sstein

pretty sure they came in a few colours. In fact I seem to remember some pics of hans riding a red one in mbuk a few years back

best riding i have seen from you yet. Ride in the next few weeks?

the trials has 48ep the old pro 2 has 36ep and the pro 2 evo has 24ep

Generally speaking this would be a twisted frame. Put your bike upside down, take out the front wheel and take a photo through the forks so we can see. also try and upload the photos in a higher res.

I agree with ian. I class myself as a trials rider as well as an mtb street rider. It does not matter what bike I am riding at the time or where I am riding.

I would say what you want is 1040, 380, +20, 71.5. Go for the 4130 as it is a lot stronger. Horizontal dropouts should not cause an issue with brake alignment if done correctly.

fair enough. I would not know about ffw setups but i have always found bmx cranks to have more tightspot problems than 4 bolts or burns. as for the clearance it just depends on the actual cranks i guess. I know my fireeye ones would not have the clearance but other ones i have used would work.

you talking about the clearance or the tight spots?

bmx cranks use their own bb axle and it is a standard width designed for use on a bmx. it may fit but may not. as for the tight spots what that is is where the chainring is not perfectly centred and as you peddle the chain goes loose and then tight.

For one the bb axle is too narrow so you are only just going to get clearence (if they do not catch that is). it is hard to find a small enough bash for bmx cranks. you get major tight spots.

It is doable but it will be crap for trials. If you want something that will last get a set of isis middleburns and a decent isis bb

well they are braze on mounts but they should still not be added to an alu frame

JD is pretty on it but that often means very little to someone who does not already know that stuff. Geo should be Dependant on your riding style, for instance say you are average height and build and want a stock bike, if you want to ride streety stuff you should look for a short wheelbase and chainstay with medium height bb and steep head angle for example 1035mm wb, 380mm cs, +15mm bb, 72 ha. This will be very easy to bunnyhop and spin but not so easy for static moves. if you want to ride tgs then a long wb, high bb and still a pretty steep headangle would be good (1090, 385, +60, 71). this will be very easy to balance on the back wheel so is good for gaps and sidehops and the steepish head angle will make taps and front wheel moves easier. if natural is your choice then a bike similar to that of a tgs bike but with a low bb and slacker head angle will be best (1090, 385, +15, 70) . this allows better stability on two wheels. obviously this is subject to preference and some people who are used to one style will be more comfortable using it for all styles than the bikes designed for what they are doing. but this is a good set of guide rules

ared you planning to have the frame heat treated afterwards because otherwise it will just snap?

either start stationary or at a slow roll, as you approach the take of point put in one full crank rotation to up your momentum and an extra half for the takeoff kick all in a fluid motion, as the back comes up tuck your legs up and then push them forwards to meet the landing. watch 2.52

well a j-hop. the reason for using those is you can easily clear a greater distance if you have the run up.

as in, rolling but still using a peddle kick or rolling without the kick?

Surely the principle of competition will force the prices lower than higher

NO!

what size chainring you using? what bb is it? the howitzer bb does come in up to a 56mm chainline which should be enough, however the standard 50/51mm chainline bbs will not be

That was the point of my comment. Also magura blood is just a make of mineral oil, there is nothing special about it.

So you recommend dot 5.1 in maguras? the difference between water and oil (that is important here) is the viscosity. Water has a lower viscosity so will move through the brake quicker and easier, giving a more responsive brake and lighter feel. With the pressure in brake internals you are not going to notice any difference on the compressibility of the fluid only the responsiveness. Personally I dont like pure water bleeds and prefer to use phat phluid (gives the same feel with less issues), but water does make a huge difference over oil to the performance of the brake. It is naive and childishly narrow minded to discount the benefits of something that many people use with out issue and you have never even tried. As for manufacturer recommendations, the manual for maguras states that you can use cooking oil in the brake if you need to (which i did for about 1.5 years with out issue) but not too many people do that. Maguras are also designed for xc use and have just been accepted by trials riders, the fluid designed for them does not give an ideal feel for trials usage where ultimate performance and a highly responsive feel is almost essential.

What sort of riding do you do/want to do? How tall are you/what is your build? what bikes have you ridden before? If you are going to get a frame built then you might as well do something custom and designed to suit you rather than just copying something. As for materials it does depend a bit on the riding style and the facilities you have available. If you have someone that can do decent aluminum frames then possibly 6061 alloy (occasionally referred to as aircraft grade) should be pretty easy for your friends to get hold of and is what is used in the majority of trials frames. Personally I am more a fan of 4130 (chromium-molybdenum steel) or some form or reynolds steel as they give a more comfortable ride, are easier to work with and generally speaking will last longer.

I have used both. the red ones are much better

+1, most powerful brake i have used and it is on a smooth rim, it even beats my phatpads on a grind