SebJT

Sounds good, will these refills be of the new konig material or the same white or something else. Look forward to hearing from you soon. Seb

Well all i can say is every time ive done natural ive had no problems with my brake. Especially yesterday (YMSA comp), didnt let me down once. Yet talking to people throughout the day there were a few with problems with theyre maguras. Id say my vee is as good as a magura and yes i have used a magura for 2 years and tried many set ups. But been so happy with my vee just over the sheer reliablitly of it. Very rearly have to play around with it and have been running the same XTR cables for over a year now. Gave my whole brake a good service a few weeks back and its now smoother than ever. My set up: Ultimates XTR lever XTR hosing Echo/ademant booster Janson's Vee adapters Heatsink backings with my own made pads from rimjam red material. Pads are the only problem right now, cant seem to get hold of decent pads, plasmatics all out of stock right now. And steve doesnt seem to be making any more vee pad material :P Gonna go to the plastic shop sometime and see if i can get some decent compound. Seb

I use "Velo" foam grips from halfords, they very nice. My first pair lasted me around 10months, and theyre still going but at £5 for the pair i thought id change mine cos they were becoming a bit hard. Theyre on my xc bike now though. In the packet they look bad, because they have this strange neoprene style sleeve on them, but take that off and theyre fine :lol: Might be a bit thick, if so try some of the roadie bar foam. My mate got some of that from halfords you get like 2 foot long bits, are very soft and a lot thinner, also like £5 might be worht a try. Seb

Even though so much has happened to me this year, my like has changed so much with going to uni, moving away from home etc. Yet it seems like yesterday finding about this horrible tragedy. I remember going onto T-F and seeing it closed with a picture of you and saying what had happened. I honestly at first didnt believe it, thought that it was some sick joke or a mistake. Only coming to terms with it some hours later. Still think of you a lot, always seeing people's RIP DJ messages in their signatures. Also every time a bail and somehow manage to not get hurt, i think that you are watching down on us all making sure we're all ok. Regretably cant be on the ride today, wo wish i could be. Instead i had to do the hardest exam ive ever done :P i think ive done enough to pass though. Gonna be off for a ride in a minute, will have to pay tribue with a minutes silence. RIP DJ you are sorely missed by all of us (Y) Seb

If your not bothered about the other sprokets, take a hammer and a chisel, just hit the chisel into the rivits a few times and they'll break and the whole cassette falls to sprokets and a spacers Seb

Because its made by shogun maybe :S" I personally think it looks like quite a good starter. Yes its made from 7005, but i should think the other stuff on the bike will break before the frame. Especially as younger beginners will be riding it. I rode a 7005 frame for a year before it cracked. Spec seems alright too. Seb

Some bikes do look good with normal seats, maybe its the picture. Try getting some better ones sometime :S

My way of bleeding brakes with water seems to be flawless, similar to that of biff's. 1. Fill bath with warm water (well about 15*C would be best, as this is about average temperature outside, so will have the least expansion effects, but having the water 10 dergees more will be unnoticably different. Just stops your hands from freezing.) 2. Submegre brake underwater, completly. 3. Remove bleed bolt from lever and caliper. 4. unwind TPA fully and loosing reach adjustment grub screw. 5. Take a bleed tube and a syringe and attach to lever and tighten with 8mm spanner (so many people dont do this and wont give such a good bleed.) 6. Repeatedly fill and empty the syringe, this draws water back and forth through the brake removing air and swarf. 7. I usually add a little DW40 to the syringe and repeat step 6, this really gets rid of the crap inside. 8. Remove syringe from bleed tube and completly fill with water. Reattatch to bleed tube and push water through brake. Repeat this a few times. 9. Remove bleed tube and replace all bolts. 10. Remove brake from water and give a dry and wipe down. 11. You now have an awesome brake. So good it made me consider going back to maggys. But that hasnt happened yet, still prefer my Vee :S Seb

I agree, doesnt look so good with the big seat. My mate has an echo bounce and rides places with some big seatpost and proper seat, then when he wants to ride pops and mini seat on and the other in his bag cunning i must say :S Seb

I run an XTR 9spd chain, lasts me >9months a go, so couldnt say youd need more than that... And if you are just as fit with a gear twice as high you'll go twice as fast... (Y) I would consider myself a "fit" rider and i could get to my trials spots in my trials gear pretty much flat out, or a few clicks into my higher gear and i put in the same effort but i get there in half the time, for more time riding... As for the car comment, id love a car, but keeping two bikes running and keeping myself alive at uni there's no chance i could afford it :) Seb

