RobinJI

Looking on that site I can't actually find the gold nipples, all I can find is the spokes, with no obvious way of specifying length/nipple colour. Anyone know how?

I think what he means is would it be possible to take off sideways as if you're going to side-hop the gap, then twist 90deg in the air so as to land like you've gaped it. If so, then yes, it's possible. And the other thing I think he means an abandoned Pool, like a lake jump, but pedal hopping into a swimming pool. In which case, I've heard of people doing it, but you have to re-grease you bike after obviously, and also it can damage the pools filter if its done too much.

Assuming this is right, and that the Urban's measurements on tarty are too, then it should work out as 677mm with a 100mm head-tube, 672 with a 90mm head-tube or 681mm with a 110mm head-tube, should be one of those then. divide by 25.4 for the length in Inch's

By the way, Sram mechs dont do this in the first place as only the cage is sprung.

Ah Yeah, my mate still has the shimano pads in his, and they suck co*k majorly

What the........ The U-turn on rock shox forks always has and probably always will be a travel adjuster that changes the travel of the fork, without altering the preload. If it does anything else on you're bike then its either a different adjustment thats not called U-turn, but might be in the same place, or its just plain broken. The latest rock shox use a lock out thats call 'POPLOC' not u-turn, could you be mistaken between the two? I'n my experience/opinion, the U-turn is a great adjustment thats alot tougher than other makes travel adjusters, blew the damping in my old psylos long before the U-turn ever even showed any wear.

Haha, I'm not from burnham! thats paul the guy whos e-bay accout it is. But then again, Chard not really alot better........ :$

I really don't get how this can/would happen to a correctly built wheel, its gotta even be a dodgy batch or a bad wheel build. If anyones worried about it happening to there profile then just build it up with four cross on the drive side and radial or two cross on the non-drive, that way the force from the rim will be isolated to the one side, meaning that there will be no twisting force on that part of the hub, and your spokes should go long before you're hub. I know I'd rather be replacing the odd snapped 75p max spoke than a £150+ hub and risking injury

Howies minro wool base layers are amazing, although pretty crazy money . You'll probably be fine in jeans and a T though, once you start riding you warm up quickly. A thin breathable waterproof can be nice if its pissing it down.

If you can tell me the BB rise, and head angle I can tell you a theoretical value using a graphics program

Should work fine, go for it They both use mineral oil, and the piston size isn't very different between the shimano and magura. If there's gunna be any difference then its gunna be the right way I expect (smaller master cylinder than usual) Edit: let me know how it goes, interested to find out.

Also in less extream case's it just stops your wheel being pulled forwalds in the dropouts making it go loose.

Yeah, well its mine, and I say he can sell if for me?? so whats the problem? Spose you're gunna report all the people who get mates/dads to sell stuff for them because they don't have an account. Becasue technicaly there dad/mate didn't own the stuff.

What about Heatsink Blues? There £14 a pair including postage. work pretty awsomely too. About halfway down the page.

Erm... hate to piss on your parade, but the GU doesn't actualy have a built in booster, so all this arguing is kinda pointless. But frames with boosters built in still flex sometimes, so boosters can be nice on them.

Well I can tell you now not to even think about bothering with the 4-pot XT for trials, they just dent hold you're wheel still, there really really nice breaks and stop you amazingly from speed with loads of power and feel, but there wank for trials, they just don't hold, even to the extent that my mate has trouble just doing ramp tricks on his jump bike with one on the back! Just use the Luise, there quality for trials

Dude, just my opinion, I just don't like replacing bits loads when you could have had one that cost twice the price of the cheep one, but lasted 4 times as long. Also I have no link with tarty bikes at all was just trying to give him an example of somware he could buy one from, could look through the list of dealers on the Pace website but thought that would be a bit over the top, as he didnt actualy express any interest in buying one. As far as cheep BBs go, I love them, in Octalink and square taper, but ISIS just wear out so quickly its stupid.

Onza Woodstock Those are nice if you've got the money. Could custom build a Base TA26, or a Planet X Ali Bongo 24" with a seat means custom so £350 frame at least or a Heatsink 24UK Affraid that second hand deals ect arnt aloud on new members chat, so all I can say is to look on e-bay and in privat adds, like on www.mbuk.com or similar Edit: Forgot about the T-rex spec Woodstock shown by the guy below, would also be a good choice.

^^^^^Dude, look up and read^^^^^

I'm affraid that theres not really alot you can do about this, I'f after you have both boosters on the frame still flex's then the only solution really, is a different booster thats more effective, but as you said, no more parts until next year. I'm assuming you've checked that it really is the frame flexing, not just a spungy feeling lever caused by a bad bleed?

Erm... thats pretty screwed up really, just explain to your mum that your forks are getting old and that if they break then you really could hurt yourself, I mean, if you pay for them yourself then I don't really see how she could object. Of corse you might be fine with your current forks.

ISIS is an International Standard of crank spline, It uses 10 very slightly tapered splines. While a lot stiffer and stronger than Square taper, it suffers from problems with bearing life, due to the enlarged size of the spindle not leaving enough room for bearings. So now riders have a choice; weak axle, or weak bearings. So at the end of the day I'd always say that if you're light/smooth enough to get away with square taper, it'll cost you a lot less in the long run. The only ISIS bottom brackets I think are worth looking at at the moment are the SKF's that can be found on tarty along with other places.

I'm kinda hoping people will realise its a joke, I told Paul to put that it was in brackets at the bottom or something, but he wouldn't. Probably gunna go to a freind or something, can't see who else would want it!

Haha, knowing Paul who posted it, he'll probably say that he put my soul in a jammy dodger or something like that and put that in the jar... But yeah, along those lines I guess. Also if you look in his other items I Think he's selling some of my mate Pete's pubes!! weirdo, there listed under 'hair extensions' hahahaha.

One of my mates was bored in college today. So like any normal person would, he put my soul on e-bay....................... hahahha Someone please buy it! like it says, no major sins..... well, not that major anyway..... e-bay link