RobinJI

Or maybe those people had better things to do than point out tiny errors that other people have made and thought they would try and make themselves useful to the topic starter by actually ansering there question. (because isn't that the point of TF?) He cold be dislexic (spl? (oh the irony)) and I doubt the spell checker is going to know the word 'pitbull' Sorry mate nothing personal, its just that allot of people seem to do this (over react to tiny mistakes) on here and its becoming really anoing. Anyway, There is allot more to take into account when picking a frame size than its wheelbase (as you probably know), for example my 24seven has a 1060mm wheelbase and rides allot shorter than my 1070mm woodman despite having similar rear end lengths. all you can do really is try riding frames or trust the manufacturers judgement.

I use Primos with the flange cut off for trials. and O.D.I. intense lock ons for jump, which are perfect rubber and design wise but are to short and fat for trials.

My bike has that bodge on it right now (I've got some 4 bolt mounts but they put the slave cylinders to far out so I need new pads and I'm skint.) But you wont be able to use your boosters because the spacing is wider, although you can re drill it in the right place. :P

Thats what I thought when I was buying my V24 in the 2nd week they'd come out! look at them now! :shifty: Ah well at least the crome finnish is still rare... ish. The Ashton mod looks nice. I know what you mean, thats why I ended up getting my 1070 woodman but its still pretty long. (well, that and the fact its not just a clone of some other bike like most trials bikes seem to be). ah well at least that ones stayed rare. :shifty:

Ah, you're forgetting one thing, Sods law says if it has a 1 year warranty it'll be amazing for 364 days, creak woryingly on the 365th and snap on the 366th. Does look nice but a bit of a copy of the BTs looks wise. I generaly prefer original looking stuff (explains my Woodman).

Ha no offence mate but I imediatly thought you meant theres no way of you coming too soon because of the way your bird looks, wonder why that could be :-" . Ah well I carn't pass judgement because I haven't seen your bird and I think you're trying to say shes fit so I'm glad for you. My girlfriend says she'll only have a go on my bike if I ware loads of make-up. Ah well shes got a point. P.S. Hopefully some pics of my bird riding and me in makeup soon.

Just a little video of me and my mates messing around doing street trials (and some street and jumpin the first half). I'm they guy on the woodman/24seven. I've only been riding trials since easter so please don't laugh at me. :- . I was trying some Ryan (spl?) Leach style setup hopless stuff for some of it :lol: . What do you think of the editing, I haven't spent forever on it but i tried a bit (Y) . Hope you lot like it despite the crappy riding quality. I've tried searching for this but couldn really find what I want. So do any of you know of any good video software that I can probably download from limewire? It would help if it will except most music/video file types. Well hears the video (BTW its a tiny bit under 20mb and 3 mins long.)

The 'avid caliper bracket for 185' should be right. Ive found Hayes discs nice in the past. The copy that hope does works very well and is slightly cheeper and nicer looking (has the spokey things from the old M4s but a hayes breaking surface.)

Do you lot reckon my Woodman T-comp would handle a rear disc? I only ask because I have an only E4 lying around and it seems a shame not to use such a nice break. pic of the 20mm thick dropout: http://www.pinkbike.com/modules/photo/?op=viewℑ=498091

bit off topic but are the woodman bars any good? i was going to get them but they were out of stock so I got some easton EA50s.

Try and get hold of one of those really oldschool all plastic BMX seats, there amazingly cool! If I had a steat post I'd put one on my bike. One of there jobbies:

I had that problem when we (me and Prawn) first bodged together my maggie but on the other slave cyliner, chances are that it just needs tightening and bleeding like mine did. If you don't already then bleed it with water (make sure you flush out the oil first) as this will allow you to bleed it anywhere very easily if you shove a bleed kit in your bag. Prawn found this the other day when he reblead his maggie in the middle of plymouth using water from a fountain. Cheers again to Prawn and his mate for the pieces of maggie that we managed to get to work as an entire break!

Yeah, theres a few pictures of them being used in the MBUK 15th anniversary issue. There pretty pointless now unless you want to position a chain devise behind your tyre for sprocet grinding on a street bike. No point on a 22t chainring though.

You should be able to see how it works from that picture but most of them don't use the weird pin, they just use a normal one. If you're worried about the reliability then you can get a shadow conspiracies halflink chain thats entirely made from halflinks which is very highly rated amongst BMXers and recently many trials riders. Chances are that you probably will still need to use a chain tensioner because they can still only adjust the chains length in 1/2 inches.

Does anyone know when the earliest I'm going to be able to get hold of a hope pro II trials hub. Its my birthday halfway through june and I don't know whether theres any chance of me getting hold of one by then. I know CRC say they will have them in stock in 6 weeks but if its at all possible to get hold of one before then I will be really happy!

I thought the idea of a wavy disc rotor is to stop the pads glazing by giving regular times at which the pads are scraped against a edge of the rotor e.g. a whole or wave. However the Viz rotor still has a large area that the pad would be in constant contact on it on the inner edge of the breaking surface. So in theory the pads would still glaze, but having not tryed it myself I carn't realy say if its crap or good.

If the thread in your cranks ever goes, then the best thing to do is to use a car fan wheel puller of thingy to take off the crank. They have 3 arms that you hook behind your bash guard (or a car fan wheel) and a stick that pushes on the bb where a normal crank extractor does.

If you're going to change then get the Juicy 7. If its that close and you don't mind about money then think about the practicalitys, the Juicy 7 is going to be much easier to home bleed if you get any problems, but hayes disks mostly have to be taken to a shop. You could try changing your Avids lever, I find that makes the biggest difference to any mechanical break. Try an XTR.

If you're gunna buy new cranks anyway then go for a front freewheel and lock up your existing hub because it works out allot cheaper. Other than that theres not allot of point, I'm probably gunna go back to a rear freewheel as soon as I buy a new hub, but there isn't really any major disadvantage to front freewheels like people have said on hear.

If you can get hold of one get an old Hope E4, there immensely powerful and have still got some modulation. I'm just saving for the right lever for mine, (at the moment its got a left hand lever).

I've gotta agree that it looks a bit discusting. I can understand them making a frame thats different, look at how well GT have done by having different looking XC rigs (triple triangle) but that doesn't give any disadvantages, whereas this looks like its gunna be weaker because any upwoulds pressure from the BB has nowhere to go because that seattube will gust flex or snap.

I find the best thing to do is to spit down them and slide them on, then when there dry they don't seem to move much. Make sure you have bar plugs that cover the end of the grip not just the whole in the bar, or water will get in the end.

Maggies defiantly can slip, just depends what kind of riding you do. Having the mounts on the back of the forks is a good idea because when the forwald force from the rim is applyed to the pads it yanks them forwalds. when this happens the mounts of the break flex around the fork leg slightly. If the break is mounted on the front they flex outwalds so that the only part of the pad giving you full power is the rear of it. However if the break is mounted on the reverse of the fork then the pads are yanked inwalds so that the front of the pads are still contacting just as strongly but the rear of them is hitting even stronger. The only possible dis advantage of this is that if you do allot of stalls on the front wheels balance point then if the breaks going to slip, it'll slip backwalds sending you over the bars.

Norco say its got a 1047mm wheelbase and has a 90mm stem, so yeah its pretty short. 4 bolt cranks alway seem so stupid for trials because the bash is miles away from the ring.

CRC are realy good, well built and goo prices. The one on the woodstocks an Onza Hog rim with 28 spokes going to I think a Hope XC disc hub Hope I helped, Robin.