Rob Leech

Hi All, so, some good news today, the first order of parts was sent out yesterday and are now available through Tartybikes! So far, the cams and boosters are in, but the bash's will be up very soon. Check it out here - http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/search.php?keywords=jaf Thanks for reading, Josh Leech, Jaf Bikes.

http://youtu.be/KENZD6IjDYI

This. Bike looks tidy Leon. Good choice with the green, goes nicely with the setup . Josh.

I haven't considered making them with a vee-mount yet, but I'll look into it (although master rainbird sounds like he's being his gratiously kind and helpful self as always ). They're still in the testing phase atm, so just finding any little niggles and getting them resolved, but it shouldn't be long. They'll be £25 a pair once they're ready (Have been able to reduce the production costs from the first price basis on facebook ) . Cheers all, Josh.

I know that this probably isn't relevant, but kindergarden cop has got to be one of the best arnie films ever made.

Works a treat aslong as you pack it seriously tight, any air pockets or voids allow it to move when pressure is put onto the tube, leading to crushing/stretching . I weld on a section of plate (I always make it around 50mm longer than it need to be to allow this part to be cut off to get rid of any unnessisarly heated material (sorry about the spelling, I'm a welder, can;t help it ) onto the ends, but you could make a plug similar to a head doctor that woul do the trick . Ahh, fair play. I had one in my previous workshop, but that went with the other guy that was there unfortunately . Once the dies are made, they'll come out just fine .

Cheers chap. It's pretty basic atm. Pack the tubing with sand and use an external spring to stop any crushing/stretching of the inside and outside walls, pop it in the tube bender using the digital protactor to measure the angles, job done . I'll be making dies to suit the tubing and radia to speed things up once the test period is over with them . I have already made dies for the stays with the frames and it makes things so much quicker Really? (sorry for such a large picture btw ) Appreciate that . Cheers all, Josh. You'll have mail in a few minutes squire, things are progressing .

Yeah, I thought the same, but the guy is used to running sus-forks, so wanted to keep the height. Also keep the effective head angle the same with the integrated headtube . Cheers chap, Josh. Ha ha, I know. My camera skills are certainly lacking atm (the joys of long workshop days ). I can assure you they're symectrical .

How do, putting this up on behalf of a customer, so let us know what you think . Geo - frame - 1025 wb, 364 c/s, +25 bb, 73 deg h/a fork - 425 crown to axle, 30mm offset Any questions, let us know. Will have some fully built pics pretty soon . Cheers all, Josh.

I'm not going to argue with you today, didn't need it back then, don't need it now - my veiw on the matter.

What? Ever heard of leeson, pashley or curtis? Because Trials has never seen a steel frame that's easily ridable before now.

I'm sorry to do this to your thread Dave, but with the amount of rubbish I get put on mine, it's about time they had some back. Some Bmx companies do go down the route of heat treatment, yes, but not all as Ali has shown. All aluminium frames have to be treated due to there post-fabrication properties and that's a fact (trust me, I've tested it out before). I don't disagree that it has it's advantages, but I feel that it's only an advantage if used for the correct aplication. Yes, drag/funny cars may need them, but have you ever seen a trials rider doing 300+mph with a jet engine on their back? Little bit more force going through their frame work. I have no quarrel with you supplying it as an option, but when you're pushing it as neccessary to people that are close to me socially and then taking over 4 months to produce something that should take a matter of days because of it seems wrong to me. Very well done on all those frames, but isn't it about time you posted some out? Ok, it sounds more than acceptable with the forks if you're having to anneal them before fabricating begins, but keep it with the forks. He's been making cro-mo frames for a few years now and has had very little problems with them un-treated. Fair enough, I've never had this problem with such a small interior volume (in fact, I've never had this problem whilst I've been fabricating). This. Also, I think that the quality looks rather poor. The disc tab that has been rather shodily made by hand, the brake mounts that look like they've been chewed out by a beaver and just the welding in general looks pretty highly un-uniformed and rushed. Pretty shocking in my eyes, but probably worth the small amount you pay for it. Sorry again Dave, Josh.

With this frame, it's not a matter of needing the gussets, but the customer wanting them. With my frames, if I can supply it, the customer gets it first time round. One of the joys of being a fully customized design and build . Marks pretty much covered this one, but i feel that the fact you're being a tool has to be added. Of course other frames don't have them, most frames don't utalize a single piece seat stay, but this one does. Adding gusseting to reduce flex is a good design choice at the end of the day. Also, if you're adamant that this style of seat stay dosen't require gusseting, what's going on here? - http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/181068-marino-parousia-build-thread/page-2# Josh. EDIT - Sorry, I think I might of misunderstood which gussets you guys were talking about. Still, no, the frame didn't really need them, but I wanted them at the time, as did Dez, so again, if it's what the customer wants, it's what they get .

