niconj

I might be mistaken but the DTs only have 18 engagement points and if you buy the upgrade 36. Go for the HOPE! Tune hubs aren't that good really. Way to expensive for what you get. Go for the HOPE.

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As I don't know about any trials rules except to never put down a foot, what's the rule? Also, was this so difficult that he just put down his foot right away?

Dunno. Two of mine leaked at the bleed screw that much that even ptf tape would work. The third would've worked with the modification tarty to. Dunno... p.s.: Have you noticed that LOL in Trials Forum means "little old lady"

BB7s should do the trick if you're on a tight budget (they actually work very well) As for the Rotors... get the normal SLX RT66 ones.

Really like the springy part of it. Looks like fast forward to me.

Lol! I've had 3 and they were all faulty. Our German Trialshop took them all back and out of its program because I wasn't the only one with warranty claims. p.s.: I'm talking about the newer version.

Both if I'm not mistaken. Have to correct myself. Front Hub with bolts and washers = 67, rear with bolts and washers = 106

Custom made.

The ones I showed aren't speedrace hubs and they are way lighter as well. I think the front is around 40gr. with bolts.

Hm... seems like a lot of work... But at least you get what I mean by my rear wheel not moving much. Thanks for the suggestion with leaving the brake off. I'll do that.

This. I found 4Nm (w/o grease) to be more than sufficient.

Haven't had any problems with this. Trialtech pads basically fall out of the backing when doing this.

I wouldn't say so. I'm still trying to get a mate of mine to give me some decent pictures of his bike. He uses these hubs for instance. Can't buy them anywhere or not in mass at least.

Went out today and did what was suggested here. I did like 200 side hops and somehow got the "land front wheel first" thing done. What doesn't feel right is the kick, rear wheel barely moves still... preload could be better as well...

Put into oven, heat up to around 150°C, get them out with some gloves on.

See forum for further oppinions. In short: it's a gamble, either they work for a long time or they leak after a short time. Braking performance isn't any better than the HS33 with a 4 finger blade.

And I thought it was quite the contrary... interesting...

Yeah. Thanks, That's what I figured out. It's not that I don't know how to pedal kick but it's kinda weird doing it while sidehopping. Have to work on that a lot.

I know it's rather optimistic but as you guys pointed out, it's the technique rather than pure strength. So if I get the technique right in the next couple of months, I should be able to put on a pallet or two I think... not sure though.

Should've said it then. Will do, will do. Would 7 pallets be a realistic goal for this season? I can get on five I think with my crappy technique.

Oh ok. Yesterday I tried to put force into the pedal kick and found out that I really have problems with this technique. I can jump higher with the bike keeping the rear wheel locked than with the kick*. I guess I have to practice this a lot more. I also have a mental block when trying to go higher. I'm kinda afraid of not being able to bail out when it is needed. I guess I will practice the Sidehop on a lower obstacle to get the technique right and then go higher step by step. *On the other hand, kicking when gapping isn't hard to do.

The entire video is crap.

Come again? With "my rear wheel doesn't move" I meant my rear wheel barely spins when doing the Sidehop.

Thanks. I really hope you're right. Right now I find it hard to really preload and pedal kick when jumping*. The first is really interesting as I do squats ATG (ass to grass). *my rear wheel barely moves when doing the side hop.