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The New Road Bike Thread :)


Sam-Addy A3

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How flat is your route Jardo? I find that I ride comfortably on the flat at somewhere between 18-22mph depending on wind, but around my 6.8m training loop, my fastest time so far is 3 times round in an hour and one minute, clocked an average speed of just under 19mph. I tend to do it twice one way, then once the other, although I'm gonna work on doing it twice one way twice the other as it's a nice varied route with plenty of interval training opportunities. Beats riding along a flat A road for 20 miles, turning around then coming right back, although I do spend about 30+ mins a day on my turbo at the moment doing interval training :)

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How flat is your route Jardo? I find that I ride comfortably on the flat at somewhere between 18-22mph depending on wind, but around my 6.8m training loop, my fastest time so far is 3 times round in an hour and one minute, clocked an average speed of just under 19mph. I tend to do it twice one way, then once the other, although I'm gonna work on doing it twice one way twice the other as it's a nice varied route with plenty of interval training opportunities. Beats riding along a flat A road for 20 miles, turning around then coming right back, although I do spend about 30+ mins a day on my turbo at the moment doing interval training :)

Thats a very respectable speed riding on your own (Y)

Best Ive done when actively trying is around 20.5 average over 20 miles.

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Need some help chaps.

Want to dig my Hybrid out the shed and start commuting to work on her again.

post-4726-1245017031_thumb.jpg

Basically she's got 700cc wheels which are fine except they don't really handle the potholed roads around here too well so would prefer a smaller wheel with a larger slick tyre. Also I'll be running discs front and rear so any suggestions as to wheels please? I don't want to spend alot...

Edited by Mr Plod
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Personally i'd try and stick with the 700 wheels. Although at first they may be a bit wobbly once you get used to them they will be a great benifit. Could always go down the line of a wider profile tyre, something like a 700 x 35c, looks like your running a 28c at the mo, but that is all dependant on tyre clearance. I would recommend continental, have a look on there website as they have an extremely vast range. With regards to wheels your best bet will probably be some second hand ones from ebay, that way you can still get a decent set but at a more realistic price. Any Mavic, Shimano, DT Swiss, Campag gear will be spot on.

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Personally i'd try and stick with the 700 wheels. Although at first they may be a bit wobbly once you get used to them they will be a great benifit. Could always go down the line of a wider profile tyre, something like a 700 x 35c, looks like your running a 28c at the mo, but that is all dependant on tyre clearance. I would recommend continental, have a look on there website as they have an extremely vast range. With regards to wheels your best bet will probably be some second hand ones from ebay, that way you can still get a decent set but at a more realistic price. Any Mavic, Shimano, DT Swiss, Campag gear will be spot on.

What sort of size would you recommend to down scale? My mates dad chose had a decent Hybrid and either had 26" or 24" with discs and it looked and rode really well.

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26" at the smallest. The whole concept behind smaller wheels is to enable you to navigate through rough terrain easier, there's no need for this in what i would assume your commute would be hence why i would recommend sticking to 700. 90% of the specific hybrid bikes out there are 700c, but what we have been selling alot of lately are mountain bikes which the customer has then adapted to become more of a hybrid (slick tyers, bar ends ect..). Also personally speaking i think disk brakes are a bit too powerful for hybrid bikes, sure there good when your tearing down a hill at 40mph and your tyers and rims are getting caped in mud which would pretty much make any sort of rim brake useless, but for stopping at a set of traffic lights the kind of brakes you have on there at the moment are about right.

Another problem you may also come accross is finding some 26" rims/tyers narrow enough to sit inside your existing frame and fork set-up. The only 'decent' hybrid i know of that is 26" is the Carrera Subway, which also comes with disk brakes, sounds alot like the one you mentioned in your post. This one by any chance?

Obviously all the info i'm giving you, is just information, and if you feel more comfortable then by all means go for a smaller wheel, but honestly, i don't see anything much wrong with the bike as it is currently...

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26" at the smallest. The whole concept behind smaller wheels is to enable you to navigate through rough terrain easier

lol.

And don't go for campag, 95% of their wheels have campag freehub bodies which will only take a campag cassette, which won't work too well with your shimano stuff...

Eric, 26" will be fine, almost...

My mtbs wheels are actually taller than my 700c road wheels, so crank strike will be no problem, it'll effectively be the same bike, but with much more squish, at least compared to a thinner tyre, cos by the time you've hit the rim on a 700c wheel, you'd still have quite a bit more distance, so you won't pinch etc. A set of 1.9 (i'm sure they come in 1.6 and 1.9) conti sport contacts will be awesome, very slick but have a tiny bit of a groove on them... Nice and quick.

There's nowt wrong with discs if you know how to ride a bike, given you ride trials i'd say you know how to use your fingers. Obviously they're a lot more powerful than rim brakes but you're not exactly gonna send yourself over the bars.

Straighten up those bar ends and get rid of the wheel reflectors!

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Okay, maybe not the whole concept, but everyone with half a brain knows that MTB evolved from cyclocross, as smaller wheels made it easier?... And you really think there's going to be clearance in that frame and fork for 26"?

I take that back, continental do a 26" UltraGatorskin =/ Trying to find a rim to accommodate a 1.2 tyre may be a problem though...

And what on earth do you mean they are taller? The only way that's possible is if your running some beastly tyre which clearly isnt an option on this frame and fork?!

