AndyT Posted February 3, 2023 Report Share Posted February 3, 2023 (edited) Just making sure, I've never bled this lever but had it since it first came out. I remembered some videos on tarty with the syringe going into the lever and exhaust going at slave?! That can't be right? I cant find anything on tarty anymore, their bleed lever video is a magura 2005 german guy corporate guy... no thanks.. Swear there was a new bleeding style people loved around 10 yesrs ago... Is it normal maggie style, go into slave and pump oil in- exhaust at lever ? I have the special smaller barb to fit the lever.. Don't know why I thought you syringe at the lever.. Anyone put my mind to ease ? Cant find anything online. Plenty if how to footplant videos though. edit - I bled it twice . Normal way... It is a super short front brake cable bled with trialtech fluid- still feels horrendous, mushy lever all the way to the bar. It holds the brake great, but made for a woman or childs hands. Super mush lever feel . No way to bleed without making a huge mess, why on earth they put thay bleed port pointing up... goodness. The rear brake is a hs33 that was bled 8 years ago- feels like a rock compared. 3 times the length... Are there any levers that are stiff these days ?? Are the carthy model any different? looks identical but shinier Racing line ? Stick with the 05 maggie lever? Have they figured out vee brake adaptors? This going in an inpulse w 4 bolt only fork. Edited February 3, 2023 by AndyT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 3, 2023 Report Share Posted February 3, 2023 It's bled from the caliper up to the lever. The bleed port positioning means you don't need to rotate the lever on your bars, it's the highest point in the system so you don't need to do the normal Magura thing of levelling the lever off. Did the rest of the system already have fluid in before you fitted the lever, or was it drained? If you want to check the bleed, wind the TPA fully off then gently pull the lever while watching the slaves. The pistons/pads should move as soon as you put pressure on the lever. If they don't, there's air in there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The dab Posted February 3, 2023 Report Share Posted February 3, 2023 I did submerged water bleeds on mine and even swapped master pistons to alloy and still had the mush got racing line levers and had solid brakes the first bleed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldertroll Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 Ran the cheaper TT levers for years with no mush. Will be how you’re bleeding them , are you bleeding them fitted to the bike or having the lever be the highest point and both master cylinders running in a vertical line upwards ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The dab Posted February 8, 2023 Report Share Posted February 8, 2023 Tried bleeding on bike and decided to take the brake off the bike and bleed it in a bucket of water still felt the same for front and rear brakes Mates all felt the same just a preference thing I guess 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 8, 2023 Report Share Posted February 8, 2023 On the bucket bleed thing - that doesn't guarantee you're getting all the air out of the system, so it's not necessarily the cure-all solution some riders seem to think it is (not implying that's the case with you by the way, it just comes up a lot as a "Well, I put it in a bucket of water so it should be fine" type response). Doing a proper bleed will give the best chance of removing any air from the system, and if you think there might be any left in there doing a quick top-up bleed at the lever should resolve that. When there's no air in the system they should feel firm. How firm they are exactly will depend on the rest of the setup (pad material, pad backings, how square the setup is, rim type, frame/fork type, booster/no booster, etc.). Compared to some 14mm piston levers there may be a small difference due to them being 13mm piston and the different leverage ratios, but if they're "mushy lever all the way to the bar" then there's something not right in there somewhere. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted February 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2023 thanks for the replies. Someone found a deep ali c video with the real tart showing what I was hoping to find... I swear this was a normal huge thing when it came out but no where to be found anymore... Ancient lost technology Basically after you bleed- theres always air still somehow in system. I bleed on bike, with lever in top position- slaves lower on a stand. After normal bleed - close everything, open the lever port. Put a syringe in that side- add some liquid, pull the lever blade gently and air will come out. you will see it.. Ali C says " doing this for years" and they agree it is the greatest thing to do for hs33... but as we see in this thread, loooooost technology!! ahahah... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 9, 2023 Report Share Posted February 9, 2023 1 hour ago, AndyT said: After normal bleed - close everything, open the lever port. Put a syringe in that side- add some liquid, pull the lever blade gently and air will come out. you will see it.. Ali C says " doing this for years" and they agree it is the greatest thing to do for hs33... but as we see in this thread, loooooost technology!! ahahah... On 2/8/2023 at 11:44 AM, Mark W said: Doing a proper bleed will give the best chance of removing any air from the system, and if you think there might be any left in there doing a quick top-up bleed at the lever should resolve that. That's what I mean by doing a top-up bleed. Also works really well on Magura disc brakes too thanks to the EBT bleeding setup on their levers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted February 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2023 ahhh right on . I'll bleed a few more times in the hope.... spoiled by my bb7 bbdb caliper from 1998. Instant engagement and solid like a rock. $7 speed digit 7 lever... Hmmmm . I'll throw this 238 gram four bolt booster on if nothing helps. It's older than most new street trialers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted March 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2023 Super updates- tried it all.. Put 80ml of trialtech fluid through it, it instantly engages... I can see the fork and frame flexing a TON... So I'm gonna put a 4 bolt booster on to fix this Put that on... hmm... still mushy- Look a little closer The rims are bending in!! Fuuuuuuuuurrrrrr , bought these wheels from Kevin Liu - who I know now is a huge money scammer and no one should associate with (DO NOT LEND HIM MONEY) . Nothing to do with these wheels, hes stolen hundreds of thousands of dollars and continues his schemeing in china now... Anyways I Throw my old wheels on there- HARD AS A ROCK. Ok finally ... I also had to remove the tnn clamps and go back to magura clamps- for adjustment, this inpulse frame has poorly aligned 4 bolt mounts- the front completely off... Og magura mountains with that circle of adjustment took care of business. Looking forward to getting this pogo working , thanks for the help... