sstein

will come out after work if you are all still out

you are also a true legend mr c

you dont have to use your brakes but it sure helps

would that not just fit on the hanger but bolt onto the inside of it rather than the outside to mean that it sticks out less? i reckon in practice it would make little difference as most people break tensioners/hangers side hopping and slipping straight onto it, rather than actually catching it, though obviously it would be a little harder to land on.

If you over tighten your chain it will cause the backwheeling issue you are talking about but should not affect you when riding. As for the skipping try-alls do that... A LOT!!! it will not cause you an issue as there are so many engagements, it will just be annoying. With the moving side to side, hold the end of the cranks and flex it back and forth towards the chainstays, if you see the bb moving it is not in the frame properly or the bearings are gone, if not it is the crank, crank/bb interface or freewheel. Once again videos would help Also the tensioning problem is probably due to the fact you are using notched tensioners, try smooth one or cams and it should make things easier. alternatively if you can, get a longer cam bolt and screw it in from the other side of the frame so it is not the head the cam pushes against but the other end. this should affect the cs length by about 1mm which might be all that you need.

It is really hard to get anything helpful out of your description. what setup are you using (frame, cranks, bb length, bash, gearing ratio, freewheel, tensioners etc...)? what do you mean by "it skips [but it could be the bb]" either it is skipping or there is a creaking noise, which one is it? skipping you will often feel, creaking you will only hear. what do you mean by "the freewheel moves left to right"? the whole freewheel or it just appears to because the threads on the crank are not perfectly straight so it creates an offset/tight spot? photos/video? what do you mean it makes the wheel go backwards when it shouldn't? how long have you had it?

I am building a new wheel for my street trials bike and i want something a bit thinner than the standard 46mm trials rims. I was thinking of getting a dmr dv, ns fundamental or octane one rim. The thing i want to know is will they handle being ground or will it substantially weaken them? Also will a grind on them wear out really quickly?

Generally speaking, no. however the spokes sent might actually be the right length but the paper work is wrong. dont forget the invoice is used just for pricing and may have been filled out wrongly. call them and ask

Are you serious? I rode a modstock, would get another one if i could

the brakless 180 nose pivot is actually a lot easier than you think, get your weight right over the bars and spin like you would if you had the brake on.

Just keep practicing. go over the bars a couple of times, learn the balance point. it sounds like you are just not committing enough to it.

They are great for street trials, they manual and spin really well and bunnyhop beautifully. the problem lies with the disc only mount and the fact that it is way too short for normal trials stuff, also the chainstays are long and the bb is low. If you do ride streety stuff then by all means get one, also as it is steel you can get maggie or v mounts brazed on really easily. Just did it on my own one and has made me love the frame even more.

isis have stronger axles and are less likely to round off square taper have bigger, longer lasting bearings and can generally be bodged if they do round off

did you use the right size drill bit and tap? are the threads ok? did you remove the tang?

Keeping the front up on gaps or sidehops?

Yeah, first if you are running a qr axle tightening it up with no hanger there means you are tightening against the axle not the frame (in essence doing nothing). Second, even if you are running bolted and this is not the problem, you are likely to flare the dropouts.

I don't know about that...

I read this. I got quite annoyed by the fact that they called him a 'bmx daredevil' and said he rides a 'trail' bike. But oh well, even if they get the names wrong it is still exposure for the sport I guess.

I have been running a 2007 juicy 3 for about 6 months now on my trials bike and about 2 years before that on my jump bike and have had no issues.

No!!!! The only things that wd40 should be used for on a bike are removing seized bolts and polishing your frame. WD40 is an oil based water disperser. GT85 is a teflon based thin lubricant. WD40 will clean the crap out and let it run smoothly again but will dry up very quickly and the same thing will happen again (or worse the inside of the freewheel will be vulnerable to rust as whatever was in there will be removed by the WD40. GT85 will leave a thing lubricating coating that will stop rust and allow the parts to move more smoothly

would this guy be capable of doing a frame

Would anyone be up for doing a custom booster for me as my maggie mounts are braze on and I wont be able to fit a standard 4 bolt?

If you are finding it hard to keep your weight back on a bmx then you are doing something wrong. You should be have more of a problem of looping out or just keeping balance. I find people that struggle to get the front of the bike up or keep their weight back are people that try and lift the front rather than pushing the back

Depends on the pedal but most of them still run bearings, or at least they run bearings on the outside and bushings on the inside.

Yes they do