Vw's On The Trials Forum

[nmt_oli]

Can you not simply get wider arches like on Mini's?

You can, but the selection is limited.

OEM stuff is pre 90s spec arch kit (very small increase in width, more protective trim) , post 90 spec kit (slightly wider than the pre 90, but not a lot, maybe 5mm) and G60 kit which is a 90 spec kit with wide arches. these are 7mm at the rear and 22mm at the front wider than 90spec arches. that means the most your realistically going to get is an inch over the std panel width.

Botling anything else on looks wrong.

You also have to take into account wheel to arch contact when lowering. extensions are great, but you still have a rubbing problem underneath them. arch rolling helps.

the problem i have is these wheels are 8" wide, and will be runnign an effective offset of -5. Std wheels are 5.5" wide, with effective offset of 22. basically the utside lip will stick out about 60mm further than std wheels. Thats a long way. And i am going to have rubbing problems, as there 16" rims. custom metal archwork would be different, and look damn cool i think.

Wheels sticking out isnt an mot failure, but is illegal. Thats technically not quite right though, the wheel can stick out as far as you like, as long as the tyre tread doesnt- hence stretching tyres.

[Tom Booth]

It's all there! but in however many pieces....

[planet-x-boy]

If anyone is looking to buy a mk4 golf give me a shout

[TomN]

That Golf is tidy

[br3n]

That bus is the nuts! clean the inside but dont touch the out sweeeeeeeeet

[Joe Sheehan!]

Whats the cheapest way of getting considerable power gains from a 1.6 MK2 16V golf GTI?

Like, ive heard of sticking the 2ltr bottom end on it, or even dropping the new 1.8t lump in it, but i dont really think these are cheap options... what else is there that you can do to get more ponies?

[Gavyn.]

I don't think there is such a thing as cheap considerable power gains really. you can do lot's of little power gains which will add up cheapish but to get a decent amount more power you need to spend a fair bit.

[nmt_oli]

Whats the cheapest way of getting considerable power gains from a 1.6 MK2 16V golf GTI?

There is no such a car! all valvers are 1.8 or 2 litre. All mk2 valvers are 1.8 as standard.

Unfortunately theres nothing particularly cheap. A good service, and making sure all the sensors and idle control valve and what not are working and correctly set will help if the enignes not on form, but that will only get you back to factory power.

a set of KR cams if its not a kr will see you a few horses.

A 4-2-1 manifold and decent exaust, andong with a modifed airbox and k&n panel will prob see you reasonable gains.

next step would be a 2litre bottom end.

then aftermarket cams (getting expensive now)

You could ditch the injection and go carbs, lots of power potential, but not great fuel economy, and may not be that cheap.

Im planning on running a 1.8 16v KR on yamaha bike carbs. hopeing to see 165-170 hp, but there wont be bucket loads of torque (something you do get with a turbo conversion, and to a lesser extent a 2.0 litre bottom end.

Im also panning a 2.0 litre 16v with an eaton super charger, hoping for 200+ horses from that, and with good torque values. Still wont be 20vt power (or even 16vt power) but it will be considerably cheaper.

[Joe Sheehan!]

There is no such a car! all valvers are 1.8 or 2 litre. All mk2 valvers are 1.8 as standard.

Unfortunately theres nothing particularly cheap. A good service, and making sure all the sensors and idle control valve and what not are working and correctly set will help if the enignes not on form, but that will only get you back to factory power.

a set of KR cams if its not a kr will see you a few horses.

A 4-2-1 manifold and decent exaust, andong with a modifed airbox and k&n panel will prob see you reasonable gains.

next step would be a 2litre bottom end.

then aftermarket cams (getting expensive now)

You could ditch the injection and go carbs, lots of power potential, but not great fuel economy, and may not be that cheap.

Im planning on running a 1.8 16v KR on yamaha bike carbs. hopeing to see 165-170 hp, but there wont be bucket loads of torque (something you do get with a turbo conversion, and to a lesser extent a 2.0 litre bottom end.

Im also panning a 2.0 litre 16v with an eaton super charger, hoping for 200+ horses from that, and with good torque values. Still wont be 20vt power (or even 16vt power) but it will be considerably cheaper.

Whoops! Got confused there, was trying to write 1.8 but was thinking 16v :$

But yeah, i think hes looking more towards engine swaps rather than tuning, but how much would the 2.0 bottom end with the eaton supercharger cost roughly? Because it would probably be either that, or something like 1.8t lump, G60 or even VR6, all price dependant obviously!

I think hes looking to nudge into the 200 ponies region, his mate has just bought a S2 RS turbo so he no longer has the fastest car out of us! How hard also is it to do an engine swap on the MK2 golfs? Cheers.

