RobinJI

My only quite local shop that has trials specific stuff is saddles and paddles in Exeter, but my LBS wheels in motion is awesome, just cant get a lot of the really specific stuff. But then again if you live in the midlands thats not much good..............

Gotta agree with the others, just save you're money and keep the mavics, there tougher and lighter than any of the wide rims around at the moment!

Or Xilisoft Video Converter 3 on the same site, because that will do loads of other stuff as well.

I'm in the middle of building my 24", Just weighting for my Iolo frame . I've just got an Alex DX32 (well a Planet X BMF) for the rear, and a rhino Light for the front, and a Tioga Factory DH 2.3 rear tyre, and Tioga Blue Dragon 2.1 for the front. I'm hoping its all gunna be good, Tyres were just a case of what I could get hold of that seem'd good. Rims wise I know the Alex is good because I've used a couple of em in 26", and the rhino light is really highly recomended.

Seriousy though, the frame on the Spcialized Hardrock is bombproof, it's also conciderable more nicely made than the kona. Many people have been known to use the frames for jumping, and they still hold out. You should go and have a look at one before dismising it. It seems the best value for money bike there, and is exactly what you're looking for. I'd say the frame beats the konas hands down.

Ahh, that I can explain. It is all because of what side of the road we drive on. Obviously when Indication on a push bike, you stick your arm out preventing you being able to reach the break, If you're gunna only have one break available, I'm sure everyone will agree it is a lot nicer to only have the rear. In England because we drive on the left hand side of the road it is more important to indicate when turning right as you are cutting across the traffic, so the rear break needs to be on the left, allowing you to indicate, where ass in other countries where people drive on the right its more important to indicate left, so you need the rear break on the right.

The way I see it is buy the part thats gunna be the best for what you want to for, that if it has colour/style options, fair play, get the one that is gunna suit your bike best, but dont compromise functionalty for looks. Although I'm sure you knew that. My personal opinion on what looks best is to color/pimp a few bits but not too much, so maybe, bar and rims, maybe headset, but no more, or hubs, stem, bashguard, nipples. Just dont pile everything on there and it looks good. I'm not a fan of wheels that have anodized/coloured rims and hubs, its just overkill. Chrome is the same, just dont have too much, Gotta love chrome frames with everything else black! At the moment I'm going for understated looks, bare steel frame, black/grey everything else

Onza/tensile make or are soon gunna be making offset 4-bolt mounts Heatsink boosters are stiff as fook, also Leesons look damb nice and are also very stiff. As for the seat tube thing, just hacksaw it off, then put in one of the seats thats like a little plastic seat, with an expander wedge at the bottom, I'm sure I've seen those someware, but can't find them right now.

As above really, anyone know which Shimano crank sets take the spline fit spiders? I know the old XTR do, but I'm not sure about any of the newer models, I love there cranks, but there all 4 bolt!

This man speaks the truth, as listed in the KMC catalogue in front of me: The K710 (1/8th inch Kool chain) and K810 (3/32th inch Kool chain) both have a breaking load of 1300KG The K710SL (1/8th inch Kool chain super-light) has a breaking load of 950kg, while it is 20% lighter than the standard K710 That's a 37% increase in strength for a 20% increase in weight, if you ask me, stick with a standard Kool chain, or to save a few grams and get a better fit on mtb sprockets, get the K810.

If you're worried about the problem described about the drive side flange having more stress on it when gaping then get the wheel built with radial lacing on the non-drive side, so that the only side receiving/giving rotational force is the drive side, isolating the force, and stopping the problem. But the Problem would be reduced on a king anyway, as the drive is transmitted to near enough the center of the hub, due to not using the traditional pawl/ratchet drive system, so the force would be more spread over the 2 flanges.

A skatepark got built across the road from me, after something like 7 years campaigning, it ended up being shit and unsafe. So all I've got to say, is to make sure that there is rider input in the design, or you'll end up like chard, with a £30000 flatbank, quater and box. But then again my area is shit. I'm not saying not to try for it, infact the oposite, try as hard as you can and you will get something built, but make sure you/your friends see it through to the end, and check over the designs.