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted March 5, 2023 Report Share Posted March 5, 2023 Glad you got sorted! Powerful levers are powerful 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canardweb Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 So can anyone sum how you are bleeding these brakes with a syringe? Step by step if possible? Also I would like to use Shimano Mineral oil in them. Is it possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 Same as any rim brake, except you can leave the lever on the bars in normal riding position and not have to flip it around, because the bleed port is the highest part of the system. Yep. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canardweb Posted June 20, 2023 Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 On 6/19/2023 at 9:12 AM, AdamR28 said: Same as any rim brake, except you can leave the lever on the bars in normal riding position and not have to flip it around, because the bleed port is the highest part of the system. Yep. Hey thank you so much Adam. Didn't expect you would answer here. I have to find a decent bleed tutorial as I have always used the bath/bucket method. Do you think Shimano Mineral oil would work with them? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
La Bourde Posted June 20, 2023 Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 (edited) It shall work but the Shimano oil is much thicker than the trialtech specific fluid. So I do not recommend it. I tried and it was OK, better than the original oil (I mean the Magura blood) I tried with thiner mineral oils, like suspension fork oil from Putoline (the HPX 2.5). The result is OK, but the trialtech fluid is still better. Edited June 20, 2023 by La Bourde 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canardweb Posted June 20, 2023 Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 19 minutes ago, La Bourde said: It shall work but the Shimano oil is much thicker than the trialtech specific fluid. So I do not recommend it. I tried and it was OK, better than the original oil (I mean the Magura blood) I tried with thiner mineral oils, like suspension fork oil from Putoline (the HPX 2.5). The result is OK, but the trialtech fluid is still better. The legend strikes again. Thanks so much for your experience La Bourde. How is that Crewkerz bike you bought from Jebegood (Tribalzine's founder) on Leboncoin then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
La Bourde Posted June 20, 2023 Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 You are welcome! It is a really cool bike, I like it a lot. I want to create a post on this forum, but I am too busy currently. I am experimenting different v-brake setups, I think it makes sense to share my experience in this regard at a point. The Freed is shorter than my large Cleep2, so easier to move around and more fun. At its original price, the bike was a good deal. It is quite heavy though. I rode with my cleep the last few days and I had the impression, I did some progress. 👍 I unfortunately already had some issues with the Freed: there is now a crack in the v-brake adapter, the rim tape managed to cut the tube (never had that before !) and I bent the front rim quite a lot, I had to remove the whole tension of some spokes so that the wheel spins... Need a new rim. Crewkerz had to save some money to maintain a low price, I guess the rims are not so good. PS: I guess the real legends are Jebegood, AdamR28, Julien H. and other😉 Putting my name close to theirs is already an offend. 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canardweb Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 (edited) Please make a thread about that bike. This forum needs so life to it. Nice to have some news about all this. I would be really interested about Vees. I have used them in the past following Ali's advices and they were awesome! I would definitely use them again if I could find good adapters! Edited June 21, 2023 by Canardweb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canardweb Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 (edited) Ok so I tried bleeding my brakes thanks to this video: My brakes are brand new and just had their levers swapped to some Carthy Trialtech ones so there were still some magura oil with the cooling liquid used by Crewkerz. I used cooling liquid and did the pump trick to evacuate as much old liquid as I could. I did the normal bleed and the top trick and my levers are still not engaging instantly. Tried the top trick again and it's better but not quite there yet. I will leave it tonight and hope for the air bubbles to come up but I just keep getting some coming up the hose no matter how long I try... Will leaving it overnight help? Anyone has a clue on what could be wrong? Thanks Edit: just tried the top trick again and it's definitely better but not 100% there. I am kind of anal with brakes as I want it to be perfect and there is clearly a part of the lever strike that is compressing some air before liquid. I will try again tomorrow after leaving the brake rest overnight and I hope for the best. I still take any adviced that could be given anyway. Edited June 22, 2023 by Canardweb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted June 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 (edited) On 6/21/2023 at 10:21 AM, Canardweb said: Ok so I tried bleeding my brakes thanks to this video: My brakes are brand new and just had their levers swapped to some Carthy Trialtech ones so there were still some magura oil with the cooling liquid used by Crewkerz. I used cooling liquid and did the pump trick to evacuate as much old liquid as I could. I did the normal bleed and the top trick and my levers are still not engaging instantly. Tried the top trick again and it's better but not quite there yet. I will leave it tonight and hope for the air bubbles to come up but I just keep getting some coming up the hose no matter how long I try... Will leaving it overnight help? Anyone has a clue on what could be wrong? Thanks Edit: just tried the top trick again and it's definitely better but not 100% there. I am kind of anal with brakes as I want it to be perfect and there is clearly a part of the lever strike that is compressing some air before liquid. I will try again tomorrow after leaving the brake rest overnight and I hope for the best. I still take any adviced that could be given anyway. I'm months and months later, Just get used to it having zero feeling just pull it into mush and it is on, it never slips- it feels like absolute trash but i think thats all it is now... solid hand to bar like ur holding a bar, no extra effort for your finger to oull thr brake... mush. Made for women n childrens hands Edited June 23, 2023 by AndyT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canardweb Posted June 23, 2023 Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 Hey, I finally managed to get a perfect bleed out of both my front and rear levers. They feel nice but HS33 is not my cup of tea. They are noisy, ever so slightly slippy if you hop backwards, and require too much maintenance to stay at their highest standard. I just want V-brake but it seems difficult as I can't find adapters anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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