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Hub Snapped What To Do?


sayshell

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my rear hub snapped doing a nose manuel, I need to buy a new hub but I don't know what is good. Profile is very poorly designed as the smaller flange concentrates pressure closer together. Main problem is I don't want to have to buy new sprokets and cranks and bb using a ffw. I want to use a rear freehub. I would rather use a trials hub, I have used my echo for 5 years and never had a problem but all trials hubs are ffw these days. I could also run a rear freewheel on a fixed hub but then I still need a new sproket and I might have to but like 3 to get the right chain tension. Anyone know a lot about bmx hubs? The only other ones I know of are odyssey and g-sport. They both are really heavy.

Edited by sayshell
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well im guessing your on about 20 inch hubs.

unfortunatly your looking at a profile or a criss king. both are expensive. especially the criss king bmx. it is possible to get a 16 tooth freewheel on a fixed rear hub and run something like a 20 tooth sprocket on the front. (just an example as i used 20 -16 or 18 -14 currently).

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/complete_freewheels/tryall_1089/c16p2035.html 16tooth freewheels

more info about your cranks?

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+1

profile said they would give me one for free so it looks like that is what I am doing just cause I am tight on $$ now. I would prefer a different hub cause I hate using parts that break. Its poorly designed the small flange on one side concentrates the pressure too closely together. Big flanges are much stronger I think. I have had this hub about a year I think. My echo I have had for 4 years, it has massive flanges and no snapping. Its a front hub though so its not a fair comparison but the profile did snap on the small side.

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Try out some double butted spokes, should absorb more shock away from concentrating it into the hub flange. Profile's sister brand Madera has an internally identical rear hub (V2 not the sketchy Dexter V1) so maybe if you could swap out the hubshell for one of the Madera shells that might be of benefit too.

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It's near impossible to get double butted spokes suitable for 19" builds now, unless Tarty started stocking them again without me realising.

It depends what lengths you need - we've got some available, as shown on the website. I think they're not the 'popular' sizes though so you might struggle...

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Being almost 2 years old and being subjected to all those spin tricks, I'd say it's done very very well!

I know its comparing apples to oranges, its just almost every part I have is over 2 years old and holding fine. Its cracked in 9 different places after close inspection. I really don't know why they don't just use even flanges. Actually I think I do its so you can use the same length spokes?? Still I am going to send a recommendation to redesign their hub. The other flange has 0 cracks. The irony is I also spin to the left so the spokes on the drive side take all the stress from a landing so if anything the other side should crack first.

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Profile products are made of cheese and have poor tolerances. Luckily i've never had any serious issue with mine, but do keep a close eye on them. Is there chance of over tightening your spokes? To be fair allot of hubs use offset spoke tensioning (correct wording i know), but theirs survive. It's not so much the size of the flanges.

Your best bet is buy a Primo Mix, then drill and tap the axle to 10mm. (if you do want another hub) But weight is gonna come in at 600gram still. Do what i did and loose the 19" rear tyre. Save yourself considerable amount of weight and it's way faster. Just an idea :)

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I love my fat tire though. If I put on a fat 20" rear my bb and droupouts would go up too much. Also my brakes wouldn't work with a 20" rim. I thought profile hubs were cnc 7075? Maybe that was just the axle. I am sure its the flange size cause the other flange has 0 cracks and its the way higher stress flange. I wrote a letter to them, I said they need big flanges on both sides and to build a driver with 5 more pawls. Their is about 8 other cracks on the same flange which are unrelated to the big one. Its gotta be the design. I don't think the hub is all bad it just needs 2 small revisions. The bearings are smooth and don't loosen or tighten, its light weight, and no other problems with it other than occasional skip which could be easily fixed as well without even making a new hub. If only their was a 116 hope

Edited by sayshell
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I love my fat tire though. If I put on a fat 20" rear my bb and droupouts would go up too much. Also my brakes wouldn't work with a 20" rim. I thought profile hubs were cnc 7075? Maybe that was just the axle. I am sure its the flange size cause the other flange has 0 cracks and its the way higher stress flange. I wrote a letter to them, I said they need big flanges on both sides and to build a driver with 5 more pawls. Their is about 8 other cracks on the same flange which are unrelated to the big one. Its gotta be the design. I don't think the hub is all bad it just needs 2 small revisions. The bearings are smooth and don't loosen or tighten, its light weight, and no other problems with it other than occasional skip which could be easily fixed as well without even making a new hub. If only their was a 116 hope

I was just saying...

Nah they're made of cheese. You can't say which crack is related to what stress by looking. One could be a cause of the other and so forth.

If you must insist of running large flanges, try an SS with 3/8" axle. They have endless options it seems.

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