ForrestDump

I personally think the Simtra ST-1 looks quite good, has dual Maguras too which is good.

Well I don’t think there’s anything worse, but that is my opinion, some people might like them, however I would go for that Lesson 24" while it’s still for sale.

Well I can see why you don't want to spend much for a bike as you are new to trials; however, the more you spend the better the bike will be (theoretically speaking). In my opinion I wouldn’t go for the 'cheap' 26" Onza, therefore if I were you I would defiantly go for that Lesson 24", looks like a rather good bike, especially for £300, and the only thing you would need to buy extra would be a front brake.

If I were you I would try and have a go on both a 26" and 24" before you buy a bike to see which size you prefer. As for buying a bike defiantly check through the 'For Sale' section on here as some pretty good bikes pop up now and again for around the same price as that Onza, also the parts on used bikes are usually quite good so there would be no need in buying new parts which you may want to do if you bought the Onza.

I think those wheels are going to have a very short life from now on.

I'm 6'3 ish and I ride a mod comfortably, so yes, you should be fine on a 24".

For a beginner I think that the riding was quite good. However....if youre going to make more videos I would defiantly recommend experimenting with different camera angles, wider shots in particular as you can only have many shots of walls and wheels. Also I do like Pendulum but in my opinion I dont think blood sugar is a suitable song for trials. Other than that the riding was good, keep it up mate. Edit: A bit more colour too.

You could cut and thread your own, then you've only got yourself to blame if it didn’t end up how you wanted.

No matter what the reason.....Keep your lid on! I ride with shin pads on too as I got fed up of getting massive cuts on my shins from slipping off the pedals, however the one day I didn’t wear them I slipped again and had to go and get my shin glued and stitched, a lot of hassle for not putting them on.

I couldn't decide either when I was looking for a Hope to replace the Magura I had up front. In the end I went with the Hope Tech Trial and I cannot fault it, works a treat and the Tech lever is really adjustable so it's very easy to get a lever feel that suits you.

TGS is not a word, it stands for Taps, Gaps and Sidehops if I’m not mistaken, which basically covers typical trials riding.

I would defiantly agree with this as this is the freewheel that I'm currently using and I haven’t had any problems at all with it at all. I've used the Echo, the Rockman 108 and a Tensile 60 click and although the Echo is the most expensive out of the three I'd defiantly say it's well worth it.

Good to hear, sounds like exactly the same problem, when i tightened the loose spot in the chain on my friends bike the tight spot was so tight that when you rolled the back wheel round backwards the cranks also span around backwards due to the chain being so tight around the freewheel. If the chain is too tight then it can wear out the bearings quicker (I think).

A friend of mine has the same problem and also has the same freewheel that you are using. I fiddled about with his setup to try and find the problem, at first I thought it was the cranks (Onza cranks) causing the problem so I tried them on my bike with my freewheel, an Echo SL; although the tight and loose spots were still there they were not as bad as they had been on his bike before. The reason for the tight and loose spots is down to something being out of centre (I think) which results in a cam like effect, so if it’s not your cranks causing the problem then it may be the freewheel (I think). Hope this will provide an answer to your problem.

I don’t know what 'The Best' handlebars to get are as I haven’t used them all haha, however I've currently got V!Z 720 Pro bars on my mod and I think there perfect, nice sweep, rise and really comfortable, they look the bees knees too.

Hum, I’m not sure on that one; I think it's down to how much pressure you're running in the inner tube rather the size of it. Less pressure will mean that the tyre will fold more around an object when landing on it, lower pressures also give a slower bounce when on the back, therefore a higher pressure inner tube, I think, is more likely to puncture due to it not being able fold around objects as easily when landing as a tyre with a lower pressure.

Well my Try-All Sticky 19" rear has a '2.5" rear profile' as stated on Tarty's, yes the Kenda is a fat tube but it fits my Try-All fine, just make sure you get the whole inner tube inside the tyre and not between it and the rim before you pump it up fully so make sure you check. So with a bit of work and fiddling about then yes the Kenda probably will fit your tyre.

I can’t comment on the Echo, however I have used the Monty tube on the back before with a 19" Try-All Stiky, worked well but I did get a few punctures, however this may have been down to my level of riding as I had it when I had just started learning. I'm now using a Kenda 19" DH which is brilliant, I think it's the fattest inner tube on Tarty's and I haven’t had any punctures when using it at all and I've been using it on the back for about a year now so it’s lasted quite a while too, well worth the money. Kenda 19" DH Tube

That sounds like a good plan. Nike do tend to bring out new designs/styles for a lot of their shoes all the time, therefore dropping the price of their older, not as new designs, however they all do the job really well, if you can try and find yourself an 'older' style of 6.0's for a reasonable price, if not then defiantly go with a similar, less expensive brand.

Ah I see, I think its the pins with me as they wear through section of my shoes with thinner soles. On NikeID there is a pair of Nike6.0's that you can choose between a stiffer or flexible sole, however shoes off of NikeID are quite pricey as you customise them to your liking, therefore you could try and find the same type of shoe on some other site for a lot less.

I'm not sure whether or not your feet will just stop aching after time as it’s the pins that are the problem; I've had the same problem when I ride. I have a couple of different shoes I ride in, one pair are Emerica HSU skate shoes which I found gave the flex around the pedal I wanted but after time the pins did wear away holes in the sole. I'm currently using a pair of Nike 6.0's which are perfect, they have a good flex and grip onto my pedal nicely, I haven’t had a problem with aches in my feet while wearing these either which is good.

I would defiantly go with hairspray, as for getting them off again I found that the best way to do it is to roll the grip off of the bar from the lever to the end.

I would defiantly suggest heating the crank, but with a hair dryer instead as you can constantly heat the crank, its also a lot less hassle than having to heat it over and over with water, you could also try packing ice around the axle off the BB. If you loosen the crank bolt to see if the crank will hopefully slip off you might round off the taper on your bb so I wouldnt recommend that. When my cranks where stuck I gave the sections where the cranks touched the BB a good spray with some WD40, I would avoid using a bar to give more leverage though as the extra force may ruin the threads inside your crank or on the puller, however it's worth a try if nothing else works.

I give breakless a go every now and again just for a change to the normal stuff. Anyway, I found that the '180 endo' without breaks was a lot easier with less air in the front tyre as it felt like it stuck more due to it being that little bit sloppier, therefore grippier.

Ah ok then, thanks.