dezmtber

There's plenty of space next to the bmx race track for it too.

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/184246-karrimor-gecko-trail-shoes-bargain/#entry2538781 I just got a set of these mint for £21

i will ask a freind at manchester velodrome if there is a possibilty ?

I just picked up a pair of these for a bargain at £21 They seem a good shoe for the job. Just thought a few of you lot may like a new set of shoes should give them a go for this cheap price tag, as I am best pleased for a cheap set of shoes. http://store.karrimor.com/karrimor-gecko-mens-trail-running-shoes-183092

Those bmf rims should have an erd 548. Mist of the try all rims are 543. Your spokes will be 2.5 mm too long. I would say give it a go if you don't mind trying. If you need it ASAP get some new spokes before you start.

Funn and halo used to do a 24 48 hole rims. The funn rim had an awsome brake surface too.

Pretty shure u will not need any of the vee brake washers on that. As far as I am aware the avid juicy and earlier elixer calipers are the part that's different. The mounts will work the same as hope, shimano, magura ect. The mount will add plus 0, 20, 23 or 43 for use with 160, 180, 183 or 203 rotors. There are a few others but if you have a magura brake and want to use a 180 rotor on an +20 fork Any 160 mount works without vee washers.

It's good to see its a bb30 axle. I have seen mtb and road 24mm axles snap. I just think the bb30 axles should last a good few years before any fail. The 24mm wouldn't last a few months heavy use. Unless they were solid throughout. P.s another shimano 24mm bites the dust. On a road bike

Jack of all trades is king. Keep at it, riding many bikes is only a good thing

I think an indoor trials course would work better in a velodrome. To apeal to older riders with transport. And cash spare.

My wheel was moving slightly. So i put steel snail cam bolts in. It's fixed now anyway. Thanks for the advice. I may fish out the old torque wrench later and check it though.

I had a thought you were going to say you upgraded to the 17mm bolts. A few of my mates did that to there dirt jump bikes. I think I just tighten then too carefully.

definitly brute on that one. i run a pro 2 on snail cams and tryed alloy bolts on the cam bolts and bent the head on the bolt. using steel now and all good. have you been rounding off any of the m10 allen key bolt then with that much brute to hold the wheel?

Unless you can pull the right strings, hope will do a cost price replacement as Matt said. I am pretty sure unless they still have a drive ring or hub shell complete.

Sorry lads I forget to mention my ffw was a tensile 60 click. So the hope feels awsome to me. The engagement of better ffw setups would deffinatly have its advantages.

Even more to the hope I prefer it to a ffw setup.

I would suggest. Try taking out the master cylinder check the seals are not cut or broke. If there ok refit then with slicon oil or fork grease. If the resovoir seal doesn't work.

thats the bit i had forgot, its been ages since i fitted a howitzer

those 158 mod cranks would make the pedal feedback the same as most 24 and 26 bikes. mods runing 160-165 cranks are quite a bit easier to pedal than 24 with 170 and 26 with 175 cranks. a 175 crank on a 24 bike should feel much like a mod running 165

I think the word everyone is looking for is gain ratio. Rather than gear ratio. A gain ratio calcuation includes cog sizes wheel sizes and crank length. Sheldon brown knows

The last comp I did I had 30-50 seconds left after the end gate. But I dropped loads of 5's from rushing sections. Best bit of advice I have is talk to the other riders and walk the sections before riding them I would say that part is more than half the work.

I am not sure but I think that looks like it should take a 5-6 speed screw on freewheel. Dmr do a singlespeed screwon hub in 36h

http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=3339&p=21838&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Cycle%20Tools&gclid=CLb3nquNqLkCFQ_LtAodfQwAaQ

Wouldn't the 3/8 drive not allow the tool to go over the axle. If you are running howitzer bb you need a tool that looks more like a spanner. Those cup tools only work with the cranks where the axle is attached to the crank.

Do long cranks still work if your a short arse ?