Jump to content

Locking Out A Hope?


Davetrials

Recommended Posts

The idea of filling your hub with silicone is to stof it from spinning backwards.

You still retain all of your pawls and springs, so the hub is constantly engaged.

Basically it isnt the silicone that is locking your hub out it is stopping the pawl from pressing down.

Hope this helps (N)

Frenchman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeap, if the pawls cant close then everything will be engaged forwards and backwards. There was a topic about this a while ago have a look on the search, theres were 100's of suggestions some more far fetched than others. But the silicon will do the job anyway

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep i used aroldite, , silicone sealant works too....

this is of course to use with a free wheel for trials...

not for riding fixed gear roady....

for that you really gotta either weld up a shimano freehub body..

or buy a proper track hub..!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would use leak fix in it or liquid metal.  dont no if i would trust cilcon  :lol:"

you could use anything to lock a hub out. you wil be surprised.. you could use f**king monkey spunk and it would work.. it doesnt need to be a strong material

:S :P :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'Fill ye ole fing up with a good 3/1  mix of cement!

or

liquid Iron. that shuld stop it from slipping! hehe!

what if all that shit gets into the bearings?!?!

atleast with silicon you can take it out if it touches/gets into the bearings (Y)

Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea as ad101 said: 'I used locktite'. It seemed to work fine but i would advise you to try and use something light. You dont want to shuv loads of stuff in your hud that it weighs a tone!

The best idea for locking hubs up a think is to just araldite the prawls into position, thats all you need! Unless you force the pedals really hard going down a hill (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or you could just take out the internal spacer (tubular) which sits over the axle between the bearings in the freehub body and the bearings in the hubshell, remove the pawls and springs and then put it all back together as normal

if you do up your QR pretty tight then your freehub will be fixed enough to use front freewheel with the QR tension. and you don't need to f**k up your hub in the process so if you decide you hate front freewheel (i know i would) - you can return to normal.

(Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or you could just take out the internal spacer (tubular) which sits over the axle between the bearings in the freehub body and the bearings in the hubshell, remove the pawls and springs and then put it all back together as normal

if you do up your QR pretty tight then your freehub will be fixed enough to use front freewheel with the QR tension. and you don't need to f**k up your hub in the process so if you decide you hate front freewheel (i know i would) - you can return to normal.

:S

so the drive will be relying on the tightness of the qr? :mellow:

i wouldnt trust that atall!

hope ive understood you correctly

Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...