Monkey

I can see that the glyphs are the same for "bikes" but do the others mean "select" and "tarty" or do they just represent the sounds (out of idle curiosity)

I went at 50mph, down a long hill in Nottingham called Arnold Lane. It was on a mountain bike with slicks. I remember it because it was only possible by pedalling as fast as I could to see what speed I could manage and because cars were still zooming past me even at that speed, so the sidewinds were very dodgy indeed.

My guess, if your laptop is connected with a cable to the pc and the pc goes to the outside world through usb or another network card: Network connection sharing is not enabled on the pc.

I've seen this: http://www.theinquirer.net/?article=31281 and I have thought that the program "Remove On Reboot" available from here: http://www.freedownloadscenter.com/Shell_a..._Extension.html might be useful in doing this. That aside, when the update appeared as "Windows Genuine Advantage Update" I did tell it not to install because I knew what it was and also not to remind me to install it again. Smartarse, eh?

The best webcam you can get (mind you, you do pay for it...) is this one, and not just in my opinion. Obviously there are better cameras you can get to attach to a PC with zoom lenses and stuff, but if you don't want to go too far, this is it. It might be too much for some anyway. From Amazon it's fifty quid, but I've seen it in Staples for eighty. Philips SPC 900NC Pixel Plus 1.3 MP Webcam for PC and Notebook There are various websites around that tell you about using the Philips Toucam Pro II for astronomy. This is the updated version (newer CCD and funny mounting system which I still don't quite get).

RDRAM IS more expensive. It isn't DDR memory - they are RIMMs rather that DIMMs - and has different numbers of pins and different recesses because it's a completely different type of memory (DDR won't fit). Try EBay Items matching ( rdram ) if you haven't already. On the computers I've had with RDRAM you need to add it in pairs and any empty slots need to be filled with a pair of CRIMMS (just zero memory circuit boards so that everything is filled - they are cheaper but you may already have a pair inside). CPU-Z will tell you what speed the memory is. I've had a quick look at Dimension 8250 and the spec seems like one you want to keep...

for those of you that are truly ancient or would like to try something old but quality, try Frontier:Elite 2 which you can get from here: http://www.sharoma.com/frontierverse/game.htm Download the cracked version. Before anyone canes me for piracy or other nasty words this is hosted by one of the original authors of the game they are now letting it go for free. It has to be said that it can sometimes be a bit awkward to get it to work in Windows XP but there is a way. Let me know if you're interested in knowing how, although I think it is in those pages somewhere. It involves changing a line in autoexec.nt if I remember rightly.

I like Rescue from Space Invaders and while I was looking on Google for the address to point at I came across a version someone has made with better graphics, which is what I intend to try right now... EDIT: It's some graphics that you replace the original game graphics with. I'll try them soon anyway. Something small but strangely time consuming is ESCAPE! which I can never seem to play much past 25 seconds, although if you have a slower computer I think you'd last longer.

We drive on that side because the Romans did. In chariots, of course. I've heard that thing about jousting (and even about shaking hands with the fighting hand when passing in the road) before. It predates that by quite a while. During the French revolution the French decided somehow that they would walk on the opposite side of the road to support the revolution. Or something. I remember reading about it but not the details. Then Napoleon came along, invaded a load of countries and exported it. Later on Hitler came along and exported it some as well. The Czechs had to change from driving on one side to driving on the other because Germany was given Czechoslovakia to keep them quiet. Later on, just for a laugh (you there Janson?) the Swedes decided to change over too because they didn't have anything better to do. Over a weekend. That must have been fun. I think that happened after the war but can't be bothered to look right now exactly when. Of course, Napoleon had his arse whipped by the British of the time so there was no impetus to change. He was to blame for decimals too. Still, be thankful the decimal clock (another revolutionary invention) never caught on. I can just imagine people thinking up conversion ratios between European and UK time, apart from any time difference. In answer to the original question, we just can't be bothered with this new-fangled driving on the other side stuff. As to the brakes, I just don't know. The brake was on the right hand on penny farthings because it's the stronger hand for most people. And there wasn't a back brake. That would make sense (but it's something I just thought up, not something I read for a change). Sorry if that was boring, but I thought I'd stick my oar in. We don't do things differently, you do

In the dim and distant past when people were still riding penny farthings the safety bicycle got invented. At the time, the cranks were forced to turn by the wheels and weren't "free" (as in "if the wheels turn, the pedals turn and if the pedals turn the wheels turn"). They were fixed. Then someone invented the freewheel, where the wheel was free to rotate without affecting the pedals at all and people tired of having their ankles and calves slapped by pedals rejoiced and had a party by backpedalling a lot and enjoying going nowhere. Moving on a few years, someone else invented the multiple freewheel and the derailleur so they could have lots of gears and never have to stand on their pedals again. Still all the pawls and balls were in the freewheel which wasn't doing anything for the strength of the wheel because the wheel bearings were about halfway across to the non drive side (EDIT: axles broke a lot). Also, some of the removers you had to use were really stupid. If you've ever tried to use a four prong remover on an ACS Claw you'll know what I mean. There was even one with two prongs (Regina and I think also Suntour). I am really old so I know these things. So Shimano (I think it was them) moved the pawls and balls onto a unit integrated into the hub, which allowed the wheel bearings to move to the end of the axle. It also meant that unless you broke it, you only needed to change the teeth part of the freewheel. So the "teeth part of the freewheel" became a cassette and the hub became a freehub. That's explained the freewheel/freehub. Fixed refers to the inability to freewheel. Sometimes when a freehub breaks you end up with a fixed wheel. Or sometimes with a hub that freewheels in both directions . Neither is useful, but at least fixed wheel can get you home, if painfully. A fixed rear hub is usually combined with a front freewheel in mod trials. Some people do it with stock. Sometimes you get fixed hubs where a cassette or cog can slide on before being fastened with a lockring (Koxx?). EDIT: The thread is the same for screwing on a fixed sprocket and for a freewheel. It's only a fixed wheel if you make it one. The important thing is that your hub isn't a freehub. I hope that was clear enough As to what would be better you've given us no information about the bike it's for or if you've already got some components in mind.

