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The Mother Of All Rims


Glass

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A few years ago there was a kit available to run 2 chains, mbuk reviewed it.

It was pretty expensive, as well as being heavy and total overkill...

The same guy did it as a kit i believe - his name was matt and was from bristol.... used to ride with him quite abit until he gave up / moved away. He really did need two chains - he was like 100 stone when he started out and broke chains like a badboy. After he did the 2 chains thing he never broke them. 2 chains = no chain stretch = super low wear rate = no snapped chains = many years riding.... oh also he actually had it running with 3 gears and a modified mech.

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Awesome. So 2 chains on one side. I was thinking chains on both sides.

Also could be done, but would involve BMX cranks and hub. Or 2 drive side cranks and lots of thread-lock on the pedal. The Chain ring on each side is easy, either a BMX crank set with drive bolts on both sides or 2 right hand drive normal cranks with a right pedal on the left with lots of thread-lock, but the hubs a bit harder, while there are loads of left hand drive, good cassette hubs (profile) I'm not aware of one with left and right hand drive. All I can think of is a flip-flop hub with left hand thread on one side and right hand on the other, as far as I know you can only get those in micro-drive. But the 2 freewheels may not engage at exactly the same time, and I don't think there are any left hand drive, micro-drive freewheels available that could stand up to trials.

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... At wich point, you knock your head on the desk and say "Why the f**k not weld two narrow 24" rims and run them on a bmx hub (or other hub with lots of holes)". Wouldn't a tire with a harder cassing solve your problem instead of adding a metric ton to your bike ?

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... At wich point, you knock your head on the desk and say "Why the f**k not weld two narrow 24" rims and run them on a bmx hub (or other hub with lots of holes)". Wouldn't a tire with a harder cassing solve your problem instead of adding a metric ton to your bike ?

Ok first off if I were to run a 24x65mm rim on my Koxx Levelboss 1100 frame then there would be no problem in fitting it in the chainstays. Cause remember the chainstays get WIDER the FURTHER away from BB you get not NARROWER (BB is 68mm and rear hub is 135mm).

Now would running a heavier tyre solve my problem? Yes but no but yes but no...

Err I am using a Kenda 2.5 Nevegal which is 1150g it is already beefy not as stiff as say those silly mod tyres (19"x2.6 1100g) but as stiff as say a highroller 26x2.5. With this tyre on my 38mm rim i still feel some tyre flex which is why i want a wider rim. Perhaps all I really need is a 24x47mm rim (Kris holms) but I find the ideia of going 65mm very appealing (-the cost).

As for going stiffer than the normal DH tyre well I don't think you have much choice say apart from Intense but they only make a 24x3.0 which i find TOO heavy. Nokian Gazzaloddi though taller and slighly heavier (the 2.6) are don't have a stiffer casing than the kenda. I have had one and I find the rubber durometer to be too hard. The Nokian 3.0 is better (super cushy like a mod rear tyre) but too heavy.

Then there also the fact that I think a 1100g tyre is too heavy for natural anyways (what I mainly do)! So for natural i run a 600g tyre which of course flexs even more than the Kenda! So its either cough up the money and go 65mm and after drilling still add a few hundread grams to the bike or go 47mm save some dough and forget that i could have gone 65mm :P

I think the money is what is going to decide this in the end or my lack of it! haha

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Don't know if they are available in Europe, but theese tires have some of the hardest cassings around, plus alot are available in 24". You might want to check for a shop near you to check them out. I have a 2.75 prime bite, I don't ride it anymore, but they have the sides of the tires are as hard if not harder then the actual rolling surface. It took me about 15mins [don't remember exactcly but I was sweating...] to get them on or off, to give you an idea...

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I've had a Arrow Prime Bite 24x2.75 both in normal casing (~1000g) and the DH casing (~1300g). I know exactly how much of a b*tch it is to remove the DH one!!! The problem with these tyres is that they are super low i.e. they have very little height. They are basically XC like tyres with huge side knobs to get their 66mm (2.6) width. So they are crap for trials. I'm talking ofcourse about the 24" cause I've seen some of the 26" and they seem to be taller.

As for buying them here in Europe I dunno about nowadays but back in the late 90s when I ordered them I got them direct from the arrowracing website. I also got one of the last Mavic Xy 24" rims (which I still use as a front rim) and a free T shirt (which I still use).

And I have got a Maxxis Highroller 24x2.5 and on my 38mm I still feel flex on it! post-1103-1168346330_thumb.jpg

But yeah 47mm maybe sufficient...

post-1103-1168346377_thumb.jpg

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