The config thing does wonders, browsing is a lot faster :( cheers Just downloaded littlefox skin, but gives me a "jar" error and wont install :) any help someone... Seb

I have always run gears and dont seem the problem with them. Spots are quite far away and with my highest gear i can go almost twice as fast than with my trials gear. As for chain tension and chain slippage, i have NEVER in my 2.5years of riding trials had my chain slip off. Also people say about getting rid of stupid thin chains, i run XTR chains and last me 9-10months before breaking so i dont see thats a problem either. My gears set up is probably lighter than a SS set up anyway, by the time you take into account the steel sprokets and bmx chains. not that it really matters anyway. Also i very rarly hit my mech. Only once have i needed to change my mech hanger. Meh gears for me... Seb :(

Might be worth a try, but i dont think itll be worth having, will add a lot of weight and wont look very good. I think the motoX ones are just plastic to shield off water, mud and stones. I also think that it would be difficult to make the fixing strong enough to hold it in place in an impact even if it is, it would probably cause damage to the mount/forks. I do think it is actually really hard to hit a disc rotor anyway i never have done. Seb

Best so far :P far better than mine (Y) Seb :D :P I feel a bit :S now

Up on reading it again i think you are right!! In which case probably freeride. But then i supose there bikes are bigger/heavier i donno... Seb

He's my attempt, could have probably made it better, but made it with the original deadline in mind. Cant be arsed to go film it all again though... "curb" Seb

He is trying to say what part of trials is most harsh on your bike, for example like he said, big drops. I would say they would be the harshed thing. Next would be front taps i think. Everything else is fine if you do it smoothly. Another problem could be bails though, like a nice gap to down tube is going to be more damaging than a 8ft drop... Hope that clarifies things (Y) Seb Ps, juicy fruit, try using the spell checker before you post >_<

Studying Chemical engingeering at birmingham uni

Yes please (Y) cant make the portsmouth one, got a stupid exam >_< june the 3rd being the friday...? Seb

Yes i have an XC already, but its my xc wheel which i would like back, as my xc bike is lacking a front wheel right now. In the end i went for a Hope XC, decided i could use the extra £50 else where! Also the fact that ive never broken a front hub even really cheap ones and ive been very happy with my hope mono lightweight on my trials bike and my hope XC on my XC bike. Also considering getting the hope Trials hub when it comes out rather than getting a king. With the whole fact of great service from hope and readily available spares if i need them. Also im quite happy with my mono at the moment never when riding not been able to do something and though "if i had a chris king right now i could do this..." Thanks for your comments, wheel being built as i speak should have it at the weekend :) cant wait! Seb

I much prefer silent brakes, mine is and everyone thinks i'm uber smooth, although it is probably to do with my brake being silent. I think you'll find that your brakes will squeak because its a better brake, resulting in the pads griping the rim and vibrating, causing the squeak. If you set up your brakes perfectly square and you use a fairly hard compound pad, this will reduce vibrations, hence reducing squeak yet still being a good brake. As i am running a v brake on the rear, there is no (very little) movement so this is why it wont squeak. With a magura it has clip in pads which dont sit 100% because itll be impossible to make it like that, you will notice a bit of play in the pad, this causes the vibrations and squeak. I found that running a stiff booster with my old magura seems to reduce the squeak by reduceing vibrations. Seb

Was all set planning to come, but :- I have a 3hr fluid flow, thermodynamics and heat transfer exam :- so annoyed would say i could come after my exam but would take another 4hrs to get there so its out of the question. So very disapointed. Is the one in abbingdon, i will go on that to pay tribute definatly as its closer if its the same day. Or another day then ill be definatly there. Seb (Y)

Got my echo rim waiting to be built up only thing i cant decide what hub to get. Has to be anadised blue and disc. Im running a hope xc at the moment, my xc bike wheel, which is fine. But do i say what the hell and go for a king will match my rear one when i get it come summer. Meh help!! Seb

Ah yes, should have thought!!! Have some in the garage ill try that tomorrow Cheers Steve Seb :o

My mate gave me his bike to service also to polish his calipers, as he wanted them silver not red. Did all that cleaned out all the oil from the system, bled it really nicely in the bath, no air. Put it back on the bike, pull the lever and water leaks out of every thread :) Took it off took it all apart, cleaned the threads and checked them and all seems fine but it still leaks :o Any ideas, or will an oil bleed work as oil is more viscous? Thanks Seb