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G-Sport Ratchet Hub


Akira_Shock!

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Hi,

I found this on the internet. Looks like nice replacement for Profile/CK. Designed for BMX, seems like the best cassette hub at the moment. Now available with new 10mm axle, 36h, 10t drivers and above.

This is the new Ratchet Hub, launching early in 2008... hopefully...

OK call it a cassette hub if you must, but "ratchet" is what it does, how it works and what it's officially going to be called.

RATCHET HUB FEATURES:

1. Hollow 20mm axle system, as proven on the Homer hubs. Over twice as strong as a solid 14mm axle. Lifetime warranty against bending or snapping, even if it gets run over by a truck.

2. NEW custom hollow 14mm thread bolts, with a 17mm hex head and broached for a 6mm allen-key for maximum compatibility.

3. Oversized cartridge bearings for the hub itself as proven on the Homer hubs. Rated at over half-a-ton each.

4. Threadless press-on collar system for bearing and driver retention. Nothing to adjust or come loose. Again, as well proven on the Homer hubs.

5. Square tooth-profile ratchet-ring and symmetrical one-piece driver for easy left/right hand drive switching.

6. Three (the optimum number) over-size, high-precision, individually-sprung, pawls that work simultaneously. Fully retained to prevent "wandering" and to simplify cleaning without the risk of loosing parts.

7. One-piece drivers down to 10-tooth running on high-load capacity needle roller bearings. Run your chain as tight as you like and NEVER blow a driver bearing.

8. Angled spoke flanges for the absolutely ideal spoke line. If you need a spoke guard, then you need a spoke guard. Fancy machine-work and limited lacing options will not change this.

Most of the problems with existing cassette hubs stem from the axle bending. Not just bending when you land hard or use pegs, but even the gentle bend they sometimes adopt just to match your slightly bent or crooked frame. Using the 20mm Homer axle system that has proven itself so well over the years that it will eliminate this problem a single stroke.

Other problems typically stem from poor driver/pawl tolerancing, or simply everything being made "too small". By concentrating all our efforts on making one set of three oversize, rock-solid, reliable pawls, the Ratchet hub will avoid these issues too. There are dozens of little design details that have gone into making the Ratchet Hub the most carefully excuted "cassette" to date, and we're confident that they will shine through when it comes to the hub's function and performance.

SPECIFICATIONS:

Weight (standard 14mm configuration).................... 19 ounces / 540g

Weight (3/8" bolt option)......................................14 ounces / 400g T.B.C.

Weight (14mm bolt Titanium axle option)...................14 ounces / 400g T.B.C.

Over locknut dimension........................................1 10mm

Spoke hole options........................................... ...36 and 48

Driver Options........................................... .......10 tooth and above

Release Date.............................................. .......Spring 2008 To Be Confirmed

Recommended Retail Price....................................$150 - $200 To Be Confirmed

ratchet-hub-38axle-500x375.jpg

ratchet-hub.jpg

Ratchet HubMarmosetThe Ratchet hub is the current rear hub. You shouldn’t call it a cassette, there is no cassette of cogs here, just a rock solid one-piece driver. Every component has been designed from the ground up to be as smooth and solid as possible. The 3 pawls and ratchet ring are oversize, and because the driver and hub both run on the famously stiff 20mm GSport axle, everything will always be held in strict alignment. 3 independent long-travel springs keep the tension. The spring and pawl retention system ensures optimum alignment of pawls and drive ring, and keeps the hardware securely in place during routine maintenance. The oversize ratchet ring with patent pending square tooth profile makes for easy left/right drive switching, with no extra parts and virtually no tools. New for 2010 will be a 3/8″ aluminum axle for the Ratchet. Saving weight in the most important place.

gsport_ratchet.jpg

Discuss?

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The engagement is shit for trials. They're pretty hefty too.

This is it in a nut shell tbf.

G-sport are a pretty reputable company, but this isn't really trials worthy. It'll probably last a good long time though but wouldn't recommend it for trials

Lets face it, you're not going to beat a profile for quality and price ;)

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Actually, Profile's aren't all that godly.

