Brisa

You wont really go wrong with silicone grease, works well with a lot of seals including 3000 psi plus airgun seals. Brake fluid is as handy though.

Numerous Skoda Estelles (pokeless) Skoda Rapide 136 (rally prepped on the road) dad's old car. Nothing will ever come close! Skoda Felecia 1.3 (played with a bit for autotest) Skoda Felecia 1.6 mpi (proper sleeper, dads car I drove first 6 months driving) MK1 Escort RS rally prepped at an autotest Metro with the 1.8 vvc conversion hill climb spec (mad as a hat!) Couple of caterham style kits including a neighbours bandit powered tiger kit. My little 998 mini (miss it!) My 106 1.1 s2 (boke/current car) Endofreaks mum's Corsa C? The new one with the little turbo diesel motor. (put into drive way... smooth!) BMW E30 325 ayeeeee! S1 106 rallye and S2 106 rallye. S2 106 gti/Saxo VTS/VTR Skoda Octavia VRS (beast!!!) Nova 1.4 SR 2003 Clio 1.2 (Instructors car got wrote off) Saxo 1.5d (instructors new car) Good few more that I cant recall. On the wish list: Corolla GT Coupe 1.6 16v AE86 (known as a 'twin cam' in NI)

I suppose in that sense Kwik Fits are like Halfords. Quite a lot suck but there might be some good ones. Returing six times in the same week with a brand new exhaust on my dads old car isn't what you would call great service.

If its the same layout as my 1.1 then the place where the manifold joins the cat section has two bolts and a metal compression fit gasket. Once them bolts are off its only a case of prising off 3 rubber band hangers that hold the rest of the system onto the car. One in the middle and two on the back box. This is roughly what mine looks like, cant see it being massively different from the diesel layout.

Kwik fit are bastards lol Thing is though... there is f**k all to your exhaust. I mean quite easily get one off and put another back on in half an hour with basic tools and no ramp. Might be better going to somewhere like Euro car parts or the like and buying a new exhaust from manifold back which wouldn't be that dear and fit it yourself. Have a look underneath and get the jist of how basic it really is. Failing that it was cheaper for me to buy a full stainless with de cat than a standard pug exhaust with cat... win win lol

Anyone who knows me will know that since forever I have wanted one of these. A Toyota Corolla Gt Couple... in typical Northern Irish guise. 13" superlites and a Janspeed exhaust (supplied at customs lol). The noise is unique! Pity they are now hitting around £7k over here! Hoop the coupe

Haha, Si thats amazing. Have you ever seen a film Dead Mans Shoes? If not go TONIGHT and rent it out... then use your gas mask LINKY Heres a clip.

Move his computer in to the room and see if it still doesn't connect.

You really are such a gaylord! Looking good Steve... just need Mr Zenith and Mr Echo out on the streets of Belfast now!

Cheers but last resort. Asking here as we have some pretty smart people hovering about.

lol... been doing that for hours. Found some software which seems not to work too. Cheers anyway

Parents seem to have set a password on their laptop just in Microsofts User style thing. Thing is they now don't remember what it is. Im sure this has happened to people before so any ideas on how to by pass it? Thanks

Too true but his aftershave is good stuff

Beckham is the ticket!

Electric shock sensors are what you need then... or itty bitty flame throwers! Mental stuff!

Deores have plenty of tension if set up right, maybe post a pic of your set up?

Good to see someone showing an interest... For swirl removal you are really removing a few microns off the clear coat of the paint or in your case (mk1 golf?) on single stage paint a few layers from the paint. When I am removing swirls I am using a porotr cable 7424 but not everyone wants to give that initial outlay for private use. PC 7424 A product such as meguiars scratch x isnt as harsh as the likes of T-cut but worked until the polish has broken down will remove the majority of swirls by hand. People put polish on with a little rub and leave it to haze then buff off. This is fine to help leave a nice gloss but for it to do its proper job it needs worked until it has almost disappeared. It will be hard work by hand but you will get results. There are olishes with a range of oils/glazes in them to help mask swirls to a certain degree, Autoglym super resin polish is one of these, its a do it all kind of thing. Its abrasive so it will help remove swirls if worked for long enough (one of the most underated hand swirls removers) but will also fill in any left with resins that will harden and mask the swirls. This then needs sealed with something like meguiars nxt for a couple of coats, just rubbed on, left to cure and buffed off. That should be your swirls minimised, to keep them away top up with the super resin polish every month or so and keep it nicely waxed. Try not to use a sponge if you can and using one bucket to keep your soapy water in and one clean one to rinse your sponge only helps keep swirls away (known as the two bucket method). Scratch X NXT Wax Autoglym SRP Also check Tesco's for cheap Autoglym.