At the end of the day Dave, there's obviously a reason that he's heat treating them, but from all my reaserch into the matter (wayyy too much time btw ) it really shouldn't be needed. If you can get a specific reason as to why he's doing it then go ahead with it, but I think you'll end up with more problems than if it wasn't treated.

With the heat treatment, the actual structural gains would depend entierly on two things- Tempering temperature - this would dictate the resulting hardness of the material. Filler wire used - I'm going to take a guess from the pictures that he's still using a mild steel filler (usually an ES standard) rather than cro-mo, which sort of negates the need for heat treatment as it is normally only used with larger stressed parts that have been welded fully with cro-mo as the welds become brittle due to the heat transfer. I'm surprised that no one has questioned this sudden need for heat treatment. He's been making cro-mo frames for a very long time now (and very nicely I have to say btw) and has never had a need for it in the past, so what's changed? I remeber seeing that he has possibly made a change from 4130 to 4140, but if this is true, why? There is very little difference between the two in terms of chemistry and mechanical properties, especially in the normalized state. Any'hoo, frame's looking tasty Dave, get some full build pics up when it gets to you . EDIT - another thing (mainly for peter), why is he putting purge holes in the frame when he's not purging? Ali, I can also assure you that the full weight was being taken by the rear triangle. Myself and Cuff had to stand in a pretty specific spot to stop the frame moving under our weights .

The kerb one is in Reading, the front of the posh white walls (I think there's a few names for the place, but I can't remember them ) .

Ayyyy????? I can assure you, there's only one basher on the Jaf team . Brutal and unfortunately a very much loved wheel killer . Cheers for the comments peeps, very much appreciated. Josh.

4th lot down

I have been thinking about this, but without modification to the forks, I think it would be near on impossible to acheive. Quite a good amount of force goes through a magura mount, especially when on the front wheel unfortunately.

Lots of scrapping, then head to Halfords and find their enamel application spray. I think it's some sort of de-greaseing agent, but I was having the same trouble not long ago, sprayed that stuff on and all the paint and nitromorse just fell off. Pretty awesome stuff whatever it is .

If you were to drill it and couldn't get hold of an M5 tap, you can get away with drilling a 4.5mm hole and not tapping it, simply screw the bolt in . It'll take a little elbow grease to do it, but it works a treat.

Me and Flipp are just about to leave, we'll be at castle park around half 11 .

Yeah, I tired taking pics in other positions, but they all looked like this . I can assure you they're square . Cheers ash, I'm trying to concerntrate on problem solving products atm, mainly parts that increase a riders choice in components. I hate it when a company makes a part that can only be used with their components. It's a good business plan, but no good for the average joe. Dan, the FleiTech is having a few changes made, so it will be a while before it is available to purchase. But it'll be up on the site when it is . Cheers, Josh,.

Another part completed today - 26"-24" Magura mount converter - If you're using a 24" wheel on the front with a magura, your fork choice can be quite limited. With these converters, you can now run the forks you've always wanted on your 24" and still be able to use a front magura! Showing the main plate of the converter with counterbored mounting holes for the new position of mounting and countersunk slots to allow additional movement with the original mounts. Spacers included to allow clearance between your clamps and the conversion plate. With the addition of the counterbore, there will be no more fiddly alignment of your mounting bolts. 4 M5 bolts included, 2 cap heads to mount your clamps and 2 countersunk to mount the plate to the original mounts.

Hi all, we've had a couple of new parts come through this week at Jaf, so thought I'd pop them up on here for the people not on facebook- Jaf Cap - The new Jaf Cap, constructed from stainless steel with a funky but functional design to add a bit of bling to your bike. Designed to suit any standard flat-top stem and supplied with a custom machined M6 bolt to sit nicely in the cap. Threaded Starnut - Ever had to squint whilst you smack a starnut into the lovely threads in your threaded steerer? Well not anymore. Our threaded starnut allows the use of a standard top cap and M6 bolt with forks using a M18 threaded steerer (Trialtech, Inspired, Atomz, ect), so no more ruined threads due to the use of a sloping stem! Also encorporating an M5 allen key slot to ease the installation of the nut and to allow the user to screw the nut tight into the fork. We have a few more problem solving products coming to light very soon, and will also be taking pre-orders for all of our components in the near future. Thanks for reading, Josh Leech, Jaf Bikes.