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What Size Rotor For A Mod On Back


Skilled trials

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I'm curious as to why you WOULDN'T want a 203 on the rear? When the brakes are the most important thing, especially the rear, why not?

180's are all you really need on the front of a stock, yet people still run 203....

All the mods I've ridden have been maggies on the rear...curious is all.

Edited by rupintart
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I'm curious as to why you WOULDN'T want a 203 on the rear? When the brakes are the most important thing, especially the rear, why not?

180's are all you really need on the front of a stock, yet people still run 203....

All the mods I've ridden have been maggies on the rear...curious is all.

Because, bigger rotor means bigger chance that you'll bend it.

Edited by MiuSliS
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I'm curious as to why you WOULDN'T want a 203 on the rear? When the brakes are the most important thing, especially the rear, why not?

Because it's a shitload easier to hit, plus with smaller wheels you need a proportionally smaller brake for the same power. I can't remember what it'd be exactly, but a 203mm on a mod would be about a 225mm on a stock, or there or thereabouts. Bearing in mind mods are smaller and lighter than stocks you also need less stopping power in general, so something like a 160 or 180 would be fine. I run a 160 on mine because I find that it gives me plenty of power and hold, but you can still modulate it nicely which is useful for riding natural stuff.

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Because it's a shitload easier to hit, plus with smaller wheels you need a proportionally smaller brake for the same power. I can't remember what it'd be exactly, but a 203mm on a mod would be about a 225mm on a stock, or there or thereabouts. Bearing in mind mods are smaller and lighter than stocks you also need less stopping power in general, so something like a 160 or 180 would be fine. I run a 160 on mine because I find that it gives me plenty of power and hold, but you can still modulate it nicely which is useful for riding natural stuff.

You don't use a bb7 though do you Mark?

I feel you need at least 180+ on a mod rear for bb7

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I know concerning the whole leverage thing with stock vs mod wheel size, but why would anybody say it's too much brake? I would rather have too much power in the rear rather than "just enough".

Hitting the rotor, if you hit the 8inch from a botched sidehop, a 6 inch would get hit as well. I don't quite get how it's "more vulnerable".

No bashing or anything, just curious why it's "advised against".

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the bigger the rotor the more there is to bend, theres no way you'd need 203mm for a mod, i had 203 on my stock and it was ridiculously powerful :) it's extra money for no gain, and it's extra weight and making the back end of a bike heavy isn't a smart move, large rotors are favoured cause they disperse heat more effectively than smaller rotors, heat is never an issue in trials :) it'd be excessive, plus it'd be expensive buy 200mm rotors all the time...

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heat is never an issue in trials :)

Comeing from someone living in lincoinshire where it's generally flat as a pancake. (Where I live everywheres a f**king hill & disc rotors warp in a second)

Whatever size u go for get one of these

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Hope_Flo...tor/5360029666/

I will be when I eventually go disc & they come in nice pretty colours...

Edited by CC12345678910
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I know concerning the whole leverage thing with stock vs mod wheel size, but why would anybody say it's too much brake? I would rather have too much power in the rear rather than "just enough".

Hitting the rotor, if you hit the 8inch from a botched sidehop, a 6 inch would get hit as well. I don't quite get how it's "more vulnerable".

No bashing or anything, just curious why it's "advised against".

the fact is, a 160mm rotor IS enough for the back. a well set up hope mono trial with a 160mm rotor is so damn good... and even with a 160 i managed to bend my first one. i think i'd rather crap myself than ride with a 203 for fear of hitting it!

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Hitting the rotor, if you hit the 8inch from a botched sidehop, a 6 inch would get hit as well. I don't quite get how it's "more vulnerable".

Not always, especially as you don't generally go directly down on a rotor from a missed sidehop (and if you were going straight down, you probably wouldn't bend it). Because of the angle you go at, 160s and to a lesser extent 180s are more protected by your frame and tyre than a 203 is. Similarly, you need all the clearance you can get riding 'proper' natural, so I'd rather have a smaller rotor that's still plenty powerful enough, but have it smaller so it's harder to hit in the first place, but also harder to bend if you do.

Going back to the power thing again - you don't just want pure power in a rear brake, most of the time. 160s and 180s are definitely powerful enough, but for feathering a brake it's nicer to have the smaller rotors rather than a 200+ so you have more control with it. Again, that's more applicable to natural, and to be fair I'd say natural was a far, far harder test of a brake than you'd get on street.

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I used a 203 BB7 on the rear of my 24" (and yes, I can set up a BB7 very well - they are the only brakes I ever use on the front), for modulation it was good, for bite & hold however it was in no way as good as a rim brake set-up.

So considering the smaller wheel I'd say a 185 rotor would be acceptable, but don't expect to be blown away with 'power'. I can just see a 160 rotor on a cable opperated disc brake on the rear not being enough..

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