RobinJI

According to one set of comp rules 24" is definitely stock, I just cant remember if its UCI or the other one. It said in an old MBUK in an article that Ashton wrote that to enter in the stock category you needed 26" or 24" wheels, at least 6 gears and no sump guard as a basic definition of trials rules.

Sorry I dont know what length BB for ISIS, its a 68mm shell though, I found one shop that told you what length was needed with ZOOs but ant remember anything other than that it wasn't tarty or the zoo site.

The mounts on chain reaction cycles just need brazing in position and then the magura putting on. If you currently have Vee mounts I expect they would haave to be hacksawed off and filled smove to alow room for the braze-ons.

It all depends on your cranks mate. I'd just go with a 127.2mm because that way you wont have to worrie and it will give a good chain line on most cranks, asuming you're running square tapper.

Its a Blunt Jump/Slalom frame, but you can get then labled CBRs among other names. Sound frames concidering you can get em for £80 on CRC. Well there better than alot, not ideal for trials but preaty good for begining. Ride best with a 5" fork so rigids prove the only real problem, get some nice long ones.

They look like two sets that are knocking around my work that i was looking at today, only yours have disc mounts. Anyway one of the ones at my work are GTs and the others are unbranded.

HOPE SPOKE CALCULATOR

Im preaty sure the HS33s are 15mm but I dont have a clue about the luise FR. The luise is open system though but you probly knew that.

Im now very tempted to try the same thing with the E4 I have lying around at home, because then I could use the lever (with some closed sytem internals) with my rear maggie and have amazing breaks (Y) , but I'd rather get a No'5 caliper half to reduce my rotor to 165mm.

As far as lever adjustment goes theres nothing you can realy do about it, its the problem with open system breaks, they always reset to a set position no matter what, which is great with heat build up and padwere but not when you want to adjust the bloody things! All you could do is to put on an Avid Jucy 7 or Hayes el-camino lever instead of the formular. If youre feeling cheep you could just adjust the reach right out and then put a zip tie around to stop the lever going out all the way, but even then i think the open system would adjust to youre bodge and skrew it up again. Worth a try though.

It should be an M5 thread, same as 4 bolt mounts and bottle rack bolts. Carefull where you drill the wholes, as the stress factor at the edge of any round whole is 3 times that of a solid piece of material. so it is there for 3 time more likely to crack where you put the whole than it was before the whole was there. It should be fine though, just make sure its a low stress area that can handle more than 3 times the amount of stress its getting at the moment.

I actually made a calculator for disc breaks using MS Excel. You just put in the piston diameters and lever length and stuff and it would tell you how far the lever would have to be pulled before it contacted and the leverage ratio, but its at my dads house not here (Y) . As for the hope-magura, I really hope you mean a magura disc, because theres no way that an HS33 caliper will work on a hope mini lever, maybe an old closed pro lever but not a mini. really closed systems are the best to bodge because everything is adjustable, Id love to see an old closed pro lever with a magura HS33 rigged up to it, in theory it would be amazing but your wheel would have to be trued with a fuggin micrometer. What you need to do to bodge a good break it find a break that uses large cylinders all round and put the lever off a break that uses small ones on it e.g. Hope XC4 or C2 caliper with a small diameter lever, but I cant think of any closed system ones right now. :D . In fact those and the Giant MPH are the only closed breaks I can think of at all and the MPH is practically a C2.

Its just any standard threaded quick release axle. Your LBS should have one. But you could buy a whole new hub, nick the axle out of it and then have lots of spare parts left over. :huh:

I'm English and i think busted suck and the hold steady rule but hay, its all down to personal taste and wether you care about if the music is comercial pop rock for 5 year olds. (soz if I offended you.)

The Hold steady are an amazing new band from Brooklin, NY. They have a really individual style and in my opinion its a really good style. You can download a couple of there tracks off of there site Here. Tell me what you think of them.

Cheers guys. It looks like I wont get one straight away as i may be able to get me KOXX to last untill the 06 ranges come out from all the maufaturers (Y) . and hopefuly they will beef up the bash mount and make it a realy sweet frame! :P . A realy cool engeniering place welded up my KOXX for free (and did a good job of it), and now its freshly sprayed 'british racing green' (with a chain stay protecter covering the new weld) it looks good as new, just need to see if its gunna re-crack (Y) . Hopefuly I wont be spending much time on here over whats left of the summer, because I'll be out riding in all my spare time! :D .

Last thing I knew they were all cracking where the sump guard mount was welded to the down tube? I was just wondering if Onza have fixed this problem with them yet, because id be preaty interested in buying one if they?

This is to fix the bolt insitd the red adjuter knob thing (TPA I think?) take off the lever blade and take out all of the workings so youre left with this: Take a standard 4 bolt magura mounting bolt and hacksaw it to about this length: hacksaw a slot in the top of the bolt wide enough to slot this peice on magura in to: like this: Reasemble using the magura bolt instead of the original bolt and away you go. :(

if you want advice on building up a jump bike then add me to msn at ringwams@hotmail.com, I ride jump and work as a mechanic in a bike shop so I should be able to help you. Also try posting on MBUK forum, they have a section for dirt jumping where you'd probably get better advice. Mbuk forum

I have a yellow anodized Mavic 517 knocking around which is going on the front of my trials bike but it needs a hub. I thought it would look cool if anyone made a yellow anodized hub to go with it. I'm looking for a light weight non-disc hub idealy. Also what screw on bash/ring combo in 22t is the best value for money? Cheers dudes (and dudets)

Try spining the wheel while holding a file against the outer edge of the rotor until it stops rubbing.

Most of its just personal preference, run them however feels comfy, there aren't really any rules on the subject, just whatever feels best. I would run a riser so that the rise is going forwalds at an almost 45 degree angle so the sweep is coming straight for you, but I know some people who just run eastons in a traditional XC position, (verticle rise, sweep going backwalds).

Imo, neither are great. I think that Octalink is the best interface as it is a compromise between the two, it has a larger axle than square taper with a splined interface, so it doesn't round but the axle isn't as big as with ISIS so the bearings are still reliable. The only problem being that you are very limited in arm choice, especially with 5 arm spiders. The other option is an external BB, like the RaceFace X-type cranksets, because the bearings are large and you still get a large axle and a splined interface. However you may damage the left hand BB cup doing trials as it is external and therefor exposed. I'd just stick with square taper as long as its good quality stuff. (poor cranks will round and poor BB will snap in half very painfully :turned: ).

nice one John, now you just need to learn how to ride the bugger. :) It used to be a birds bike but theres nothing wrong with a bloke riding a purple bike.

If you get a set of MX comp ETAs then there standard travel can be set to 80mm and if you flick the ETA switch then it reduces down to 30mm.