Chakers1998

Hi All, Can anyone recommend some axle washers that are very sharp, like having a steel ring with serrations in the picture below? I've tried the ones that TartyBikes sell, but even putting lots of torque on the bolts they are still slightly moving, which is mashing the snail cams. I may have to buy some Hope QR nuts and see if my dad can machine them down to accommodate the bolt.

Please let me know how that goes. I know some people who bought these BBs a while ago and they've had no issues, so it will be interesting to see if it's perhaps a bad batch of BBs?

This happened to me as well! Fitted the BB on Friday and it went bang on the DJ ride yesterday. I'm going to have my frame reamed and faced at my bike shop.

Its come loose again!! I've deformed the steel above one of the drilled out holes from where I've filed the cam for bigger notches. I've been really tightening down the axle bolts so I can't understand why the cam is taking so much load, because ideally it shouldn't be.

I think the issue was when the bike was new I was using the Jitsie axle washers which have next to no teeth at all. Plus me probably not tightening down the bolts enough lead to the hub sliding in the dropouts and the cam taking all the load, hence the mashing. I had to swap out a borrowed BB today, which gave me a chance to look at the dropouts and the Tarty axle washers have left a good mark on the frame, plus sanding the frame where the washers clamp on must have helped a bit. Hopping around outside the house for a while hasn't made the chain loosen off, so it's looking like all systems are go. Thanks Everyone!

Snail cam bolt. The standard ones on an ozonys skill.

Hi Adam, As in what it is resting against Side to side? I've got some pics of that.

Found that I'd mashed the cam. Luckily, my dad has some needle files that were small enough to file some bigger indents on the cam. I had to file another indent on the cam after trying it the first time, because it mashed the cam again. The extra indent made the chain too tight, but when the cam bedded into the snail cam bolt, it got to an appropriate tension. This tension didn't change after bouncing around on the back wheel for 20 mins. I'll have to see how it holds up on the DJ ride, but fingers crossed I won't have a sloppy chain.

Hi Ali, I'm using a KMC Z1eHX chain which has a few hours on it now. The bike also has a few hours on it now and I've stopped having to adjust my headset, brakes etc. I do weigh a fair bit, which has the advantage of breaking in chains quite quickly, but it's certainly making the chain loosening worse.

Hello all, I've recently built a 26 comp bike that uses horizontal dropouts, and I'm having to constantly undo my wheel bolts to add more tension to the chain with the snail cams I've got. The cams are the steel Trialtech ones with lots of fine points. I'm not sure what is causing my chain to need constant adjustment after 15 mins of hopping around on the back wheel, but I sanded the dropouts and bought some more grippy Tarty axle bolt washers (the Jitsie race ones are horrid and have no grip at all) to see if that would eliminate it, which it hasn't. The wheel also isn't coming out of side to side 'true' with the rim brakes that I notice it, nor is it moving noticeably enough that the pads are coming out of alignment. I also can't see it being the chain bedding in, there's no way a chain would stretch that much to need constant tensioning. Should I file bigger notches in the drive snail cam to have more positive and secure clicks that do not have the possibility of winding back off? The Trialtech steel cams are very very finely cut with 108 clicks, compared to other brands who use around half that number. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

As someone who has only been in trials for a little more than a year, I really don't get the whole looking down at street riders thing. I had been told that comp riders looked down on street riders, but I didn't believe it myself until I went to a recent comp and then heard the scoffs from the comp riders when I was riding my Inspired around after the comp had finished. Plus, I've just built a comp bike up to start doing more natural trials and seeing how difficult it is, I have huge respect for the comp riders. I suspect the fact that street riding is more appealing to wider audiences than comp trials has a part to play in any jealousy/resentment that comp riders who put the time in don't get the same level of success or exposure.

I would personally have the Tech 3 Trial Zone on the back and front with Jitsie pads + 160mm discs. You don't really need the 4 pots on a mod, as the torque from the wheels is considerably less than a stock. I've never used the Trial Zone/Race lever, but I'm not a fan of the reach and bite adjust not being independent. Plus, I've heard they are not as good as the Tech 3's.

I'm liking where this is going!

I have joined the club, only its second ride.

@Mike Beck There is a Swindon ride next Sunday with the guys from FXN, if you are interested?

I've only used freeriders for trials (street) and they are great with Hope f20's. Grippy, but I've always been able to get my foot down when needed. I've read that Primeblues either break after a few rides, or feel horrible compared to "normal" ones. Chakers

Jitsie pads have a considerable increase in power over the standard Hope pads made by Galfer. I'm also wondering why you don't use the hope trials rotor in 160 instead of the Jitsie.

Thank you, hope the shoulder gets better soon!

Hey @Ali C Do you foresee any issues using the 24" Light Bicycle Recon rim with a Conti Macaskill tyre? Tarty says that this tyre isn't sold as a tubeless tyre, and I'm worried that with the hookless design of the LB rim, it could be incompatible. Chakers

Fitted a Rimpact to a V2 rim with a Conti Macaskill tyre today. Was an absolute PITA. I've never gotten the tyre bead to sit equally around the rim, but it still seals and holds pressure well with the insert in. I'd like to try the updated V2 rim which Tarty say is officially tubeless compatible.

It's a Messenger chat where admins have to approve the new users, but because it's not publicly visible it's dependant on people already in the group to add others.

Been on a few work do's there in Jericho/Gloucester Green area but nothing that stands out to me, unless you'd be willing to venture into the Uni's. Didn't help that it was at night but in general I've never considered oxford to be a great place for street, too busy, too tightly packed. Swindon, however, has a good number of spots in the town center, plus there is a group on Facebook that organise rides on the weekends.

I bought some new pistons and seals for the front, and OMFG this brake is insane! super grabby and super powerful, to the point that the rear feels weak by comparison now. Feel a bit silly for ordering 200mm rotors now, but hey ho they will get used regardless.

The E4's on my MTB have never had this issue when I've had to pump the pistons out to clean them.

@DJEHB Definitely something wrong with the front brake. I turned the bike upside down to look at how the pistons were being pushed out and retracting, and found that I couldn't push the pistons out past where they already were. I could pull the lever to the bar and it would barely move out and when I put the wheel back in the fork, the lever still pulled to the bar. This has happened twice now; first time I chalked it up to being set up poorly, but I recently bled it and the lever feel was nice and firm until I pumped the brake when the bike was upside down. There is also this weird squelch like sound coming from the lever when I pull the brake now. Have I got busted seals in the master cylinder?