The Dude

buy some new seals off heatsinkbikes, coat them luciously all over in packing grease (assured seal) and bleed with whatever the hell you like. RBs are beautiful levers, they just get old and leak, but easily kept with a new set of seals

HS33 adjusters?....no what the hell are they? sorry, but i cant see what these funny shaped and coloured bits of metal from echo do. can someone explain?

depends how you ride. a steel frame will be stronger; but if you ride it like a sack of bricks you should probably go for the 5<lb mark. yet if your a feathery street rider with light gaps, tight taps and treat it well, then the comp will do you nicely for a good few years only thing i dont like about the curtis is the price, hence why i baught a leeson. but its your choice mate

its pretty simple really, the only parts you want to replace are: XC front hub, so you know you can rely on your front wheel. buy a new chainring, cassette, mech and chain, the difference youll notice will be unreal can get a new BB, just to make it run smoother, but its not essential. the rest of the parts would all fit onto a 24" with ease, just take care putting it together, and get someone else to build the wheels, you should be fine. if youve got a hope of king headset, keep it, if not, buy a new one as for the trialsy bars, they should feel fine on a zoot as its quite long and low (but downsized) Si

viz bars and stem are pretty good, any old elcheapo headset will be 90% the same, get a hope in my opinion, theres not that much point waxing money on an ENO, just get a claw and locktite it. as for pedals, stick to V8 lookalikes, cheap as chips, and work well as pedals

Very muchly weather depending, ill be down on my semi mod.

nothing less than exquisite. looks pretty light to ride, and montys are reliable frames atleast. just ride it. It is what you treat it as, call it a piece of crap, and it will be, ride it and itll be the best bike in the world. Thanks Jez for explaining it like that, im actually going to start riding smoothly now Si

doesnt make too much of a difference for the price, just put some more effort in. its good to go for this trick on a wall you can easily backwheel. (your not going to be able to learn it on a 55" wall) when the frontwheel is on, keep your legs straight, get yor chest down to 6-8" over your bars. remember that most of the hop comes from your chest and pulling up with your arms, so basicly launch them high as thell go from here, and remember to bring the bike up with you. now stop, max payne style, in mid air and just push your backwheel that 1" that has to go to land on the wall.

The Heastsink frame looks trialsy, im astounded, very good idea steve, if only i didint have a leeson id buy one. get a 24", there just so fun to ride, flickable (in the upwards direction aswell) and balance so lightly. Si

worth a try, the O.D. of a 5mm helicoil is about 5.85mm, as far as i know, so it may be a little loose, but they expand a bit any way. go down to ur hardware shop and buy a set for about £10 and give it a try, if not, just file out the mounts to fit an M6 screw

stop looking at porn, trials-nation wouldnt do that. try quicktime?

Someone had to say it, and couldnt be a better person to than mike. best rant ive read in a while (and alot more point than most of them too) the 24" zoot looks an ideal ride for someone who wants a lighter trials bike, bit not a pogo stick (mod) I have a leeson and have to say the workmanship will be hard tried to be beaten by machines and is such a fun ride as you can mix up everything youve ever imagined and pulls it off flickier than a bmx.

it is actually a good idea, a longer bolt would make it unbelievably stronger, as alot of ali frames have got just 3/4 turns in the block, leaving less than enough to helicoil when it all goes tits up. different matter in steel, but partz is onto a v good idea, bit fiddly with bolts and all, but would be fixed with a bit of glue

get onto the front wheel by backwheeling up the wall (now it all changes) and throwing the front wheel down, getting your shoulders over the bars will help it to just sit at the right height. then for the swap, just do a front hop off the wall, throw your hands in the air and bring your legs forwards to touchdown the back wheel. from there i find it easier to keep my balance low and just kick the pedals to roll onto the top of the wall (rather than hopping up) practice does obviously help, and a wide wall aswell. speed helps, because the momentum throws you the right way, just you can land too far on the front wheel untill youve learnt the technique. go out and try it, this is what works for me, youve got to go and work out your own way, but i hope these tips will help.

found out its got a c-clip close thread.

i found Chain Lube works best (thick enough to stay in, thin enough to let the pawls engage) just fill ur acs up with it, locktite it back together and itll ride for a good 4 months. works well in hubs aswell, all i use in my bulb (now 3 years old)

Looks like any other frame on the market, just a bit smaller. its a good innovation, giving a natural bike 24 characteristics. be better if they could come up with a new design aswell.

Ill be out on sunday, looks like a good turnout. you can knock pinky off the list aswell, hes got a family dinner as well. ive got nothing better to do, so i may well ride monday aswell, speak to me on sunday, or on the_dude_si@hotmail.com theres free parking up by halfords, but its about a mile out of the way, and as john said, dont park in the middle of town, or you will get a fine (i know from experience)

Yes you can (pinky) But its better to buy the full game (learn how to play it) (si)

you let down of a american :closedeyes:

what about those of us with an official bleed kit (stupid idea for £20), at after use are lacking olives, the hoses and christmas trees? id be interested in one of them, (with or without srynge at that price)

Gotta be my leeson.