Alex Dark

yep a new hub is needed if it isnt disc compatible

i might be going......looks pretty cool....but i really want to go riding there as well, but it doesnt look like thats gonna happen

Post mount or international standard on caliper? Post mount or international standard on fork/frame? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categor...ssion=PRICE_ASC http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categor...?CategoryID=563

yeh same, no-one ever seems to take it up.....so, if anyones reading this and wants some...send a SAE to Alex Dark, Kenna Coombe, Lostwithiel, Cornwall, PL22 0LW

I run 18/16....18/14 would be way too tough for me

ah right...yep, i remember now, i force you into it.....its not like you just sit there eating!

yeh i thought he did as well...... I really dont like high bb stocks to be honest....anything from +10 to +30 is just peachy for me.....id just go and try some other peoples bikes out

1065 385cs i think? Lovely little bikes, looks a wee bit like my woodstock....... really nice build you've got there

gcse's were a joke for me....during all the study leave n stuff i went down to the beach, was so sweet...then 3 days before exam, revised like mad and got 5 A's, 3 B's and 2 C's

damn straight....freewheels are cheaper, easier to maintain, lighter, better eps ( 72 ep eno/ 108 ep tryall versus 48 engagement pro2 ), stronger rear wheel build quote: tarty: - Super wide flange spacing offers the strongest wheelbuild possible

its true...just get the best you can afford...and id advise going second hand...and maybe ask peples opinions on that bike

Id get either the high roller, minion or the hansventure...theyre all really good tyres, as long as you get the dual ply supersticky

is it 05 or 04 style? either way ill try and help... For an 04 you need to undo the 5mm allen key bolt that holds the blade on....take the bolt out and pull the blade off with the tpa and piston pokey bit ( you'll know what i mean when you see it )....now disconnect the main hydraulic line with an 8mm spanner....then geta small allen key, poke it through the bleed hole or the line connection hole.....now put some pressurte on it and the piston should just pop out...once out, you have to clean the inside of the lever bodya dn the piston....use some kitchen roll and wd40 for both...take the o-ring off the pistona nd check to make sure it's not damaged....if not then lube it up with a smear of vaseline and put it back together.....if its knacked...go donw to your local hardware shop and take th o-ring with and you buy one. For an 05 you need to undo the 5mm allen key bolt that holds the blade on....take the bolt out and pull the blade off with the tpa and piston pokey bit ( you'll know what i mean when you see it )....now take the bleed screw out with a 5mm allen key....you now need to have either some very strong hand or nole grips / vice / adjustable spanner etc. Put a pair of pads in the magura then use your chosen tool to clamp the pad to the slave piston so it cannot move. You now need to get a bleed kit and connect it to the bleed bolt.....fill the syringe with water, then force it into the lever body...the slave pads wont move, so effectively sealing the system, and the piston will pop out.....once out, you have to clean the inside of the lever bodya dn the piston....use some kitchen roll and wd40 for both...take the o-ring off the pistona nd check to make sure it's not damaged....if not then lube it up with a smear of vaseline and put it back together.....if its knacked...go donw to your local hardware shop and take th o-ring with and you buy one. When you think you've checked the o-ring and lubed / cleaned everything, whack it all back together. I personally like to pressure-test my brakes once this is done. basically.....have the brake fully assembled, and stick some kind of clamping device that will hold the pads into the slave, stopping their movement out wards...now, while attempting to watch all the connections, pull hard on the lever....im not talking like a complete retard with every ounce of power....just gradually apply the pressure until you think its enough ( or your hand hurts )...at this stage something usually leaks....now retighten the barb / olive if its at fault, replace the lever o-ring, replace the knackered hosing , replace the faulty slave cylinder, bodge the tpa etc ( delete as applicable ). No repsonsibility is taken for you pulling the brake like a native and breaking it so be careful...... I think that post is worthy of validation...if i wasn't already validated WIKI?

ill be out on the sunday and the monday...filming on the sunday

its a heavy old tyre for the front! On the rear mines been amazing...awesome grip, cheap as chips and only one puncture ( 5 months ) from some glass....

"sorry this item cannot be found" I guess you were referring to the echo forged cranks etc...pretty good buy, but if at all possible id go with the cnc'd

eg front freewheel cranks...like the echo cnc'd etc

er i could get a picture soon....its on my mates bike...it just bolts straight on... But there is a clever bodge to get it to work....let me paint you a picture

erm...no not really...they have the same sort of system as a hope...or an rb lever blade

right...echo cnc cranks = ...really awesome value, i love mine 22-16 i think is a bit harsh gearing ( 36.3 ) whereas the normal 18-16 is ( 29.7 ) and the other common 18-15 is ( 31.7 ) all values in gear inches by the way, from sheldonbrown.com...so the ideal would be about 22-20 ratio. ( 29.1 ) You could buy a single speed kit like this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2300 but with a larger rear cog from an old cassette On the onza hitman; i would say upgrade the rear hub....a second hand pro2 could cost as little as £60...................................pm me for the link

They lack power because they have a larger master piston, and a flexy composite ( plastic ) lever with an alloy blade However; an hs33 lever with hs11 slaves = hs33 brake......although 04 hs33 lever body + hs11 blade = absurdly powerful brake due to increased leverage

Get some good quality lithium grease, strip apart the headset ( if its caged bearings ) into its componet parts, clean and regrease everything and put it back in the same order...then tighten your top cap bolt to perload the headset ( tighten until the bearings feel notchy then back it off 1/2 a turn ) then tighten your stem bolts to clamp the steerer.... If its cartridge bearings you could do a me....prise the o-ring off, shake all the trillions of minute bearings into a yoghurt pot then repeat as for the caged bearings....bear in mind theyre are quite hard to seat all of them at the same time....and do one cup at a time

that video doesnt really show the performane of the pads....i mean koolstops on a smooth rim woul;d have stood up to that... get some proper riding in that proves the pad performance....if you can then ill buy some providing you sell rubber only and at a resonable price

i actually really liked that; really brilliant editing.....helps that its got a woodstock in it ;0) Nice one!