A wether is a castrated ram. :closedeyes:

Don't get me wrong, I'm not claiming credit for writing that page. I did once work out a formula to stick in a spreadsheet to work out all combinations before coming across this page, which does it all for me AND throws away the irrelevant combinations. Chains stretch over time and I would say that if it was visibly droopy it was time to replace it. Use 1/8" chain with bushes. I believe they would be the most durable. Otherwise a 1/8" Kool chain would do, and I don't think chains stretch that quickly.

For a given length of chain and a certain gear combination there is only one chainstay length that will be perfect :sleeping: . You can either find out if you have the right frame for it, or if you are prepared to go for a slightly different combination (assuming someone makes the chainring/sprocket/freewheel you need) you can find out what you would need to use by entering your chainstay/chainring/sprocket information on this web page. Change the tyre size if you want to, but it's only used for the gear inches calculation. It's best to assume a new chain, because I'm not sure what you'd need to enter in the chain stretch bit. You'd end up with more options if you allowed a half link, but you'd also end up needing a half link I changed my mountainbike to singlespeed before posting this, and the chain is just right for me... 44T chainring, 17T sprocket, 42.5cm chainstay. The only problem I really had was lining up the ring with the sprocket. DISCLAIMER B) : It worked for me. I don't see why it shouldn't work for you, but I'm not going to get blamed for it... :)

Ooooh. It's just like biketrials B) . Only without the bikes :sleeping: .

That link didn't work for me so I searched a bit, and ended up here: http://urban.zen.praktik.ru/albums/DvinskC...LeParkour_1.wmv and here: http://urban.zen.praktik.ru/albums/Daugavp...pils_2005_1.wmv

It's a perfectly standard freewheel thread, clockwise to tighten, anticlockwise to loosen (with difficulty because pedalling along tightens it). With Claws freewheels the procedure is to unscrew the lockring if you haven't already (anticlockwise thread there), remove and throw away pawls, balls, springs and any other crap that might fall out. you are left with a - sort of - square shaped lump that can be clamped in a vice (tight enough to hold it in place, not so tight it crushes the crank) - then, with tenderness and finesse.... ....smack the crank hard with a rubber hammer several times at the pedal end. In the right direction. Pedalling backwards, if you imagine it's still on the bike. Hopefully it'll be something similar with Shimano freewheels.

If you're serious I suggest you plan a holiday to the Czech Republic in the summertime. I go fairly often, although not to Prague, and I did once ask to see trials bikes at a shop, only to be told that there weren't any to see in the winter - or something to that effect, perhaps because they don't sell much at that time of year. Ryanair to Brno is good. The language is a b*****d though.

The way tyres are measured (the English system) is to start from the outside and measure inwards. This is why bikes with 20"x2.4" tyres have the same diameter as 20"x2.5" (and 20"x1 3/8" if you like), and also why they can't fit on each others rims. Historically if you think about it, 26"x1 3/8" tyres won't fit on a rim for mountainbike or 26"x1.75". If all that made sense, you can see why Monty can get away with a 25" rim (use monstrously tall tyres) and that to get away with a 24" mountainbike sized rim you would need something like 26"x4" tyres... :P :( In other words, a tractor in the form of a bicycle. I should mention that the French (continental?) system is based on the size of the rim. That's why tyres marked 700x52 are called 29" tyres for mountainbiking purposes. What would you call a 29" wheeled trials bike... anyone? P.S. If I find out I'm making this up, I'll be quite embarrassed.

I use this

If you can work THIS out, it's meant to calculate the ring and sprocket sizes you need to use a particular chainstay length. If you get a gear two or three inches different to your usual it probably won't be that noticeable. I haven't tried this out, although I hope to soon. As for chain stretch, it's possible to buy 1/8" bushed chains (which would stretch a lot more slowly and not weigh significantly more) and 1/8" chainrings and sprockets (same again) if you're serious. If you're just experimenting you'll either get bored and go back to the previous setup fairly quickly or get serious.

:P Nah, man. Penny a minute all the time, or five for mobiles :huh: ... Telediscount

I don't know it... it must sound nicer than it translates: ======================= Watch out we're injured we have a man, his name is Jean Michelle His leg is broken With a young girl whose name is Giselle (it's so beautiful) They climbed a tree to make love He went into the missionary position (it's popular) He fell His leg is broken Watch out =================== Should I apologise for a bad translation? It's aproximately right. I listen to a fair bit of French music myself, and it always loses in translation. Pity.

Maybe not very politically correct, but: Two in one... I thought rhyming dollar and Hezbollah was quite cute.

There are way too many targets these days... I'll add anything by Robbie Williams or Red Hot Chilli Peppers. Study those lyrics, I dare you (Y) They are nice enough to listen to, though. EDIT: Sometimes

I just checked, that is the code for Ghana. I never answer any of these mails,but I do enjoy reading about people who wind them up over massive lengths of time... Check out the University of Nigeria where they learn their trade :(" , then Bait A Mugu and The 419 Eater where merciless Westerners take the piss. Definitely do not try this at home, kids...