Muel

Hmm, I think I'll try some better extenders first, I need to make some sort of expanding wedge type thingy, that doesn't weigh too much... I've heard of pieces of dowell being hammered into them, then wrapped in tape, I don't fancy it myself. I, have a cunning plan however. My Dad works on a lathe, and works with stainless steel and some super high grade plastic stuff. I'll sketch some stuff out and see if he can do it. Next time I'll think more before posting a topic. :$ Thanks for the speedy replies guys.

I have tried loads of setups, and I have found the best front tyre by far is the Try-All. It's really bouncy, light and resists pinches well. For the rear, I have to say the Monty Eagle claw seems to be slightly better than the Creepy to ride with, I can't comment on the wear rate but apparantly it's about the same. The Monty is a little bouncier and I got less flats, and it definately gripped better on rocks. When you use a Try-All front and a Monty/Maxxis rear, they wear pretty evenly, so when they both get worn out, you don't end up with half worn front tyres knocking about.

Howdo, this is going to sound pretty daft, but it's best to check. I have 2007 Monty TI bars, they are perfect for me, I absolutely love them, but I recently got some new grips, stiffer ones, so I put 10mm of old handlebar in each end and I love them even more. Are there any bars that are the exact same geo as TIs, but 10-15mm extra on either side? I am liking the look of the white Try-All Rage bars. Also, how much could I get for my TIs, realistically?

I have to agree with Simp, we all like a loud clicky freewheel, but a pro2 is loud enough. mind you, I run a dry Tensile so I can't really talk. (It's not that loud really).

Woo, someone agrees with me! In all seriousness, I used to have rock blues on a very shallow, light grind and it sucked, but I only ever rode street, so it was all I needed. When i started concentrating on natty, I couldn't do anything because it kept slipping. Double discs are the best.

You can't take college that seriously Danny, it simply a part of life, if you make it your whole life, you'll go insane. A simple rule to follow that I have found is, no work at the weekends. Work during the week, and ride at the weekends.

www.necopads.co.uk Discs would be the best option long term, but it would probably mean buying a whole new bike. A water bleed makes the lever lighter to pull in and faster to return.

That much? I'm doing it.

Geek.

The most important thing of course, it's more pimp.

You tend to get a bit of this when your brake gets a bit old, pads moving in the caliper, theres nothing you can do really. I'd say this was the cause if you have checked all you say you have. If you hold the rotor with your fingers touching the caliper and rock the bike back and forth with the brake locked, you'll be able to feel any play. EDIT: Lawnmowerman was too fast.

Cheers, but it didn't cost as much as you'd think, £700 so far, as I bought it second hand and changed a few parts on it. My brothers T-Lite has a maggy that I have just pimped for him. Braided Hosing from Supercycles. £16 posted. (Brilliant stuff). Water Bleed. Metal TPA and Booster spacers from Edd Potts. £9. Neco Yellows. £10. RB Booster. £12 second hand. Light/Medium grind. It works brilliantly. If I were you, I'd get a set of Neco Yellows, (best pads I have ever owned), and a medium grind, and a water bleed. Then you can add stuff in, like a booster if it needs one, and a metal TPA if you strip the plastic one. It is the best Maggy I have ever used, but I still hate it. It was a sideline project to prove to myself more than anything, that discs are bestest.

Just get some decent pads for your maggy.

I'd love to, but it's more of an epic journey than a trek.

On street, I find that I don't need amazing brakes, but on natty you often have to do moves and quite steep rocks, and then you need amazing brakes. I dunno really, discs work perfect for me, I have no need to touch them.

Lookin good there mate, looks wierd with backwards tires, but still, I wants a go. Is the back brake all sorted? The mounts true and everything?

Neco yellows on a light/medium grind, it is the best set-up I have ever had, and I've had citrus pads and Rock Blues on heavy grinds before.

Even if he did that, he still can't use a big tyre on the back.

Or just buy JonMacks shell and do it yourself. They aren't super expensive you know.

I just wouldn't mention it, strip the wheel down and get in tough, they will probably ask you to send the hub off to them, in which case you'd need to despoke it anyway. If they bring it up, tell them the truth.

Why do you need a new hub? If you just want a new rim, why not just get the rim? It's an expensive way of doing it, getting a new wheel every time you need a new hub.

Well I rode a Marco Hoesel a few time, and OK it wasn't as stiff as my Echo, but it was a lot lighter. I could feel the difference, but it really didn't matter, if the geo on the Hoesel was right for me then I could ride it all the time.

It is a horrid place to have to go to, but there are still some good lines I want to try! I'm never going to let my bike see that place though, it would get depressed.

Were the koxx you rode a bit, floppy? Because all the ones I have ridden have been very stiff indeed.