Muel

Torx bolts are shite if you ask me, the head strip out really easily, and they they're flat on top so you can't get the out easily. I use Stainless allen key bolts, not sure what grade, but they're strong enough to pull all the threads out of the hub before they snap!

You took the face off, I was joking? Even though in my opinion Pro2s are better than Kings. (Far Cheaper, nicer feeling freewheel, wider spoke base so the wheel build can be stronger).

I'll report back, tommorrow though I'm riding my motorbike, my pads keep coming out of the backings because I have no superglue.

An hD king weighs more than a Pro2 doesn't it? Anyway, if you're really arsed about weight, get a FFW.

I have 3in1, it's very old though. How about fork oil? It's semi-sinthetic though. I'm guessing for a maggy that you'd want "natural" oil with the seals being for mineral oil? They stand water though... 2 stroke oil maybe?

Throw it away and get a Pro 2? When hubs get that old, other stuff can go wrong, like the seat where the bearing presses into can flare out, the seat on the axle the bearing race sit on gets squished, it could prove tricky to find the cause! I'd strip it down and go through it all piece by piece, measuring for flare, cleaning everything, checking for cracks etc. Or you could just wait until it starts skipping and send it back?

Ah, I measured it out and had 500ml of 50% water 50% procool. (so 75% water 24% antifreeze), and gave it a proper big slug of washing up liquid. Any idea what the oil was? I've got various gear box oils and other stuff, would some 10w40 be rate? Or too thick?

It's a good idea, but I want to just use stuff I have here. The ProCool is fairly lubracative already, so I reckon: 4 parts water. 2 parts ProCool. 1 part oil. A squirt of washing up liquid. This will be about 10% antifreeze, as the ProCool is 50:50.

I'd say you need to stop at the edge instead of doing it in two hops, if you're already moving I reckon you'll find it harder to put all your power into the gap.

I'd get a 2 bolt, 4 bolts take more of the bite away in my experience.

Thus, cracking the frame. If the booster and frame are stiffer, more pressure gets get through the pads into the rim though, because rather than flexing the frame apart and the lever squishing to your finger, it transfers the extra pressure in the pad, deforming it more to the grind. That's my theory anyway.

08 lite then and spend the rest on a disc.

Just bled mine with plain water, the lever piston has already started to get stickied up and one of the slaves, so I'm going to give this a bosh. Any Updates Ed? Not changed it at all? Would you recomend anything different to how you did it, more oil perhaps? EDIT: I think I'll make my own up, how about 2 parts Pro-Cool, 2 parts water, a squirt of washing up liquid and one part oil sound good? EDIT2: Just replaced the water with a 2:1 mix of ProCool and water, seems alright although the pistons are reacting a bit slow... It needs a proper lubricant beause I know the lever piston was sticking with plain water. It's all pretty new, and I never bled it wth Royal Blood, just used Pro-Cool when it was new, (I built it from all new parts, slaves, lever etc.), so I'm guessing the seals havn't "worn in" yet. I need a more lubricating fluid anyway. Ed, when you stirred it up with the washing up liquid in, how did you stop it going all frothy? Mine was terrible! Maybe I used too much?

As JT says, just get a decent freewheel mate, it will make a huge difference. Next things are stuff like forks, bar, stem and tarting up the rear brake with some decent pads and stuff like that.

Looks amazing Ad! Can I have a go? Just reminded me, I need to email you again haha, yet more advice needed I'm afraid.

If that 8.16kg I'm a happy little elf. My Echo was 8.6 at it's lightest! And you've got BMX cranks, tyres and forks. Could have at least cleaned it for the pictures....

I thought it was going to be a surprise for Bristol Mackdaddy? Looks so fit though! Very light, still some weight can be saved there anyway I reckon. Definately needs white rims though, black doesn't suit it if you ask me.

No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no. No. If your spending that much, spend the extra £25 and get the XR20, they're lighter, nicer geometry and have a disc mount for when you see the light!

He was trying to help? If you don't want help then don't post up! Just in case you didn't know, TartyBikes ARE an importer, so just shafted yourself for nothing. Reported, just thought I'd say before everyone else does...

It'll be fine, as long as it's working as it should then it's alright. When it's contaminated it can make a much lower honking noise. (Only happened to me when the caliper seals blew.)

Nah, just forget about it. It might have something to do with the forks, I'm guessing it's a stock wheel? It might be that you need to apply more pressure to the pads because the ratio between rotor and wheel size is much larger than when I had my 160 on a Mod. Maybe try a 200?

What rotor have you got? I had a Gusset one and changed it to a Mono Trial and it happens less, but still happens. It didn't happen at all with my 160, just on the 180 I've got now.

I think running it with no grease or anything is stupid, mine is one of the 07 ones I think which were assembled with oil instead of grease, so they're louder anyway. I find that the loud heavy clicks and solid engagement does it for me, on all the Kings I've tried I can't feel when they engage, they feel more "flexy" to me aswell, but the volume doesn't bother me too much as long as it feels good.

They look almost flat though like Onza bars to me? Are they anything like your TIs Jon? EDIT: Flat as in no upsweep, not no rise.

Send them back, lifetime warrenty I think? Not certain though, generally speaking they're so good you'd never need to. Have you got one of the TI rings or the big dinnerplate thingies?