niconj

They do! I love them.

I do happen to have all but one of the mentioned tires for sale. Just pm me for more information.

Had the same with my Trialtech hub. I my case it was that the axle end stops (the ones where the bearings rest on) were too narrow. That is, the inner ring of the bearings, the one that rests on the axle end stop, was pushed too wide into the hub and therefore didn't spin nicely. I cannot really explain it in better words. Just try moving the axle from left to right when not mounted. If it moves either the bearings aren't pressed in wide enough into the hub shell or it's the problem I've tried to describe. To solve the latter, get some 0.2mm washers and put them on the axle stops. I needed 3x0.2mm on either side to get it fixed.

I don't know any old Gus

Almost done. Just have to get some 175mm cranks and will have to change them old wellgos. Trialtech rims had to go as for the front it was too wide and on the rear the Echo just performs better brake wise with the Trialtech pads. It's actually 100% better than with the Trialtech Rim-TNN ADM pad combo. Weight penalty on the rear with the Der Kaiser Project tire. I could actually save 250gr. just by changing to a Try All Sticky Light tire but who actually cares... 8.8kg Gu 26¹ by niconj, on Flickr Gu 26² by niconj, on Flickr Gu 26³ by niconj, on Flickr

I cannot explain it but the Echo SL rim seems stronger when building up than the Trialtech SL rim even though the latter is 50gr. heavier.

Because it makes it easier but with a M10 bolt Snail cams aren't really necessary.

Sounds like when gapping almost no pedal kick is needed.

I started at 33.

Hm.... I kinda get what you mean but want to clarify. It happens pretty often that when I jump off the edge of sth. that I cannot really jump very far as the wheel drops down as soon as I pedal hard. From what you write (and what I've seen in various videos) it's actually the right position but (as Adam wrote) I would need to jump harder and pedal less?

Ok. Thanks... so this is what I practice every day but it's kinda hard to find the right position before jumping off.

What is a pinch gap? Does this mean that you jump off the edge and pinch your tire?

Is the Echo SL Rim made of the same material?

It depends on the pad compound I think. I run ADMs and cannot complain about the grind not lasting enough. I suppose that due to the soft material they hold a grind less than a harder rim though.

As I stated above. I have bought 3 new Racing Line levers. Two of them very good, the last one (a Nano) leaked.

I just ground two different 26'' rims; one a Kabra front rim and the other a Trialtech SL rear. I used a 1mm metal disc for the Trialtech as usual and it's pretty easy to grind. Taking the same (new) disc on the Kabra rim I was pretty surprised as I couldn't really get a sharp grind as the rim material seems very hard. I took the paint off the rim but the rim stayed smooth. I then took a 4mm stone grinding disc and the grind got better. Anywho... I was wondering whether there are pads out there that work better on hard rims and ones that work better on not so hard rims. From my experience I know that Trialtech pads work very well with Echo TR rims and that ADM pads work well with Trialtech rims... Is the Echo TR rim made of hard material or not? I cannot really remember.

A little update on this. As I rebled the brake yesterday I found that the bleed barbed fitting that comes with the lever would screw in very reluctantly. I then took it out and found that the seal was gone. As I took an allen key to take it out of the bleed hole, I got out not only this seal but another a little bigger one. Is there a seal inside this hole? I thought the only seal that was there was the seal of the grub screw. Anywho... I took a Magura grub screw and it doesn't leak anymore.

I don't think he actually made that drop.

Tried it today and it really seems to hold up. With the racing line bolt (seal is intact) it leaked when only pulling the lever slightly. Now it doesn't pulling it hard. Thanks. So back to topic. I've got a Kabra 32mm rim that will fit perfectly through my forks and I will actually be able to ride this bike for the first time.

I bought this lever off a forum but I was the first one who bled it as it was new. I have bought three new racing line levers over the time (two of them from an official dealer) and have never had any spare O ring inside the box. Only the bleed thingy. edit: - Supplied with all red aluminium fixings: handlebar clamp bolts, pivot bolts and grub screw for the M6 bleed port.

I just bought a different rim (Kabra 32mm) and new Spokes. I will rebuild the wheel with the existing rim and spokes as soon as I get a special offer on the Echo TR hub I build it with. Then I'll sell the wheel. For now I am happy with the 100gr. weight loss on the front even though I would've liked a wider and heavier rim as it's more stable I think.

Thanks Barry but I think that the forks have been changed or sth. There's no way that a 37mm rim fits through my forks using standard pads. I'll get a 32mm rim I guess. Cannot trim down pads every time I get new ones.

Not worth the hassle then. Kinda sucks. I tried to find a 32mm(isn) front rim with an ERD of the Trialtech rim and 32 holes to be able to use the front hub and spokes but it's impossible.

This is the one I've got in my racing line lever. Seems to be working just fine... NOT!