cai

Oh I understand you now. I think you should just build it all up as you should still be able to get the wheel straight and true.

Hopefully you can see what I mean by 'radial' in this photo. On the side of the hub with no disc mount the spokes just go directly from the hub to the rim, without overlapping other spokes - this is called 'radial', or '0 cross'. But on the side of the hub that has a disc mount the spokes overlap (or cross) other spokes. This particular pattern is called '3 cross' because if you follow one spoke from the hub to the rim it would have crossed 3 other spokes. Understand now? If not I can try and explain again

Really? He's saying that the spoke holes in the flange on each side of the hub line up with each other, when they are usually offset. The photo below shows how spoke holes should be laid out. So if you put a spoke straight through a spoke hole on one flange, it should end up in the middle of two spoke holes on the other side: Where as he is saying his spoke holes are not offset, so the holes on each flange line up. I can't see it being a problem though if you have the correct length spokes, as the non-disc side of Viz hubs are usually laced radially (0 cross spoke pattern)

Was it hard to fit that star nut in your Urbans? Cos it looks too wide to fit the internal diameter of the Echo steerers..

I am so very impressed with all of this man. Seeing your progression thoughout this thread has been really cool. I've been digging through my DVD selection for the last ten minutes to find my copy of Piranha 3D - it came with some 3D glasses, and I've gotta say those stereoscopic renderings are awsome to look at

Its built into the frame man.

Wow, thats a lot of stem stackers ..but if it feels comfy then who cares right. Smart looking bike man, I love those dropouts! Easily the most hidden chain tensioning system that I've seen.

Ewwwww! ..pink Ribo's are not cool!

In my experience of owning 2 BB7's and 2 BB5's both new and old styles I'd say they are all great brakes, and I would happily run any of them again. I find the newer style BB5's and BB7's flex a tad more than the older versions when the brake is pulled hard - which annoys me slightly as I like a stiff brake. I also find it much easier setting up a BB7 when compared to the BB5 as you can adjust both pads inwards and outwards. Because of this I'd say the older style BB7 is slightly better than the rest.. I don't know why people are saying that the BB7 is more powerful, and others are saying that the BB5 is more powerful though. Because I've never felt a difference in power between any of my Avids. If this is true then why arn't pads made as small as possible? According to what you've said you could have a pad the same size as a 5p coin, or a pad thats a couple of inches long and they'll have an idendical preformance Surely the friction from the bigger surface area plays a part in all of this?

That is much more useful than my little graph

It'd be awsome Matt! Maybe TartyBikes could incorparate this idea into there product pages, just like how they have worked out the height and width of tyres.

That looks nice in silver, very nice actually!

To be fair he probally didn't keep the cones tight if it ate itself that quickly, but this just backs up my theory of the open bearing hubs being hassle

It all looks pretty sweet (apart form the super long front brake cable), good job man!

In trials a sealed bearing hub is 99% of the time a 'fit and forget' component ..where an open bearing hub requires constant checking and tightening to keep it running okay - they're just hassle!

No problem man. If I were you I'd contact TartyBikes when they're open again and ask when the PR will be back in stock (..or if it ever will again?). If all else fails I wouldn't let the colour of the Viz stem put you off, after all with some paint stripper and polish it could easilly be made silver along with it then being a tad lighter or theres always a spray can if your stuck on having a black stem.

I haven't compared these stems side by side or anything, but this always helps me when deciding on stems: ..I find it pretty useful for comparing stem hights/lengths etc.. EDIT: Have you considered the Monty PR stem? Its only £15, pretty light at 209 grams, and measures up at 150 x 25°.. Bad news is its currently on order Otherwise theres the V!Z Welded stem which is £39 and 207 grams and also 150 x 25°..

Yey! I've been riding with an equally faulty hub for around 9 months now

The splines in that photo look spot on! Why arn't both of our's?

Man I'm sure your chain will snap before these splines sheer off..

Meh, it works for me.. Plus you've gotta think that the chain is only pulling/twisting the sprocket in one direction around the hub splines (clockwise if you look at it side on). So as long as the sprocket is in the position that it is in the photo below when the lockrings tightened then its all good.

The splines on my hub and sprocket are exactly the same as yours (I have a steel sprocket though instead of a titanium one). It really is a terrible fit, the sprocket moves back and forth quite alot! But since fitting it around 9 months ago theres been no problems what so ever Granted its a bit of slopy engineering but it dosen't seem to matter once the lockrings nice and tight..

I would love to see this happen! Hope they make a matching crank arm as they may be expecting us to run these on a rear fixed splined hub.. Well he's tryed changing the trials standard bottom brackets, surely this isn't much different? If other manufacturers step in with this idea too it'll be sweeeeet