ClarkeHutchison Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 please, please dont grind the rims Unfortunately I will be grinding them, will still look good as not as easy to notice as when black rims are ground. Axle could be very slightly bent dude, it only has to be microns out due to the tolerances involved with bearing. Either that or the bearing isn't seated in the hub body properly, and may need a light crack with a socket and a dead blow hammer to seat it properly. That's how I do mine, never failed me yet I've tried shocking the bearings into place with a hammer and it didn't help at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niconj Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Are you referring to lubing up the thread to help stop spoke twist? If so yes. I tend to put a small bit of grease on the spoke thread, helps the thread run freely to stop it binding and twisting the nipple. The nipples NiconJ is referring to don't claim to anything more than help align the nipple and the spoke thread by having a more rounded "ball joint" profile to the nipple. No manufacturer claims about slippery coatings or such. Can see some merit in those nipples, but never heard of anyone using grease or lube to aid the seating of the spoke or nipple heads. De-stressing the wheel properly after you first true and tension it should do the same thing. I didn't say that Sapim claimed that. It's just my personal experience. I have build 20 wheels with these nipples and know what I'm talking about. Using those nipples you don't need any grease, oil or whatever. I'd even go as far as to say that if you need DT Prolock nipples to make the wheel stay true, you don't really know how to build a wheel. If the spoke tension is homogeneous, there's no need for those gimmicks. Does anyone have any idea of whats going on and how i could fix it? Had this problem with my trialtech hub. The axle stops were too close so that the bearings couldn't touch them. As soon as I tightened the wheel, they were deformed in direction of the axle stop and the wheel didn't spin freely anymore. I had to get the bearings out and put 2 0.2mm washers on each axle stop so that the bearing was seated correctly. Spins fin now no matter how tight I tighten the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Had this problem with my trialtech hub. The axle stops were too close so that the bearings couldn't touch them. As soon as I tightened the wheel, they were deformed in direction of the axle stop and the wheel didn't spin freely anymore. I had to get the bearings out and put 2 0.2mm washers on each axle stop so that the bearing was seated correctly. Spins fin now no matter how tight I tighten the bolts. I'll give that a try, Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niconj Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 I'll give that a try, Thanks No problem. Also, to true your wheel you could've just screwed your TPA in and see where the wheel scrapes at the brake pads. Better than marking the tyre which in itself could be "buckled". Of course that doesn't mean that your wheel is centered, using the brake pad method, but at least it's true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 (edited) Bike built up and ready to ride. Featuring some funky rim tape Thanks to all the sellers who I bought parts off, all very helpful, except from a certain bloke who i wont name............. Gary Sanderson) SPEC : Frame and Forks - Frame: Rockman Aurem 4 - Forks: Trialtech Sport Light HS33 Wheels - Front Hub: Trialtech Proto Unbranded (Ti Bolts) - Rear Hub: Echo TR 135 (Ti Bolts) - Front Rim: Trialtech Sport Light - Rear Rim: Trialtech Sport Light - Front Spokes: Sapim Race - Rear Spokes: Sapim Race - Front Nipples: Sapim - Rear Nipples: VIZ Alloy - Front Innertube: Maxxis Welterweight - Rear Innertube: Kenda XL - Front Tyre: Continental Mountain King 2.2 - Rear Tyre: Continental Der Kaiser 2.5 Brakes - Front Brake: Magura HS11 2011 (4 finger lever + Trialtech Splitter) - Rear Brake: Magura HS11 2011 (4 finger lever) - Front Pads: TNN LGM Green - Rear Pads: TNN ADM - Front Clamps: Magura (Ti Bolts) - Rear Clamps: Magura (Ti Bolts) - Slaves- Magura 05 (Rawed) Drivetrain - Cranks: Try-All ISIS 175 - Freewheel: Echo SL 108 - Chain Tensioner: Echo Smooth Snail Cams - Rear Sprocket: Echo TR (15t) - Pedals: Echo TR Platform - Bottom Bracket: Trialtech Sport Light ISIS - Bashring: Try-All Symetrik Steering - Handlebar: Trialtech SL Carbon - Stem: Try-All 3D 150x30 - Headset: Echo SL - Grips: Trialtech Foam Geometry: - Wheelbase: 1100mm - Chainstay length: 380mm - BB Rise: 70mm - Head angle: 71° - Reach : 660mm Weight - 9.24 kg Edit: Rims have now been grinded. Edited September 25, 2014 by ClarkeHutchison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Gibbs Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 That's gorgeous man! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Hard work paid off dude. Nice to see it built up and really enjoyed reading the thread. obviously because it's very me thread esq 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Cheers for the comments, it's my first build thread (hopefully of many), as I love building up bikes from nothing. My front wheel hub is still very stiff when the bolts are tightened, I tried putting a spacer inside the hub stops so that the bearings were sitting better but it didn't help at all. I'm starting to think the axle may be slightly bent. Any suggestions are welcome? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Looks great! Dunno about the half and half rim tape though. What made you mod the tyres? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niconj Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 (edited) I tried putting a spacer inside the hub stops so that the bearings were sitting better but it didn't help at all. I'm starting to think the axle may be slightly bent. Any suggestions are welcome? I had to try 3 times until I got the right number of spacers needed. I think I put 3x0.2mm on each axle stop. When you got the bearings out were they running smoothly? The bike looks ace. I'd go for a black crossover on the front brake or even a Y splitter though. What made you mod the tyres? Weight weenie probably. Edited September 26, 2014 by niconj 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disc.Jokie. Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Weight weenie probably. cant be that, a weight weenie wouldn't buy a kaiser in the fist place. most likley because of the extra bounce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Looks great! Dunno about the half and half rim tape though. What made you mod the tyres? I was waiting on parts, so I was bored and curious of how much weight it actually saves. @niconj I'll try what you said and yes the bearings were running smooth. Also i am hoping to get a splitter on the front brake at some point.cant be that, a weight weenie wouldn't buy a kaiser in the fist place. most likley because of the extra bounce The bounce is another reason, but saving weight, while not hampering performance is a no brainer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niconj Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 (edited) I was waiting on parts, so I was bored and curious of how much weight it actually saves. @niconj I'll try what you said and yes the bearings were running smooth. Also i am hoping to get a splitter on the front brake at some point. Oh... I forgot. An easy way to find out whether you need some more spaces is to try moving the axle from side to side as if trying to pull it out. If it moves only slightly you most certainly know that it's the axle stops' distance. Edited September 26, 2014 by niconj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Bike is now for sale, have a look if your interested: http://tinyurl.com/o9jpe5e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
683599 Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 NB hey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niconj Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 Bike is now for sale, have a look if your interested: http://tinyurl.com/o9jpe5e Link doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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