[nmt_oli]

2 litre bottom end is a dirt cheap swap, £50 should see you a good bottom end i fyou do enough searching, then its a direct swap. all youl need is a headgeasket set and an engine hoist. good time to renew bits and bobs though, so will prob end up a couple of hundred all in.

The eaton conversion that has been done on my new project looks like its been done pretty cheap, the inlet manifold and all the braketry has been welded up with a mig. labour intensive, and creative, but cheap. I will end up spending more getting bits made up nicer. not a common conversion (infact, i think mine is the only one of its kind) so info is hard to find on this.

G60 is a good conversion, can be hard to find and isnt exactly cheap though. can be reliability issues with the charger too.

VR6 gives a lovely engine noise, pretty common swap now. donor engnes are pretty expensive, exaust set up can be awkward, and its quite a heavy lump- can affect handling.

20vt is one of the best conversions performance wise, can be done from £1000 (if your very lucky) up to 4k usually.

[Waddy]

if hes going down the 2L route, he wants a 9a bottom end as rather than the abf, as the 9a has a shorter stroke so more power, also if he is wanting to go for forced induction then the 9a can take audi S2 pistons to lower the compresion, theres a guy on club gti who did the 9a swap and got mid 6's 0-60 running on standard k-jet injection.

im also going to go down the 2L 16v route , altho il be using an abf, and digifant3 injection system, just need to find the suitable mk3 doner car now. going to swap beam and wishbones aswell wide track

[Joe Sheehan!]

Right, so it looks like a 2ltr bottom end with some kind of forced induction is the best bet then? By the way, whats the difference between k-jetronic and digifant? And also how much would S2 pistons cost?

Im thinking 16v 2ltr, cams, S2 pistons, a decent exhaust and some description of forced induction? Then obviously brakes and suspension, as well as replacing engine mounts while its out. Is 9a the engine code? And isnt it from an audi itself?

EDIT: would a turbo be too brash? and also whats an ABF? and are there any cheap LSDs that you can get for golfs?

Edited November 6, 2007 by sheehan

[Caleb]

just seen some inscribed second hand porsche 944 anodised door handles go for on ebay

second hand

18 years old

no keys

£146 ! for door handles lol

[granty]

my mk2 golf 1800 driver gti cams, twin webbers, k&n filters, straight through stainless steel pipe. goes like shit off a shovel i can out do my brothers 1.8 gti 8v mk2 golf.

this is my mates corrado only the 1.8 16v he got told it was the 2.0 16v even on the papers but he has got it changed on the papers back too the 1.8 but when he finds a 2.0 block he is gonna put that on.

[Will_R]

Probally the best place to put this, sorry if it's not.

Bit of a long shot, but does anyone have, or knows someone that has a Weber twin choke carb for a 1600 mk2 golf for sale? My pierburg is shagged!

Cheers Will

[nmt_oli]

Got one on my car! not for sale until the new engine goes in though (christmas). In fact the whole lump will prob be for sale (100k 1.6 EZ, GTi cam, decoked head, Webber DMTL, 15k old clutch, std box).

In the mean time, heres how to fix the pierburg! coutesy of jonny!

Here is a list of Pierburg components and troubleshooting tips:

TTV & idle over run valve:

These should both get 12v when the ignition is on, and there should be an audiable 'click' from the engine bay when the key is turned.

3/4 Point Unit:

When engine is off, should be extended to 14.5mm. When engine is started should retract to about 8.5mm after a varying delay, depending on temperature.

Pull Down Unit:

When engine is running, you should be able to close the choke flab by hand easily until the last 5mm or travel, then resistance should be felt. If not the pulldown unit is defective or incorrectly adjusted (it has a small screw on the end of the plastic lever, but this should not need to be adjusted)

Inlet manifold preheater:

Located at the bottom of the inlet manifold, looks like a hedgehog. The electrical connection is at the back of the engine bay behind the carb, should get 12v when engine is cold, should switch off when engine has warmed up. (controlled by grey temperature sender, see below)

Vacumm Unit Stage 2:

This opens the second throttle butterfly when you have your foot down, not had a problem with this myself but I imagine sympoms for a failed unit would be no power under full throttle.

Waxstat, also known as 'Expansion Element':

Helps control the idle untill the autochoke switches off completely. Is full of wax which is heated by coolant. As the wax expands a pin exends from the unit pressing a lever which brings the idle down. Check by throwing into a bowl of hot water, the pin should extend. This has been known to fix dodgy units as it 'resets' the wax apparently!

Autochoke:

Should get 12v with the ignition on & engine is cold, should switch off when the engine is up to temp. (controlled by the red sender, see below)

The autochoke should pass current, test by placing one prong of a multimeter on the plug, and the other on the autochoke housing.

