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Tnn Engineering 09 Control 8.33kg 18.51lbs


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Frame and fork

Frame 09 Echo control silver short w/internal hosing

Fork Echo SL

Front wheel

Front hub Trialtech (lightened)

Front rim Trilatech (lightened)

DT spokes Double butted alloy nipples

Clear packing tape rim tape

2.2" mountain king supersonic

Fly weight Maxxis tube

Rear wheel

Rear hub Chris King ISO alum freewheel HD axle (lightened washer)

Rear rim Trialtech (lightened)

DT spokes Double butted alloy nipples

Clear packing tape rim tape

2.4" Rubber Queen

ultra lite Maxxis tube

Front brake

Front brake Hope carbon ti 180 w/ashima rotor

All bolts ti and alum

Rear brake

Rear brake Magura HS33 w/echo lever (lightened), echo clamps (lightened) TNN carbon fiber booster "preloaded" Prototype TNN LHM pads.

All bolts ti and alum.

Drivetrain

Middleburn 170mm cranks (lightened)

TNN Engineering 16t Ultra comp integrated bashring "40g"

Reset ti Bottom Bracket

14t surly rear cog (lightened)

Monty alum bb bolts(lightened)

KMC narrow chain.

DMR V12 mag Ti pedals (Lightened)

Steering

Try all carbon bars

Trialtech stem (lightened)

Carbon top cap w/alloy bolt

Carbon spacers

Chris King headset

BBB foam grips

All ti bolts

Total weight 8.33kgs

The bike rides really well though it is a little flexy but better than some heavier frames I've had. Since building a light bike everything is MUCH easier. Especially pinch flats. So for day to day street riding i run a try all front and a maxxis 2.5 front minion on the rear (trimmed knobs) taking the weight to 8.94kg.

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Nice, when is the 16t bash being released :)

At 40g that has to be titanium, any guess on a price as yet :wub:

Im guessing you have shaved down the thickness of the pedal ends of the burns?

Tarty's will have the 16t Alumec 89 Aluminum bashrings (Hard anodized) in stock soon and the steel one too.

Or if it suits you better Tim at expressivebikes.com in Australia Has them in stock now.

You got it 2mm shaved of the inside of the crank. 170mm w/lock ring 394grams.

Whats with the blue ink writing on the inside of the left middleburn crank? Nice rig, but doesn't quite beat the tartybikes superlight weight 09 Control project.

Tarty's bike has a much lighter rear tire/rim and a magura on the front so it's quite differently.

Edited by Le @ Tnn Engineering
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Tarty's will have the 16t Alumec 89 Aluminum bashrings (Hard anodized) in stock soon and the steel one too.

I think I love you :D

Thought the 40g weight seemed a touch low for ti as the middleburn 16t ti full bash is 105g, that will save me another chunk of weight (when I can justify the £1 per gram cost :D ).

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I think your bike is sexy as F@k . I want to internally route my cables on my GU. Has any one routed the front cable through the stirrer tube? did you have any problems?

I have an et24 with the cable routed through the steerer of a set of echo controls. You will need one of these and depending on the forks that you are running you may need to ground down the star nut so that it fits down the head tube.

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A question about the booster if you will.

Im assuming you have relieved the brake clamps around the bolt hole in order to sandwich the carbon plate, have you found that this is stiffer than the conventional tube and spacer arrangement?

I guess that it will give less resistance to torsional loads along the length of the chainstay but give more resistance to the chainstays spreading? Interested in doing that on mine if it does make it a touch stiffer :)

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I have an et24 with the cable routed through the steerer of a set of echo controls. You will need one of these and depending on the forks that you are running you may need to ground down the star nut so that it fits down the head tube.

My tyre is quite tight in the top of the fork. but it should be OK just hoping the magura cable will bend nicely.

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IMG_0235.JPG

A question about the booster if you will.

Im assuming you have relieved the brake clamps around the bolt hole in order to sandwich the carbon plate, have you found that this is stiffer than the conventional tube and spacer arrangement?

I guess that it will give less resistance to torsional loads along the length of the chainstay but give more resistance to the chainstays spreading? Interested in doing that on mine if it does make it a touch stiffer :)

I did a very similar thing ages ago with a file, some standard magura clams and a 2-bolt RB booster. Didn't feel noticeably different at the lever, but it's a hel of a lot neater and also less force on the bolts/threads in the frame.

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IMG_0235.JPG

A question about the booster if you will.

Im assuming you have relieved the brake clamps around the bolt hole in order to sandwich the carbon plate, have you found that this is stiffer than the conventional tube and spacer arrangement?

I guess that it will give less resistance to torsional loads along the length of the chainstay but give more resistance to the chainstays spreading? Interested in doing that on mine if it does make it a touch stiffer :)

Yeah the mounts have been machined down to suit the carbon booster. To be perfectly honest I can't feel much difference in stiffness compared with the std tube spacer and longer bolt set up. But in theory it's the best place to have it (in line with the center line of the slave cylinders.) This gets rid of any bolt flex due to long bolts and spacers. But I recon it's much better than the old skool booster set up and does have it's advantages. Less weight,less parts,easier to set up and cleaner overall look.

The booster is pretty useless it's to light (28g) and the quality of carbon isn't high enough to do a really good job. But I've designed a tool (kinda like a BIG pair of over sized reversed pliers) to preload the booster outwards before clamping it in place. So the booster is under constant tension i found this made the biggest difference by far. The reason it works so well is it removes the initial flex out of the booster and gets the booster into it's stronger/stiffer range. Up there for thinking!

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