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Disc Grind


coolbeen

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Disks need a smooth braking surface, because of their compound of their pads.

If you had a "grind" on your rotor, the pads will just file down straight away and make ALOT of dust... lol

And also your brake wouldnt work, and would just make a very loud squeek! lol

Anyways, disks these days work well enough...

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As mat correctly said, disks stop using a different principal of physics. I cant remember what it is,

if your really bothered look on wikipedia, but the simple answer is it won't work well.

A mate of mine did grind his rotors, the brakes still seemed to work. Not reccomended though.

And besides that, what's actually wrong with disks stopping power as it is?

Edited by adamtrials
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if you cant be bothered to read that it basicaly comes down to surface area a grind on a rim means the rubber like goes in and the surface area is increase there for the surface area but with a disc the hard pads wouldnt sink in meaning your only decreasing surface area and there for friction.

ben

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There are two very different sorts of braking friction - abrasive friction and adherent friction. Abrasive friction involves the breaking of the crystalline bonds of both the pad material and the cast iron of the disc. The breaking of these bonds generates the heat of friction. In abrasive friction, the bonds between crystals of the pad material (and, to a lesser extent, the disc material) are permanently broken. The harder material wears the softer away (hopefully the disc wears the pad). Pads that function primarily by abrasion have a high wear rate and tend to fade at high temperatures. When these pads reach their effective temperature limit, they will transfer pad material onto the disc face in a random and uneven pattern. It is this "pick up" on the disc face that both causes the thickness variation measured by the technicians and the roughness or vibration under the brakes reported by the drivers.

With adherent friction, some of the pad material diffuses across the interface between the pad and the disc and forms a very thin, uniform layer of pad material on the surface of the disc. As the friction surfaces of both disc and pad then comprise basically the same material, material can now cross the interface in both directions and the bonds break and reform. In fact, with adherent friction between pad and disc, the bonds between pad material and the deposits on the disc are transient in nature - they are continually being broken and some of them are continually reforming.

There is no such thing as pure abrasive or pure adherent friction in braking. With many contemporary pad formulas, the pad material must be abrasive enough to keep the disc surface smooth and clean. As the material can cross the interface, the layer on the disc is constantly renewed and kept uniform - again until the temperature limit of the pad has been exceeded or if the pad and the disc have not been bedded-in completely or properly.

So basically, if you grind, then you are just using abrasive friction which will be ineffective and destroy the pads very fast.

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Grinding disc's then huh i think there was a topic like a this a while back and apperently at can wear down your disc pads. I wouldnt try it but a friend of mine called sam barratt says if you cook your disc rotor the heat or something gets to it to make a great braking performance. He's never tried though like but some people use to use iron bru on the disc so it makes a better braking performance so you could try that but what ever you do dont use tar on your rotor.

Cheers Andy

P.S what disc brake are you running on your bike?

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Grinding disc's then huh i think there was a topic like a this a while back and apperently at can wear down your disc pads. I wouldnt try it but a friend of mine called sam barratt says if you cook your disc rotor the heat or something gets to it to make a great braking performance. He's never tried though like but some people use to use iron bru on the disc so it makes a better braking performance so you could try that but what ever you do dont use tar on your rotor.

Cooking the rotor is for when youve got oil on the rotor and pads...

What i still dont get is why you'd want to improve the power of disks?

They are already powerful enough...

I know for sure though, if you want an immense disk brake put the rotor in a microwave for 5 minutes,

works like a charm... B)

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Cooking the rotor is for when youve got oil on the rotor and pads...

What i still dont get is why you'd want to improve the power of disks?

They are already powerful enough...

I know for sure though, if you want an immense disk brake put the rotor in a microwave for 5 minutes,

works like a charm... B)

Wouldnt it spark? :o:huh: ?or make it radioactive?? :blink: A suppose if it glowed green it would be pretty cool. :P

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Wouldnt it spark? :o:huh: ?or make it radioactive?? :blink: A suppose if it glowed green it would be pretty cool. :P

Thats what i was thinking mr adam trials cause say if you put foil in the microwave that causes sparks n when you put other metal/steel materials it sparks so a disc rotor would spark. Hmmm what if we sent something off to brainiac science abuse to see if they test it out lmao. :lol:

Cheers Andy

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It wont work fo the simple fact that disc pads are Ceremetalic.

Unlike normal rubber pads, like Rim brakes, they are made using metal filings.

They use the High co-efficiant of friction between 2 metals to crate stopping power.

They have all the holes and vents to aid cooling, as metal-metal contact creates alot of heat.

If you where to run on a rough suface you would loose the direct metal-metal contact and you would destroy the pads quickly

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