You can check the autochoke heater visually by removing it and checking the heater spring around the outside of the unit, looks like the kind of spring you find in a ball point pen. When refitting, align the mark on the housing with the notch on the choke.

Temperature Senders:

At the front of the engine block there are 2 temperature senders, red & grey. The red sender controlls the autochoke, the grey controls the inlet manifold preheater. When the engine is cold these should pass current, when the engine has warmed up they should stop passing current. You can test units from the scrap yard by putting them in a tray filled with boiling water (just immerse the metal bit at the bottom!) to make sure they switch off correctly.

Last but by no means least, the inlet manifold coolant channel o'ring, the o'ring degrades over time eventually blocking the coolant channel completely. Often overlooked this is key to having a 2e2 carb that actually works! If this coolant channel is blocked expect poor running when cold, smoking, petrol smells, engine overruns and having the engine rev up to 1.5k+ at random until the engine is VERY hot.

Before you start, MAKE SURE you can reach ALL 6 bolts on the inlet, the third one from the right is wedged between the inlet and exhaust manifolds and is tricky to get to. You need a long thin extension bit to get them off, its tricky but once you've done it you'll never forget how

You'll need a new gasket and the o'ring, part 32 in the diagram below.

026 129 717 D - Gasket - 5.32+VAT

035 121 171 C - o'ring - 2.70+VAT

First take the carb off:

Remove the airbox

Remove the fuel line from the carb

unplug the 2 electrical bits on the left side at the back

remove the earth connection from the front

Unplug the vacuum connection to the green reservoir

Remove the coolant connection to the inlet manifold

Remove 3 securing bolts

Check the condition of all the vacuum pipes, do one at a time its a bit complex back there

That should give you enough slack to move the carb over to the right out the way, next get the manifold off:

Undo all 6 bolts, remove manifold.

Then lever out the knackered old oring and clean up the hole it came out of. While you're here check the inlet manifold preheater. Then fit the new gasket & oring, refitting is the reverse of removal?

Edit: Whilst you're there you might want to replace the core plugs that are only accessible when manifold is off. (thanks for the tip pmhpmh!)

Vacuum diagrams:

Rear of carb, the tube in the red circle is where the vacuum pipe to the airbox connects:

Vacuum overview:

Stage II vacuum control unit:

1. Thermo-pneumatic valve

2. Restrictor

3. Straight connection hose

Stage ll vacuum control unit

1 This device is fitted to 1.6 litre manual gearbox models and 1.8 automatic gearbox models from August 1984 on. Its function is to delay the Stage ll opening slightly whilst the coolant temperature is below 18°C. It achieves this by venting the vacuum hose via the thermo-pneumatic valve and the resistor (see illustration).

2 Check that the straight hose at connection 3 on the thermo-pneumatic valve is not blocked and check the valve itself by blowing through it. It should be open at 18°C and close when the temperature rises above 28°C.

[Will_R]

Thanks man, i'll have a good read at the weekend. If you do sell the weber round crimbo, give us a shout

Cheers Will

[RobinJI]

Rather sadly, for various reasons the polo's destined for the scrap yard once its been gutted for parts. Give me a shout if anyone wants anything, got everything but the bodywork and tyres.

More happily, I've now got an F plate 3 door golf, only a 1.3, but its great condition and handles like a beast on coilovers. I'll get some pictures up when I've taken some. Its LOW, very low, asin, at the bottom of the threads on the coilys! propper tucked look. Can't put up with the ride for comuting though, so gunna have to bring it back up about 20mm at least.

Basterding roof racks are expencive for late spec MK2's though! stupid non existant gutters!

Not really sure what my plans are yet, its staying as it is untill summer, but then its time to get rid of those measily 40KWs! My initial thoughts are to do something rather different in the way of an eatoned mk4 polo 1.6, mainly because of the weight, and more modern engine design, or maybe even an eatoned polo/lupo GTI 1.6 16V.

Meh, got a while to think about it.

[nmt_oli]

Rather sadly, for various reasons the polo's destined for the scrap yard once its been gutted for parts. Give me a shout if anyone wants anything, got everything but the bodywork and tyres.

More happily, I've now got an F plate 3 door golf, only a 1.3, but its great condition and handles like a beast on coilovers. I'll get some pictures up when I've taken some. Its LOW, very low, asin, at the bottom of the threads on the coilys! propper tucked look. Can't put up with the ride for comuting though, so gunna have to bring it back up about 20mm at least.

Basterding roof racks are expencive for late spec MK2's though! stupid non existant gutters!