Both lovely motors and kept very well by the looks of things. Polish shouldbe thrown on first and then a selaent (synthetic wax basically) like NXT wax and then a natural wax such as Poorboys Nattys Blue with carnuba to give the shine.

Cheap car wash is dead on, preferably one with no wax in it. Just more stuff for the polish to take off. If you have the T-Cut then use it, it is a fairly abrasive polish and to get the best from it by hand it wioll need worked well into the paint, a lot of elbow grease... work one panel/section at a time. Cut the bonnet/boot/roof into imagineary sections. If you just apply the polish and rub off it wont do anything you really need to work it in. If you can, get down to tesco's and buy 1 or 2 microfibre towels (£1 each or something) these will be the best thing you could use for removing the hazey polish and makes it a real easy job. After polishing your car will be lovely and shiney but it wont stay like that for long unless you seal it with some sort of synthetic selaent or a wax. A good affordable wax would be something like Meguiars NXT or the Turtle Wax Nanotech again just apply and leave to cure for a few minutes, usually if you just apply to the whole car by the time you finish the first stuff should be ready to buff off with a microfibre towel. Thats the oaint now protected, the more layers of sealent/wax you use the better.

I have befores of the clio but the camera didn't pick up too well on the white car, think of it as a matt finish car. Its an interest, just like trials. Why have swirls in your paint when you can smooth swirl free paint? Wy have a dirty motor when it can be clean. Theres a few forums of people who would think trials is silly. Point is when it comes time to sell you will get a better price compared to a car of the same age/miles but with grotty paint etc, It hints towards a neglected car. I know I would be knocking a few quid off the price of a car if it wasn't well presented and had shitty swirly paint. I did on the 106. The point of this is for people to ask questions, not tell me what I have done is pointless. Farecla make some good stuff Danny, more aimed at trade but sometimes looked upon if you can't shift stubburn defects in hard paint (VAG motors usually)

Best thing I have used is Chemical Guys Stain Extractor, just mix up a drop spray on, leave for a minute and use a vacum that can lift water to extract the remains, the rinse over with a cold water cloth and again extract. Most foams from local halfords should work on if applied in the same way, or put on, scrubbed a bit and left to dry naturally. Chemical Guys stuff is available on ebay quite handily.

Well a while ago I got seriously interested in cleaning my car and got into car detailling in quite a big way. Things such as paint correction, swirl removal and generally attention to detail. This thread is for you to post your pics and ask questions to do with car detailing and general paint maintainance. Here is a few to start you off: Started with Megs #83 with yellow SFX pad and a good few passes to get rid of the swirls and then down to #80 and white sfx pad that gave a better wax ready finish. I got lazy and used the PC to apply some Nattys Blue with blue sfx pad. All buffed off with Tesco's MF's and I was shocked at how good the finish was. Trim with tmeguiars gold class trim detailler and some silicone spray for the tyres. Thats my 106 above.. no comments on it being as high as a monster truck and needing lower profile tyres please lol Toda me and Stevie B (Endofreak) went to work on his clio, the paint was in shitty shitty condition and looked like it had never seen a sealant/wax in its life. After 5 hours with the PC (portor cable 7424 polisher) it was as right as rain and being very reflective for a white motor. Megs #80 with SFX 1 pad all over, followed by Sonus Pre Wax Gloss applied by hand and then Megs NXT spray wax applied by hand. Megs gold class trim and Megs hot wheels tyre shine.

Good stuff

Mojo are smelly cocks to work with. Manager has a 4 month old brain fade shock and a pair of forks that have problems and they don't want to know, plus they want proof of purchase... considering he can write himself one they are just being a bit arsey.