one, test it and let you all know my findings - ill even pay for my own wheelbuild..

I've had the same brake for a few months now, when I first got it it was a bit poo and everyone told me to ride down hills and blip the brake on and off. I did that for few days and it started to work quite well. I read somewhere that holding the brake halfway on and riding down hills for too long can cause the pads to glaze over which makes them cack so i tried to avoid that.

i asked the nice man at tarty to make me a t-pro frame with all the bits from a t-mag so i got the front disc n stuff. It had to be ordered in so there was a bit of a wait but not too bad and i saved a fair bit of cash on organising a front disc later on. if you're happy with a maggy on the front its worth getting the t-pro as standard and saving the extra money towards some lighter forks or a fancy freewheel.

it cant do any harm really can it? - I'm using an inner tube covered in gaffertape at the moment - theres no reason why foam covered in gaffertape wouldnt work. i like gaffertape, im trying to find more places to put it

damn right. the only things wrong with them are the 2 bolt clamp and the fact they take silly sized bars (28.6mm). If you're trying to reduce weight on the front end you probably want to be looking at replacing the steel forks with some ally ones

it must be all the pies ;)

er - i think julien calls them static hops - he taught me to do it on thursday front wheel on wall (at least a couple of feet high), back foot next to wall get yourself balanced move your weight back a bit, give it a good pedal kick and lean forwards while kicking (this stops you going backwards) compress your legs when you're on the wall to stay on the back wheel - straight legs means the bikes momentum carries you forwards. be prepared for a sore arse and possibly some rim/rotor damage

theres a world of difference between use and abuse B) i like the little front wheel transfer over the rail - that was lovely

i think you're supposed to replace those fancy XC lids if you crash - it probably says in the instructions, personally i wouldn't trust it again

yup - but the FFW is attached to the crank arm not the BB so it has to be flipped over. attaching it to the BB would mean it was the right way up but there's probably a very good reason for not doing that

ta still havent decided to buy one yet, gonna try a tensile freewheel out before i abandon ffw altogether

actually it was from some bmx shop - i think they were marginally cheaper, wish i could remember which one it was now.. so its the mini then.. anyone know whats different about the SS version.

there's about 4 or 5 different profile cassette hubs available and theres not much to choose between them on price so which is the one to get? are the SS ones better ? are the mini ones better? are the SS minis better than that? hypothetically this is going on a mod - if i suddenly decide to spend 170quid on a hub