Edited by Robwalker
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Okay, maybe not the whole concept, but everyone with half a brain knows that MTB evolved from cyclocross, as smaller wheels made it easier?... And you really think there's going to be clearance in that frame and fork for 26"?

No, smaller wheels are tougher, the bigger the wheel, the better it rolls, and the better it'll roll over big holes. Hence 29ers, 69ers.

Given that frames and forks generally taper, hopefully it'll pull it down just enough to put a 1.6 in there, which isn't too wide, maybe i was being a bit ambitious with the 1.9 but a 1.6 will be an improvement anyway.

I take that back, continental do a 26" UltraGatorskin =/ Trying to find a rim to accommodate a 1.2 tyre may be a problem though...

I have had a 1" gatorskin on a halo combat, no problem.

And what on earth do you mean they are taller? The only way that's possible is if your running some beastly tyre which clearly isnt an option on this frame and fork?!

As in, if i put a spirit level on top of my mtb tyre, and held it level, my 700c wheel would pass under it. It's a 2.1, so he'll drop the axles about half an inch, negligible. I haven't seen the clearances but it might happen.

And also, Eric, if you fancy buying a new bike, GT zum s2 will probably fit the bill very well.

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Everythings an argument with you.

Yes smaller wheels are tougher, but were talking road use here, and you just said yourself they roll better...

Combats are wider than 1" so your talking bollocks, not to mention at no point in time would there ever be the need for that setup...

And it wont happen..

The guys after sorting out his old bike not buying a new bike, i was just trying to save him what would be alot of hassle and probably a fair amount of money.

Why do i even bother trying to offer advise?

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Cheers for the help guys. Glen, Robs right, I'm not after getting a new bike just want to make mine a bit more friendly for the ride to work as the roads here are absolutely shocking.

I can't remember if I made reference to my mates Dads bike when I originally asked for advice but here is the one he owns...

3818.jpg

Here's a spec of the wheels...

Rear Hub Shimano, 32 Hole Disc with Locking QR

Front Hub Shimano 32 Hole Disc with Locking QR

Spokes DT 14 Gauge Black Stainless

Rims Mavic XM-317, 32 Hole Disc

Tyres Continental Sport Contact, 26” x 1.6” with Safety System

That's the sort of wheels I'm looking for and that set up would be ideal for my commute to and from work so yeah... Any where I can get that wheel set or is it just a case of buy the parts and get them built up myself?

Cheers for the help guys.

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Go to any raleigh dealer and ask for a probuild of the closest spec they have of that. Fairly sure they do deores on 317s though... About 70 quid each iirc? (my shop can get em in) same with the tyres, any conti dealer, probably the same shop...

How tall are you dan? And what's your inside leg?

Edited by Fixed Pants™
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But with maybe 10mm off the stem, we're almost exactly the same dimensions from what i can tell (the easy to measure ones anyway)

Have a sit. Get the twat in halfords to take a pic of you side on when you're riding on the hoods (hands ontop of the bars, being able to pull the brake levers) with the saddle at the right height. Or if they seem like they know what they're doing, ask if they think you have a 45* back angle... And make sure it feels like there's nothing pulling, ie, your lower back, your shoulders.

Also look at where the front hub is sitting in relation to the handlebars when you look down at the front hub, if it's good, generally the handlebar will cover the front hub.

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Any one able to assist with my post above?

You may beable to get that exact wheelset, finding where from may be a problem though...

Give us a price range budy, for something similar, with the way prices are at the mo, i'd look to spend about ÂŁ120ish.

cheers =], what size frame do you have on the road bike ? and how tall are you ?

because i cant decide between the small or medium lol.

It a Medium, and given your height i'd go for a M too. Do what FP says just to make sure!

P.S.

Dont let the monkey size you up on a medium carrera!!!

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How flat is your route Jardo? I find that I ride comfortably on the flat at somewhere between 18-22mph depending on wind, but around my 6.8m training loop, my fastest time so far is 3 times round in an hour and one minute, clocked an average speed of just under 19mph. I tend to do it twice one way, then once the other, although I'm gonna work on doing it twice one way twice the other as it's a nice varied route with plenty of interval training opportunities. Beats riding along a flat A road for 20 miles, turning around then coming right back, although I do spend about 30+ mins a day on my turbo at the moment doing interval training :)

Sorry for the late reply, the route is marginally down hill for 3/4 of the way with a short shallow incline at the end. It's pretty much a straight road aswell, and I've managed to time it so that if I leave at 12 to 9 I can get through the traffic lights without stopping with a bit of slow down/speed up on the approach to them :)

Heres the route, however it's almost a straight line. I can't get Google maps to pick up the tunnels and crossing that make it a straight line.

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source...mp;t=h&z=15

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Everythings an argument with you.

Yes smaller wheels are tougher, but were talking road use here, and you just said yourself they roll better...

You talk some crap. Bigger wheels are better over rough terrain than smaller wheels and bigger wheels roll quicker than smaller ones and are faster than smaller ones with equivalent gearing due to the larger circumference. The only advantage to smaller wheels is that you can have a smaller frame/bike.

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You talk some crap. Bigger wheels are better over rough terrain than smaller wheels and bigger wheels roll quicker than smaller ones and are faster than smaller ones with equivalent gearing due to the larger circumference. The only advantage to smaller wheels is that you can have a smaller frame/bike.

Plus the gyroscopic effect allowing you to flick the bike over quicker, and a generally shorter wheelbase allowing yet more manoeuvrability. If your post was completely correct then DHers would all be running 32" wheels or something.

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