Muel

The bit that slots into the frame that allows you to tension the chain. I bet you could get away just by drilling it. Saves you spending money adapting a Pro2 to take QR anyway.

Yeh mine has a Wes smooth silencer, my mates Dad once had a Pinky which was amazing, 270, shortened inlet, raised exaust port and polished all the ports, raised compression ratio. Best bike I have EVER ridden. My plan is to get the bottom end all rebuilt and perfect, and attempt to get away with new rings, then some time in the future look into modifying a 350 top end for it.

That was well worth a bump pal.

Had an amazing ride yesterday, did loads of stuff I hadn't tried before. Bike as running perfect aswell looks like I've finally got the carboration right! I've been looking into rebuilding my engine, won't cost as much as I first thought by the looks of things. Fell off three times, two were bif offs aswell, didn't even break a lever! (Think my bars are a bit bent though. ).

The technical term is to drift the innards out. I can't remember which end you do first or anything though, Hope did a video I think, but it was for the XC version.

I just used 3 in 1, works perfect. Nope, just a soft ended hammer and some wooden blocks to rest it on.

Generally speaking if a Pro2 works as it should, all is well. Mine started skipping recently and Nick Wood immediately said it would be a snapped spring. Fortunately the jammy b*****d was right, so it cost me about £2 to fix. Parts are really easy to get hold of and are dead cheap, and if you crack the hub shell or strip the drive ring or snap an axle, they tend to just warrenty them straight away. Clean it out when you get it though, the grease slowly works out of the bearings and gets into the pawls/springs. They also tend to get a lot louder with a fresh clean and some nice thin oil in there.

Pretty sure yours is an 06, and I think that all the 07s had oil instead of grease. Hope I've been helpful.

I was told by one of the tarty guys that the DMR axles don't fit in the Wellgo pedals, think it was Ali C but I'm not certain...

No, they're identical, maybe you're getting mixed up between 06 and 07+ hub shells?

Well worded Mr Boats, I wanted to say something similar but it kept sounding harsh so I gave up.

6 months ago it was winter though.

I should be alright thanks mate, I did a full rebuild on my R minus the engine, and on my S I stripped it and replaced the main bearings and seals, all the gear box bearings and the little end, also cut open and repacked the whole exaust system! Where did you get the inlet shortened though? It's something I really want to have done. Mines standard apart from 75% of the weight off the flywheel and an extended clutch arm. (Lighter than my mates Montesa TRW 4RT, bit slower though. ). Heres mine when I first got it and tarted it up: LINKY. Scroll down for more pics. One day it will get a LOT of mods done to it, I need about a grand to do everything I want to it though! 350 top end or complete 350 engineShortened inletRaised compression ratioRaised and opend exaust port, raised and polished transfer portsLower the footpegsExtend the rear shock (makes it more progressive travel)Pinky front wheel, forks and disc.TYZ rear disc Riding tommorrow!! First time in about 3 months, should be mint. I might even get serious and don my Hebo top. Mine will wheelie in fourth really well, but to get it up in fifth you have to really murder the cluch off a crest, not fun. Was yours running the 10:35 gear ratio or 11:42? I've got 10:35 so fifth gear wheelies are really fast.

Two brakes maybe?

Julien Dupont is a legend, I had one of his DVDs once.

My brothers did exactly the same thing. I spoke to supercycles but they wouldn't admit the bolts were tosh. I just replaced them with some plain old stainless steel ones, I could get them much tighter and they have been in for nearly 2 years. I wouldn't buy them off Tarty, what you need is some M5 bolts that are about 50mm long, the T-Master threads go all the way into the centre of the hub from either side if I remember rightly, so you might aswell use as much of the threads as possible to prevent it from stripping. (Aluminium axle threads are much more likely to strip with stainless bolts in there).

I'm on my second now, I had a TY250S jap import that my brothers riding now, and I have a TY250R which is an original UK one with the optional Talon front disc on it. (Apparantly it was an optional extra until the Pinkies came, then they got a far better one). I still am learning on it, it's great because it's so strong, no snapping swingarms or shite electrics for me. My current one has never broken down, it's currently got 3 cracks in the frame, they don't appear to be growing. (If any of them actually snap I can get it welded for nothing).

He said they are too far back, I.E: the chain is too short. I never had a problem with mine, I think. Can't actually remember running it with a maggy for very long, just my disc with the adapter I made.

Join a gym or get more weights first, theres not an awful lot that they'll be useful for really. EDIT: Thinking about it, you could do stuff like lateral raises, curls and flys, just depends how strong you are to start with.

Hahaha, 5:39.

I didn't find it degrading, I just laughed. The make a valid point and back it up with mild humor.

If you fancy making refills that fit Phat backings, I'll have a set!

Like that's hard. I had a 175 twinshock for my first bike, it was unbelievably slow, it had so little compression that if you braked hard in ANY gear, it would lock the rear wheel so it skidded and stalled, then would bump itself again when you took your foot of the pedal.

I would have thought that's the reason, I'm only 175.

I also have a chinning bar, depends whether you want to do chins or pull-ups really, neither can really do the other.