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Help Building My New Mod


Katkin

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Here is the base of my new mod.

It's an onza something but I don't know what.

It's Ozzy's old frame if that helps.

DSCF1478.jpg

So far I have a frame a monty bottom bracket thingy and a monty bash guard (donated by my brother.

Anyway what I need to know first is what gearing should I have on a mod because I havn't a clue.

I have some middleburn cranks but they are 170mm which Matt says he thinks are too long.

What do you think?

If I need new cranks I will be having a front freewheel so can someone help me out with gearing from the cranks back.

Thanks guys

Kat

Edited by Katkin
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170 is not fine, they ride like shite! My brother had a t-lite with 170 cranks, it was horrid until we put 160s on it.

I totally disagree with that. 160mm cranks are too short, and don't offer enough power and leverage. 170s are fine and don't feel toooo ultra-lanky and lengthy. In fact, when you get properly used to it, you'll find you have greater stability and balance from it, as well as more leverage and power. Notice how 175s are the norm in BMX! There's just more stability overall and each pedal stroke delivers more power.

Mark (OBM) used 175s on his mods, and from what he's posted in the past, it's apparent that the extra power, leverage, and stability that longer crankarms gave, were a huge benefit to his riding, more or less. That's 175s on a mod, and I still personally much preferred that over weedy 160s.

170mm is the happy medium that suits all... Mod, 24, and Stock; well proven and trusted by thousands worldwide.

EDIT: Also, the gearing 'feel' isn't that much affected by crank length. I mean, yes there is a bit, a tiny bit... but not to the point that it makes the gearing feel like kicking nothing. 170mm on 18:12 on a mod is perfectly fine... I think that's the most used set up for drivetrain on mods. For good reason. It also makes you focus more on technique and manipulation of the bike with the body, rather than brute power coming from the gearing that propels you. When learning stuff like pinch gaps, I strongly believe longer than 160mm is better.

Edited by Sponge
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170 is not fine, they ride like shite! My brother had a t-lite with 170 cranks, it was horrid until we put 160s on it.

+1

170mm is too long, it makes the gearing feel easier which I didn't like. I had 165mm before and couldn't put more power into my moves. As soon as I got 160mm, BAM! I got up things I couldn't the day before.

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What crank length feels comfortable is more a function of the length of your legs than whether the bike is a mod or stock - BB heights are pretty similar in both, so it's not like the pedals are hitting the ground with long cranks. At my 5' 11" ish height 170-175mm cranks work well for XC and trials, if you're a lot shorter than that, shorter cranks are the way to go. Even though Middleburns are the best cranks ever made for trials (Based on the sheer number of front freewheel cranks I've chewed the threads out of in the past 1.5 years after using the same middleburns for 2 years before that), they're not compatible with a front freewheel, so building a mod using them will end up with you either having to run an 18T freewheel on the back (And a 27T front sprocket to get the same gear as a 18:12 on a reasonably priced hub or if you can get a 16T freewheel you can use a 24T front chainring, but unless there's a 16T ENO I'm not sure what else to trust for trials) or paying for a Chris King BMX rear hub.

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Blimey you were quick. And I also think you missed the other 2-3 posts that stated this.

It was his old frame-LMFAO :lol:

These are the bits of my new Mod that i have so far, i also have some fancy clips, but my boyf has nicked them..b*****d !!!!! (N)

check out the pic, i am excited now WooHoo xx

Click Me

dscf1625sen.th.jpg

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It's an onza something but I don't know what.

So far I have a frame a monty bottom bracket thingy and a monty bash guard (donated by my brother.

Anyway what I need to know first is what gearing should I have on a mod because I havn't a clue.

I think you should get help from a local who has experience in building bikes, before you go and try and do it yourself.

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