Not really sure what my plans are yet, its staying as it is untill summer, but then its time to get rid of those measily 40KWs! My initial thoughts are to do something rather different in the way of an eatoned mk4 polo 1.6, mainly because of the weight, and more modern engine design, or maybe even an eatoned polo/lupo GTI 1.6 16V.

Meh, got a while to think about it.

Sounds tasty robin. I will be putting the KR and bike carbs in mine over christmas, if you wanna come over we can stick my 1.6 in yours if you like! instant 99bhp/104ft lbs.

[Dai the Socket]

If anyone is looking to buy a mk4 golf give me a shout

How much? Details

[Fish-Finger-er]

thinking about joining the vdub club pretty soon, seen some really nice caddys of late and think i could make one on the cheap. at the moment its just a pipe dream, but atm im paying off me debts by about £350 a month, and saving £500 + a month(this month ive payed £350 off my debts, saved £500, and still have about £600 left after spending £200 + on clothes, and its almost halfway through the month) meaning if i get the audi, and then continue to pay me debts off + save, by february ill be debt free and have a couple of k saved up (not to mention i just totally forgot ill have the bmw for sale soon, which should see me at least £1000)

so plan is,

caddy.

some sort of golf gti engine, although unsure really thinking a 1.8 16v'er would be good (although wondering how much work it would be to shoehorn a

vr6 in there out of a scrapper/wrote off car(buy it and break it)

flipped + welded rear axle

lower the front down on coilovers

some small 15" ronals, or some deep dish euro affair, or possibly 15" chromes(as much as i hate chromes, it does look good on the right caddy)

wood decked rear(saw it in this months golf + the other day, looked the nuts)

then some white or white/black or silver/black imitation leather or imitation suede/imitation leather buckets. retrim the doorcards to match. rub down fill and smooth the dash and spray it white. stick a racing wheel in there, new automotive carpet in there.

bodywork wise, just make it smooth, colour coded, maybe copy oli and whack some audi handles on there(if i go for chrome wheels, obviously ill get chrome handles) or some other handle transplant.

and a pair of thesemaltese cross mirros.

then paint it all up, dependant on budget, going either for some home made matte/satin job(most likely a dark red), or a dark blue painted job(similar to the beemer, but darker) or possibly a vinyl wrap.

as i say its only a pipe dream, but paint and rear decking excluding, it should be able to be done for sub £2500 (£1000 on the vehicle, £500 at most on the wheels, £200 ish on suspension(although ill most likely just trawl ebay for some front coilovers from a rear ended golf/go lookin at scrappies for the same)£350 on the interior(buckets will only be a £200 reclining ebay jobbie)say £350 on bodywork, and then £300 left to cover any other bits . but ive massively overestimated the cost of everything(As the chances of me spending £500 on wheels are none existant,some vinyl, some fibreglass, and some filler/interior paint paint and a bit of carpet are gunna cost closer to £70 than £150) and bodywork will be like on the bmw, all done by me, so its cost of fibreglass and filler, and whatever handles/replacement panels etc i need to stick on there) and i doubt ill be paying 1k for the vehicle if im gunna be doing welding to it, i might as well buy summit with panel damage/rusted panels)

just need a project to stop me wrecking the new car, whatever it may be(a3/signum)

[Caleb]

could even put some 944/968 seats in there, all electric and look brilliant, would be around the same price too real leather>imitiition . . .

[Fish-Finger-er]

could even put some 944/968 seats in there, all electric and look brilliant, would be around the same price too real leather>imitiition . . .

yea, sounds cool, although i think if i do it, (theres nothing to stop me, other than either a brand new enduro bike, 4 weeks in australia, or a supersports bike, which this ideas got to compete with) i want a mainly white interior, just for the hell of it/ to make it more showy, the more i think about it, the more doable it is, but then £2500 is also enough to turn the a3 if i get it, into a total weapon (considering iv factored spending £1500 or so on it on a cc remap, water injection, got some second hand 17's lined up, some good rubber, some coilovers etc) take out the water injection, and the remap, and i could just send it away with £3k to a company like awesome gti, or jabbasport, and say give me big power, and come back with something of evo killing proportions.

[RobinJI]

Sounds tasty robin. I will be putting the KR and bike carbs in mine over christmas, if you wanna come over we can stick my 1.6 in yours if you like! instant 99bhp/104ft lbs.

Sounds awesome oli, not sure what my insurance company would have to say about it though. Was initialy planing to put a polo 1.6 in there in the summer, but not really sure to be honest.

[nmt_oli]

Sounds awesome oli, not sure what my insurance company would have to say about it though. Was initialy planing to put a polo 1.6 in there in the summer, but not really sure to be honest.

should be able to class it as a 1.6 gl

webber is a direct replacement, using std airbox, cam is a VAG item, exaust is VAG stuff. an assesor isnt going to pay them special attention.