cai

Okay £25 isn't the cheapest around, but I was originally going to suggest a Hope CNC stem (£60)- so In comparison the Stone Edge CNC didn't seem so expensive. But yeah, if you can get away with a £5 stem then go for it

I think you should run which ever bars you find the comfiest, and team them which a low stem and no headset spacers to equate for the low BB of the frame. Perhaps a Stone Edge CNC stem? (http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/26_inch_stems/stone_edge_cnc/c41p11136.html) they're pretty cheap at £25 and come in 90mm, 100mm and 110mm by 5°.

Well the only way to really get his cranks black again is to respray them, I was just suggesting something that might work.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Back-to-Black-tyre-shine-spray-bottle-trigger-restorer-trim-dash-plastic-rubber-/170855871379?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item27c7cdb393#ht_692wt_1163 Might be worth a try? Works well on my tyres anyway..

25 psi front & back is always a good starting point

Your right, it fits 73mm and 68mm bottom brackets. I've always run a 68mm BB in my Effect and the non drive side cup sits inside the frame quite a bit, so yeah it is offset to the drive side, but it feels no different when your riding

The 2mm spacer measured in at 2mm so no problems there. I couldn't get the 12mm spacer out (without causing damage to it) to measure it, but it doesn't look worn. This leads me to believe its the drive side end cap at fault, again it doesn't look worn, but the 'lip' on the inner face that presses up against the free hub body looks to be very small. Perhaps the whole face of the end cap is touching the free hub body bearing when everything is tightened up fully, not just the lip of the end cap, causing the stiffness? I'm going to try a small spacer in there if I can source one of the correct size and see if that helps, if it does then I'll buy a new end cap. If it doesn't then I'll be left scratching my head at which bearing is at fault

Cheers for the reply Mark. I'll take the hub apart again tonight in hope of narrowing this down. Just to clarify, it'll potentially be a fault with either the 12mm spacer or 1mm spacer: Or it'll be a fault with the drive side end cap: Otherwise It'll be a bearing letting me down, correct?

Cheers for idea but my problem is the complete opposite of that. Your idea suggests that I can't tighten the hub to the frame fully - where my problem is that I can absolutely tighten my hub to my frame, so much so that the free wheeling element on my hub is getting sort of clamped in place also. You could be onto something with a washer though! If for example the 'end cap' on the drive side of the hub has mangled itself in some way it could be pressing on the whole bearing of the free hub and thus making it stiff, placing a correctly sized washer in between the end cap and free hub bearing would solve this. However the inside face of the 'end cap' on my hub doesn't look to have been damaged or distorted in anyway to be touching all of the free hub's bearing, so I can't see this being the answer. Edit: If I can get a hold of a correctly sized washer than I will of course give this a try

Hey, I've got one of the original Pro 2 Trials (from '05, maybe '06 I think?) and recently the free hub/free-wheeling section has gone very stiff when the drive side axle bolt is tightened 100%. When the disc side axle bolt is tightened completely everything is normal, and when the drive side axle bolt is tightened say 95% (so its just about ride-able, but your still a little scarred that the hub may fall out) everything is still normal, once its tightened completely however the freehub section becomes very hard to turn (the hub itself still spins fine, its just the free hub part that's bad). I've taken the hub apart and all the bearings are tip-top, and I oiled them up just to make sure they were not stiff. The correct sized spacer is in place between the free hub bearings and the hub bearing. The inside face of the spacer/end cap on the drive side is perfect. I've checked the hub body inside and out for cracks as this model was well renowned for cracking at the hub shell - but it's all good. It really is confusing me to what is causing this issue, any ideas out there, or comments from anyone who's experienced this problem before would be massively helpful

What a great idea, thank you for writing/making this book! I will 100% be ordering myself a copy of this. I'm sure it'll be a great asset in my 'riding bag' alongside the trusty Allen keys and spoke key

I'd say so. I'd probably prefer the Element over the Skye - much cheaper, dedicated Vee mounts, better geometry IMO, and normal dropouts - but that's just me.. Also if your worried about the life span of your bike then you could buy 2 Elements and it'd still be cheaper than the Skye :L

Good to see some proper brakes on there, Avid Ultimates all the way

Personally I'd take an Avid SD7 set-up any day over a Maggie, but my favourite type of Magura are the '04 models. Aside from the standard TPA's snapping - which is easily avoidable - they really are the most simple and least flawed design

I've had a hard time finding any as well! I have however found these Kris Holm 24" rims (47mm wide, 36 hole) although I'm unsure which, if any, on-line shops sell them.. http://www.krisholm.com/khu/rims# Edit: found a German site that has them in stock - http://www.einradladen.com/shop/product_info.php?language=en&info=p565_felge---507mm--24-zoll--freeride-kris-holm.html&

I'm left foot forward for trials and snowboarding (although I'm pretty good riding fakie on a board too), for everything else in life I'm right foot and right handed - weird!

Yes, tilting your bars back helps manuals and bunny hops. Having a higher front end also helps this

Has done for at least a year, maybe longer. It was so handy!

I don't get any notifications from the topics I've created and posted in (from before the update and after). I cleared my 'cache' a few times too and it hasn't fixed this. I'm using Google Chrome on Windows 7 if that makes any difference?

Had a little ride yesterday and recorded a few clips

Echo Control '09 BB Height (from floor): 37cm Bar Height (from floor to grips): 104cm Bar Height - BB Height: 67cm Edit: I'm 6'2 and this feels very good for trials, however on my 24" I have a difference of 72cm..

"Wheel base 1035mm, BB high 15mm, chainstays 385mm, head tube 100mm, head angle 73°." Head angles hardly slack at 73° , and 385mm chain stays are a pretty common length and not overly long. Fair enough the BB is low by today's standard - but some people, like me, would happily ride a bike with a BB height of +/- 0

Not sure what I make of this: The geometry seems good, but it looks more like a street/dirt-jump bike than a trials bike

that was fun to play. I was impressed by the options you created (20", 24", 26" bikes, different frames, helmet colours).

Bend the tip of the spoke upwards so there's no danger of it getting stuck in your chain. Also make sure you coil the spoke around a bolt or around the axle at least a couple of times, this gives the tensioner a really good spring effect