Quality's sometimes a little off, and the hub shell has a design error, unless they fixed that? Or maybe they still haven't, and still rely on those shims. Skippage is not so uncommon, and the shells tend to shear themselves open from time to time. It's best point is probably the looks of the shell. Other than that, it's a pretty meh hub for a BMX cassette, especially in comparison to other brands' designs. Profile cranks are another part they are famous for, yet the qualtiy is pretty slack, from the 5 pairs I've had. Some arms have slightly more offset than others, and sometimes the pedal boss is welded on at a funny angle.

Price-wise, Profile hubs are still a bit pricey. Now with the SL freewheel, does anyone really still need to use a Profile for trials?

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i dont quite agree with the comments regarding profile hubs , ive only ever trusted profile hubs and ive tried everything else going . i think the only thing that is making profiles less appealing is that rim manufactures are choosing to use a 32 hole drilling rather than a traditional 36 of the profile , im going to continue using profile until the day comes were i cant find a rim for it and then im gonna buy a king hub .

the gsport hub looks very pritty but the internals let it down .

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No to the Ratchet. I'm still not convinced, even for bmx. Too many people reporting problems. But maybe that's just overhype on them.

Price-wise, Profile hubs are still a bit pricey. Now with the SL freewheel, does anyone really still need to use a Profile for trials?

I find rear drive is nicer for "streeter"stuff. Plus you don't get your trousers caught.

Because Profiles are race hubs. And race rims come in 36. seems reasonable. eh ;)

Or 28h. 32h can "suhmadic."

Has the 204 engagement Profile been mentioned? Screw that. King is too much for me, but that could just be the design making me dislike it.

Doesn't look like allot of room for that much going on.

1109ultrapawlhubblue_700.jpg

* Availability February 2010

* Instant acceleration

* Completely new driver design with 6 pawls and springs

* Cassette hub has 204 points of engagement

* Photo is of prototype. Production hubs will have matching cones and volcano bolt covers

* Colors have yet to be determined

* Pricing will be higher than the Mini and Totem hubs.

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I find rear drive is nicer for "streeter"stuff. Plus you don't get your trousers caught.

How? I've got a coaster or cassette on my BMX, but I run 18:13 with a FFW setup on my 24 and there's virtually no difference at all. I don't ever think to myself "Man, I could've done that with RFW/FFW", or really notice it at all. If you've got a bashring it's also pretty much no problem, unless you're wearing incredibly loose jeans...

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Pretty much same each time. I read about that before, but can't remember how you figure it out. But Eno up front vs Profile, the Eno has always felt more direct. Like i said mind games.

I presume you just multiply gear ratio by engagement for the rear drive. Do a Wiki :D

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Pretty much same each time. I read about that before, but can't remember how you figure it out. But Eno up front vs Profile, the Eno has always felt more direct. Like i said mind games.

I presume you just multiply gear ratio by engagement for the rear drive. Do a Wiki :D

Theoretically, wouldn't FFW be more advantageous for 'streetier' stuff? I say this because the weight of the drivetrain is more centrally focused with a FFW set up, as opposed to a hefty rump steak rear cassette hub hogging up the weight in the rear wheel. Thus, for spins and many other moves, a more centrally weighted drivetrain would allow a snappier spin, say? Just theory, but I do think that the whole 'rear drive for street stuff' is all pre-conditioned shit, just like how having a seat on your bike suddenly makes it more 'street worthy'.

I once had a Profile, and I can honestly say, it felt good engagement-wise, but it skipped a few times and I could tell it wasn't quite the magical dream hub that everyone made it out to be. If I had to pick a drivetrain setup for my trials bike it'd have to be the Echo SL freewheel as of current. Shame I don't have a trials bike anymore though :turned:

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I presume you just multiply gear ratio by engagement for the rear drive. Do a Wiki :D

[Gear ratio] x [No. of engagement points at rear] = [No. of engagement points at cranks]

1.5 x 48 = 72

:)

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