scary_jeff

Smooth rim, non-anodised and giving really good bite and hold so far. That's with the CNC backings, not sure what if any difference they make?

I guess we'll be closing any thread where a brake pad manufacturer tells us they are getting more stock soon? I know some people pay for advertising, but they get a banner on every single page - much more than a single thread in a forum I've never even been in. To me, it's a sign of a well run, intelligent forum, when you have people from the industry coming to that forum to give news, help, and advise. I'm not sure what is achieved by driving them away.

OK, it sounds like your weight is in the wrong place. Let the front end drop, but don't hold your weight back over or behind the rear axle. Your weight should move forward slightly as the front end drops, so that when you jump, you are giving your body forward momentum.

If you are pedalling yourself off the back of the bike, you need to lean forward more. Get on the back wheel, then when you're comfortable that you aren't going to fall sideways, let the front end drop slightly. Once it gets too low to pull back, that's when you make the pedal hop.

If you have the ability and desire to make some kind of frankenbike, I say go for it. You never know what could come out of it without trying, and if everyone is right and it doesn't work, who cares? If anyone has an idea for any kind of project that isn't going to a big deal financially if it screws up, I would say go for it every time. You could always learn something or spot a really good idea along the way, even if the original idea goes wrong.

Yes.

Even on a smooth rim they are fantastic.

Agree. I wouldn't get too hung up on the frame flexing; I don't think I've ever seen a magura that could not flex the frame/fork/booster setup it was in.

I'm just learning this now. The main point that helped me was to start with a small forward hop allowing me to carry some momentum into the main hop. You can also lean back further if you're already moving forward; leaning back further, there's more space to bend your legs and jump up as you pedal for the main hop. I started off using this technique to just hop onto lines of paint in a carpark, then up a curb (it was very obvious when I had got the right technique for this, I went from landing on both wheels together to landing just on the back wheel), then progressively larger rocks/ledges in the normal trials way. For larger obstacles, I was told to slow the whole thing down a bit, spending more time preloading on the back wheel after the first hop, which did help a lot. All this came out of riding with other people who already knew how to do it, so I think this would be the best thing to do if you can. Hope this helps.

This thread makes me sad.

I got my snowies today, and I have to agree with this. Really really impressed, and presumably they bed in and get even better?? Superb. Definitely not going to bother with all this grinding/tar nonsense now!

I'm sure Tarty will tell you which spokes go where.

I was told that yellow/white/red are all the same compound. Not that impressed with coust greens on smooth, got some HS whites on order, and am hoping to see an improvement. It won't really be a fair test since I'm switching to CNC backings and a water bleed at the same time...

£85 seems pretty steep, seems like a better idea to let people pay £15 each for the clubs they actually want to use. Oh well. We used to find it amusing at uni that our bikesoc had about 50 paid members, but of the 8 people who ever did any riding, only about 2 were members As you have the offer to go for free, I would do that. You can always pay once you've decided if it's worth it. If all you do is meet up with friends to go riding, there's really nothing to pay for. Universities are classic for getting people to pay for all kinds of unnecessary stuff, the complaining that students don't have enough money...

www.irfanview.com is a great little tool for simple things like resizing images, adjusting brightness etc. You can resize a whole batch of pictures at once, crop, sharpen, etc and it's fast and free.

Looks like great work, pretty rare to come out of a uni project with a real working product. Hope the show goes well.

I'm amazed it's so close. I always thought it was like being left/right handed, where only 10% are leftys.

Since the photos are 4x bigger than they need to be, you could try taking them from 4x further away, then cropping.

Studying Engineering you will be one of the few people who actually has to work in the first year. We had at least double the lectures of anyone else, and people who didn't do any work paid for it in the second year (saying "the first year doesn't count" is kind of irrelevant when the second year assumes you know everything from the first year). Having said that, there's definitely time for riding. I went to Exeter and we had a great 'bikesoc' with people riding several times a week. You can probably find out in advance if there are many trials riders about by seeing if there is a bikesoc and sending them an email. The best thing to do with your bike is insure it for the new-cost. There are threads on here about that already, but in my case the bike was covered by my parents house insurance anywhere in Europe. If it's not on there already, it costs around £50-60 a year to add a bike worth over a grand.

From my research it seems like the only DX32s left are remaining stock; most of the rims listed on the Alex website are not in production, they are just there in case an OEM wants to buy 10,000 of them. According to Alex rims europe they will do a production run if you want to order 30 or more, but I never got a price for that.

I got quite an old one with a bike. Before riding it I was a sceptical, but having all those engagement points really is superb for increasing your confidence going into any pedal-related move. I haven't tried a pro 2 trials... the extra ~50% engagement points on the CK might not be that noticeable compared to the p2t, but I would say if you can get a second hand CK then go for it.

The plastic bushing might have become deformed due to being tightened in the wrong allignment with the calliper, or it might not be properly seated in the mounts (that's the problem i had).

Are your brake levers at the correct angle? I was riding a new bike the other day, and my wrists were getting uncomfortable. I turned the levers so that when I'm stood on the bike with finger on the brakes, the back of my hand formed a straight line with my forearm, and this helped a lot. You probably already did this, but I thought it worth mentioning. My levers are now pointing almost straight down but it seems to work for me.

Heh, it wasn't memory; the topic I linked to was about 5 items lower on the page

This thread is so similar to this one I actually thought it was the same thread with posts somehow deleted. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=139078 He even describes his current wheel as being like a 50p, and wants something that can hold a grind!