Tensile Freewheel/

[Danny Kearns]

Yo. Now i have a tensile freewheel on my onza muscleman cranks. Got some echo one's on the way so im need the freewheel off that.

Now. The idiot who had the bike before me, put the freewheel on without the spacer which gives it enough room to fit the tool in too loosen the freewheel to get it off.

So i took it lbs to see what they thought but couldn't do nothing. So i have took it all apart so all im left with is the main body of the freewheel on the crank.

My sisters Boyfriend is a fully qulaified car mechanic who works at a car garage with loads and loads of power tools and blow tourches and vices etc.

So, he said the best way he can think of is whack it in a vice by the body, clamp it, then whack the crank arm with a hammer or put a big 8ft scafold pole on the end and turn it.

Can you guys reccomend any other better ways ?

The freewheel NEEDS to work again after.

Thanks

Danny.

[matt rushton]

Screwdriver in the tabs and knock it round with a hammer??

[Danny Kearns]

Don't you reckon it'l be too tight ?

Danny.

[matt rushton]

Don't you reckon it'l be too tight ?

Danny.

Depends on how tight it wa put on, which can't be that tight if the spacer hasnt been used because the bb tool woulndn't be able to tighten it up fully. Worth a try.

[hugh_b]

i use an air driven impact wrench on mine with an ice tools bb tool on the end (socket style fitting). Put your crank in the vice and put the tool in ontop, keep the impact wrench going until it comes loose. Works a treat.

[basher]

Had this problem before, will right in a min how i did it.

right, well if your not bothered about the crank, use a copeing saw make it so the blade is inside the taper.

Cut into the taper towards the freewheel as close as you dare, do this twice you need to do this so you are able to take the chunk out youve cut. then you should be able to squeeze using plyers or something it toghether so the freewheel will slide off. You may need to grind/cut the crank arm off so your just leaveing the freewheel and the metal inside it.

Edited December 16, 2007 by basher

[AdamR28]

So, he said the best way he can think of is whack it in a vice by the body, clamp it, then whack the crank arm with a hammer or put a big 8ft scafold pole on the end and turn it.

Although 3-4ft should do it.

[Si-man]

removed freewheels so many times with this method.

Get the freewheel removal tool

Stick it on freewheel.

Threaded bar

nuts and washers

Sandwich the tool to the freewheel

Stick tool end into the vice and clamp it tight.

4ft piece of bar over end of crank arm, lean on it slightly, freewheel will undo.

Easy peasy, managed to do that in the 5 mins before i started work, baring in mind had to chop the threaded bar down and grind the ends so the nuts would go on

[Bionic Balls]

tensile is the one with the bb tool fitting right? steve got his eno machined out to take a bb tool...and it screwed onto the crank really far meaning that only about 1mm of the "spline" grooves fitted into the bb tool...

still unscrewed fine

[Al_Fel]

Depends on how tight it wa put on, which can't be that tight if the spacer hasnt been used because the bb tool woulndn't be able to tighten it up fully. Worth a try.

When you pedal it tightens up a hell of a lot more than you could tighten it up with the bb tool. Think about it.

[monkeymoped]

after going through 2 acs freewheels in 2 months i've changed to a tensile one and it is brilliant

[steve@banbury-trials]

Had this problem before, will right in a min how i did it.

right, well if your not bothered about the crank, use a copeing saw make it so the blade is inside the taper.

Cut into the taper towards the freewheel as close as you dare, do this twice you need to do this so you are able to take the chunk out youve cut. then you should be able to squeeze using plyers or something it toghether so the freewheel will slide off. You may need to grind/cut the crank arm off so your just leaveing the freewheel and the metal inside it.

i had to use that exact method to get my try-all freewheel of so i could get at the bashring.

but usually i put the crank in the freezer for a while,have a cup of coffee,get it out of the freezer and poor boiling water from the kettle onto the inside of the freewheel by the splines for the bb and use the remover tool to spin the freewheel off.hopefully that made some sence lol.

steve

[Mark W]

I used to run the first Tensile proto I got without a spacer, and it was super tight like that too, but just locking the BB tool in with a threaded bar and nuts (and spacers, obviously) meant that it held it in place which I clamped the arm in a vice and used a long, long bar on the end of my adjustable spanner which went onto the BB tool.

Try it, it worked for me.

[basher]

I used to run the first Tensile proto I got without a spacer, and it was super tight like that too, but just locking the BB tool in with a threaded bar and nuts (and spacers, obviously) meant that it held it in place which I clamped the arm in a vice and used a long, long bar on the end of my adjustable spanner which went onto the BB tool.

Try it, it worked for me.

problem is that the freewheel is on so far that it means a bb tool cant fit on it to get it off.

[Token]

I'd angle grind the body of the freewheel so it has two flat edges on it, opposing sides, put it in a vice and then lever the crank off. Then I'd pick the phone up, call Supercylces and ask them to send you a new freewheel body.

[Mark W]

problem is that the freewheel is on so far that it means a bb tool cant fit on it to get it off.

There's gotta be some room though, 'cos it overhangs the central shaft from the crank arm's threaded part? You only need a tiny, tiny bit. If your BB tool is balls, you can also get other ones. The RaceFace ISIS BB extractor one was f**king rad...

[Danny Kearns]

No mark mate. There is actually NO roomwhat so ever

Danny.