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Khe Collaspe Chain


Trials Boy

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Hi

I'm going to buy a KHE Collapse chain from ebay and i was wondering if you lot could help me out.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...mMakeTrack=true

Few Questions:

1.) Will it come with the pins out or will it come with a clip link thingy?

2.) Will it be alright for stock?

3.) Will it be ok for the ratio 22:18 as its a BMX chain?

I know there stupid questions but i am just making sure. >_<

Thanks

Mat

:$

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This 1???

Few Questions:

1.) Will it come with the pins out or will it come with a clip link thingy? - No you will need a chain tool (always better that way anyway)

2.) Will it be alright for stock? - Yep says on tarty ^^^

3.) Will it be ok for the ratio 22:18 as its a BMX chain? Yar Vol i guess!

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It comes with a split link, whether you use it or not is personal preference- and unless you have a VERY big high qaulity chain tool, i suggest you use it. I wont go into details about this as the whole split link /no split link has been debated to death in previous topics, i personally do use them.

You will still need a chain tool to shorten the chain though, even if you do use the split link.

It will be fine on that ratio, and fine on stock. If your running middleburns, it may be wise getting your bashguard machined down to give more cdlearance on the inside, mines been machined and the pins are still digging slots on the inside of my bash. When Prawn put his on it was catching on his bashring causing it to be almost unrideable. That was due to burrs though, a file soon sorted that out.

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It comes with a split link, whether you use it or not is personal preference- and unless you have a VERY big high qaulity chain tool, i suggest you use it. I wont go into details about this as the whole split link /no split link has been debated to death in previous topics, i personally do use them.

You will still need a chain tool to shorten the chain though, even if you do use the split link.

It will be fine on that ratio, and fine on stock. If your running middleburns, it may be wise getting your bashguard machined down to give more cdlearance on the inside, mines been machined and the pins are still digging slots on the inside of my bash. When Prawn put his on it was catching on his bashring causing it to be almost unrideable. That was due to burrs though, a file soon sorted that out.

What about turning the chain over? Cos theres one side with no pins sticking out for grinding?

Thanks for the help mate. Really helped (Y)

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What about turning the chain over? Cos theres one side with no pins sticking out for grinding?

What do you mean? Im pretty sure the pins stick out an equal amount each side! the head of the pin has to stick out unless its countersunk or somehting :S Its only like half a mm, but still enough to gradually scrape away your bashgaurd.

The split link should be put on a certain way, other wise it will catch on the bash and break- if you have the clip facing inside, towards the wheel all is good, have the clip facing out towards the bash, it will get damaged.

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What do you mean? Im pretty sure the pins stick out an equal amount each side! the head of the pin has to stick out unless its countersunk or somehting :S Its only like half a mm, but still enough to gradually scrape away your bashgaurd.

The split link should be put on a certain way, other wise it will catch on the bash and break- if you have the clip facing inside, towards the wheel all is good, have the clip facing out towards the bash, it will get damaged.

Cheers. This is what they said on ebay:

The Collapse Pro chain.

» new superstrong and lightweight pro chain

» Weight 389gs/0.86lbs

» one side straight links for grinding

» 1/2" x 1/8"

» holds up to 14.710 newton

» runs perfectly on 9T drivers (check out die Hure)

What does that mean then?

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Ahh! look at the pic of the chain- the inner edges (chain ring/sproket side) are curved to allwo it to easily bend around gears, the other edges are flat. its to help prevent damge and stuff when grinding ona bmx. In contrast MTB chains are curved on both upper and lower edges.

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Ahh! look at the pic of the chain- the inner edges (chain ring/sproket side) are curved to allwo it to easily bend around gears, the other edges are flat. its to help prevent damge and stuff when grinding ona bmx. In contrast MTB chains are curved on both upper and lower edges.

Oh right, same with the Kool.

I am scott-mad :-

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It'll be fine with that ratio. It's specifically made to be able to run 25:9, so it'll be fine with 22:18.

As someone said, the outer profile of it forms a flat shape. They are pretty wide though, just 'cos they're burly. Still light-ish though. Not much more than a Kool, but 12% stronger. All good?

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It'll be fine with that ratio. It's specifically made to be able to run 25:9, so it'll be fine with 22:18.

As someone said, the outer profile of it forms a flat shape. They are pretty wide though, just 'cos they're burly. Still light-ish though. Not much more than a Kool, but 12% stronger. All good?

Cheers guys, bought one now. Should be here Tuesday. :)

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I really didn't get on with this chain, partly my own fault, but know quite a few people with similar (negative) opinions...

Starters I found they just rusted really easily, I did clean and lube it a few times in the (just under) 4 months I had it, but even when I cleaned and lubed it properly, it rusted really quickly.

The stiff links!! :angry: The entire chain was stiff, even though I loosened every link a few times, it was horrible, just so unsmooth and nasty.

Then it snapped.

[attachmentid=2811]

Now running a KMC Kool, soooo much smoother.

I think a KMC, replace it every 3 - 4 months > *.

(Y)

post-715-1142115904_thumb.jpg

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Haha, kudos for getting some artfag in a chain topic :P

Yeah, on the trials bike I had 4 or 5 stiff links, but sorted them, I think.

I only sorted them though after one of the rollers cracked 'cos the stiff link (possibly from where I joined it :$) that was uber stiff tore it a new anus.

I'm well anal about chains though, and 'cos it's had one failure (the roller) and 'cos I didn't join it last time (Mat did. Not saying Mat can't join chains, but I worry about shit :P) I'm thinking of gettig a new one. I'd rather pay £14 every 4 or 5 months than repeating the joy of the chainsnap over the step gap at Lloyds ;) <- That snap was a PC-7X. One of my Kools broke riding up a hill, and one broke doing something else, can't remember what...

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I'd never run one after hearing fat mike's chain eat his 'burn superpro bash, sound made me cringe, haha.

I've ran KMC K810's for years now, they're excellent chains. BMXers complain because the links look silly and get caught and ripped off on stuff when grinding, but it's not a prob for us trials riders.

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Mike, i think you may just have been unlucky. Yes you do need to machine a middleburn bash to run it nicely, as it is WIDE, i have already had some machined off the inside of my bash, and it still rubs.

I have had no rust problems, nor any stiff links- - shortened it once to correct length, and joined with split link, so all joins are factory, and none were tight. Very odd.

The chain is big, and i would trust it more than most- but i don't tend to worry about chains as i have only ever snapped a shimano chain! either i dont go big enough, or i just keep my chains in good nick!

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are people talking about the super pro bash or normal bas - i run mine with a normal bash with a middleburn ring (flipped over) with no probs and no stiff links! Great chain imo, will be getting another when the leeson comes back. In fact I prefer it too the kool, which went really sloppy and it found is a bit more stretchy. both good though :)

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