I'd definatly say that the Specialized Hardrock Pro 2006 looks like the best for that money, all the kit on its great. Marzochis are always reliable, Specialised frames are awesome, hayes sole discs are reliable and hydraulic, some came on my mongoose and they were great, and the sram shifting stuff kicks shimanos ass any day, its a much lighter action, cable stretch has half the effect, and it skips alot less on the rough stuff. You should also note that if you buy a specialized with hayes so1es on it, they have upgraded lever blades on them, which feel a million times better than the standard ones.

erm... not having a go at Deng, but he isn't really that innovative, 116mm stock dropouts was 24seven, external BB's were shimano, and extreme geometry was koxx, wheres the innovation in copying other people's ideas? saying that I cant think of any built in boosters before the echos, although maybe the XTPs? but i don't know if that was before or after. Deng is good for trials though, give a shit load of good parts for good prices, and often mixes a few good ideas together, to get a really got product, only real problem is that his anodized stuff is getting painfully boring.

The only difference between the HS33 and the HS11 is the lever, so if you bought the HS11 and changed the lever, you would just have an HS33, so you might as well get the HS33, unless you're gunna get a RB lever strait away or something. The lever body is different too, so you couldnt just change the blade, you'd have to change the whole lever.

Why are you digging at him on how to get validated when you haven't yourself? As the person above said, new-members chat is a mixture of stuff, doesn't all have to be trials ^^^ theres the rest of the pictures ^^^

I get what you're saying, but thats not really a problem with using them in wider dropouts really is it. Thats caused by the larger wheel, so all these mod 26" bikes are gunna be screwed according to what you're saying. What about 135mm spaced profiles then? did they beef up the hub body to handle the extra torque? Id have thought that if the hub body it's self cant handle the extra torque, thats more of a problem with the hub design than the wheel size isn't it?

Hmmm someone should bring out aftermarket one piece splinefit 16/18/20t cog/bashring combos for burns. Thatway no-one would have a reason not to run them. As it is, you could get burns with a 20t and run 20-15.

If his flange ripped off it had nothing to do with it being a BMX width hub. The only thing that should have any extra stress put on it is the axel either where it is covered by spacers on a nutted axle, or the bolts and where the bolts go into the hub on a bolted one. Know of a few people doing it with other BMX hubs on jump bikes and its been fine, bunno about a king on a trials bike though.

Haha, could have something to do with it!

erm.... wheres the video then?

In my opinion coloured sidewalls are better, just means that if you run a disc you don't have a pointless shiny breaking surface, and if you don't then grind it or strip off/let the paint wear through, it's win, win. Yeah, they do indeed look painfully unoriginal, just another taiwanese made huge lump of alloy, that's probably gunna fold due to having no impact strength anyway, for once they might have made em out of a decent alloy though, in which case they may kick ass, but to me will always look cack.

Hey, Yeah, I've heard it all called lots of different things just within one town, so not surprised to hear a new one ha ha, (although skipping sounds like I'd get it confused with freewheel/gear problems) not to mention you'd feel a tw*t telling someone you learned to skip the other day! Anyway, what you need to do is to just learn to become controlled on the rear wheel, its much better and more comfortable to get to the edge with several small hops (or skips if you like) than one long one. So just get on the rear wheel, then edge your way towards the edge until you're rite at the edge, then tuck down and kick off the edge, and extend your arms/legs in the air so that you've got there full length to adsorb the drop smoothly. Then once you get totally confident doing that, just for the hell of it, it can be fun to just do one larger hop to the edge, or even just role on the rear wheel up to the edge. Hope I helped Edit: Talking of large drops, I absailed down a 100ft cliff this morning!

18T-15T when chain is tight chain stays need to be 379mm 18T-16T when chain is tight chain stays need to be 375mm 20T-17T when chain is tight chain stays need to be 379mm 22T-18T when chain is tight chain stays need to be 381mm 22T-19T when chain is tight chain stays need to be 379mm Thats what BT say about chain lengths, and it all seems to check out so with 380 or 375mm stays theres a few options of gears you could run, any that need a CS length of 379 if you just let you're chain stretch a little then it'll work with 380s obviosly. One of my mates runs mis ashton with 20-17, and now he'd be fine without his tensioner with about one month old chain.

I've got a really punk mate who has a nipple pierced and it seems OK on him, but he just wouldn't be him without his piercings. Also know someone who was gunna get there 3rd nipple pierced, just for comedy value, haha. Dont really like it on girls to be honest, just seems like it'd get in the way, and it'd be pretty hard for there body to seem flawless with bits of metal sticking out of it!