spaceman

Well, the chain sticks out just a weeny bit. But I have yet to bash the bash yet. I'm still waiting for the screwed sprockets to arrive. Either running a 17:13 or 18:14. What do you suggest for the ratio?

Still with me, might swap with my friends quite brand new 04 maggy. Worst, after having bought some koolstop pads to use temporary, the dengura pistons doesn't come out as much as the maggy, it can't even touch my rim. Not that my rim is narrow, but it's around the same width as the rhynolite which is what many riders are running.

Well, my frame arrived on Tuesday, and here are the pics! I have a saddle, but no money to get seat post and clamp! More pics available at http://vinceinspired.multiply.com/photos/album/3 Here are the specs: Frame: 24UK mk2 Fork: Echo pure (only model available at my side currently, wanted to get the urban at first) Headset: Cane Creek S8 Stem: Blk Mrkt 50mm x 12 degree Bar: Blk Mrkt 3 inch Crankset: Echo with GU bash and zhi BB Brakes: stock Shimano Saints with XT rotors Rims: DM24s (wanted to get DX32 for rear, but no stock at my side) Hubs: Hope Pro 2 for front, Pro 2 Trials for rear Spokes: DT swiss comp Tyres: Kenda K-rads (left over from street bike) I've got a dengura for the rear, but the coust pads can't fit in. Lucky I still have my rear disc from my old mtb street bike. Next upgrade would be a maggy! and some knobby tyres. Pardon the stacks on the steerer, I'm still experimenting on the stack. Is my chain length ok? Or I could do away with one or two links? (I'm not too sure of the strength of this chain - it was the only one left in the shop) And my gear ratio is 21:14 (21T is the only available screwed sprocket at my side currently). I find the ratio a little too high. Will change to 16T soon.

I have Pro Engineer! But I'm too lazy to start off.

Is there a "proper" technique to apply the tar? I used to spin my wheels, and dab the tar on it while it's spinning - a fast way of applying. Sometimes I also draw lines (diagonal) on the rims with the tar, about 2cm gap.

I guess you are referring to the trials version? I've tried it on my friend's bike. It's pretty good. I'm not sure of the price at your side, but it's worth the buy (my side doesn't have a wide range of freewheels, so WI is good enough)

I would get the 2 inch deity if I were you.

Especially your back. I have 2 friends who have been riding trials for over 10 years, now they're approaching 30. They have back problems. One of them has slipped disc. But IMO, there's no such thing as being too old to start something. I hope you enjoy trials!

Forget about the website. (I'm Chinese and that whole chunk of Chinese text makes me dizzy when I try to read it, LOL) Just add the owner Colin on msn (colin_52bike@hotmail.com). He could type in English. Hope this helps.

I like the white and green. Makes me kinda "regret" getting blue parts for my white frame.

Hehe, I ride alone too. This is because there's really no one in my estate, and in the next estate, and the estate after that. The nearest is 15km away, and riding there isn't really a good choice - too far on 18:13! But for me, I always keep to myself and I'm a very quiet person, so riding alone works best for me. But I would be more than happy if there's company. If you still want to ride alone, just turn up your mp3 while you ride.

Manual mill is the same, just that the tolerances would differ by a lot. CNC is more accurate. Some people even manual mill brake pads. I also agree that after CNC'ing, the products should go through heat treatment - as mentioned, annealing and normalising. Though plenty of coolent is being used in the cutting, the structure of the workpiece might be changed due to the heat from the cutter. (there might be a possibility)

Hmmm... Does Deng even perform FEA on his CNC'ed products? Some CNC'ed stuffs are good, like maggy backings, etc.

What's "sidehops"?

Is that a full half-link chain you guys are using? And what rims are those? (for both bikes I mean) And nice Deity bar

My goodness, the transparent hose really rocks! You could really see the air bubbles (if any), and then you would know when to bleed them. I saw some in the hardware shops in my country. If I'm not using steel braided hose, I would definitely use the transparent hose!

For me I started trials recently, and I started off with a dengura for the rear (I got them really cheap). I haven't really tried a maggie yet, but I know that a maggy is way better (German > Chinese). Have to agree on the lines and pistons. My line broke. As for the pistons, they don't really come out much means that you can't really make full use of your pads. Probably when there's about 30-40% of pad left, you can't use them, you have to use those offset clamps (I haven't faced this problem yet, but that's what my friend said). Anyway, I would be getting myself a maggy at the next upgrade, and use back the deng lever.

New forks with CNC'ed steerer seem to taper outwards where the crown race is, which makes the race a little difficult to fit in. For me, I put the race through the steerer, then fit the fork onto the frame, and give it a few hard slams. This means the race would hit the bearings (which are already into the headset cups), and the race would be fitted onto the steerer good. Not only that, I find that the hitting force is generally equal (because it's full surface area contact).

That's a really nice set up you got in your garden!

I find that rear disc makes your riding look "smoother" because it's so silent. I tried my friends 221 Ti yesterday, and I love his Hope discs', the bite was there, and it didn't slip, not even by a bit. But for disc brake pads, once in contact with just a little bit of oil, and the power is gone. So hs33 for me, instant locking.

Wow, BMX style cranks, really streety I would say.

Hmm, can anyone tell me what frame is this?

Similar thing happened to me. Checked headset, and calipers - nothing. Rode for 15 minutes like a retard with my head down just to find out the exact source of the sound. Turns out it was the bearing on the front hub.

Haha, thanks. When would you come back to SG? Your 24uk still with you? Hope to ride with you soon, like OUB perhaps.

Can I ask why you gotten the headlock? It isn't really necessary, and heavier. All it does is to make your fork and stem more secured, and a little stronger. But people use the headlock because their steerer tube is cut too short, so the headlock does a pretty good job holding the stem securely.