AdamR28

Cheap, tatty, simple cars for your first one = win.

Hmm, I wouldn't have thought that would make a difference really. Probably more down to how much torque the hub shell itself transmits - if not much, the drive side tension will increase in relation to the non drive, pulling the wheel across. If the shell is stiff, it will transfer the torque through into the non drive spokes too, and tension increases in both sides at a more equal rate, and wheel stays central? And the frame and hub axle/mounting system will make a difference too, of course.

Next door to the old one On the left as you are facing the building. I'll be there if I'm free!

- Patented offset mounting method allows the cylinders to be positioned slightly further out than standard mounts (but not further in - see photos), ideal if your rim is a little too wide for the frame. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/images/custom/large_tensilein.jpg http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/images/custom/large_tensileout.jpg

Standard thread. They can be tight, as they will tighten up when you pedal. - Bolt tool to FW (use an old square taper LH BB cup screwed into the FW) - Clamp tool in vice - Twat hole in lockring with old screwdriver/chisel and hammer

Hadn't thought of that actually - if it's the hub, it won't skip when you do that (because it will already be engaged and locked in place). If it's the chain wrap, it will.

Ok cool, well if it's skipping there will be noise - whether it's the chain or hub. Look forward to seeing what the solution is!

Ah, if there are no noises then it won't be skipping. Suggests sticky freehub, possibly dead bearing, missing spacer or seal not seated correctly.

Yeah, the headtubes seem to be faced from the factory, but wouldn't harm to do it yourself to be sure. Fitting a different set of forks may give the same noise if the crown hasn't been faced. I would be tempted to smear grease on all the contact surfaces in the headset (bearings to races, bearings to cups) and try again. That will tell you if it's defo bearings shifting around, then you know you need to look at alignments. Edit: Yeah, that split ring doesn't look to be the correct one for the headset...

Aah - I missed that, sorry. But yes, that will show for sure where the problem is.

When it skips, is there just a big bang, or does drive completely disappear for a split second (and your body lurches forward, leaving the bike behind)?

That's some sort of headtube/headset/crown race alignment issue. Bearings moving around in the cups.

Cut the old tube out, get a new tube, cut it, tie the two ends in knots? If you can find a 29" tube, you shouldn't have any 'gaps' in the tyre either (assuming you are riding 26").

Yeah I was being serious - as mentioned, a larger rear sprocket would 100% rule out the chain/sprocket issue though, worth a go.

Chainline looks alright, I would say it's the chain skipping over the rear sprocket. There's about 6 teeth contact there, not much. Get a friend to video you/your rear mech while you are riding? If it's the sprocket/chain, it will be obvious.

+1!

Pretty much the same price as a Sky, maybe a touch less.

New Echos? No plans as far as we know. There is a non-SL version of their 26" frame too.

No worries. If nearly all the holes appear the same that would explain it, rim wasn't fixed in the jig correctly before drilling. Would also explain why the ones I looked at are ok too. Will be in touch Tuesday, we'll get you sorted out! Thanks.

Ok, so its pretty late, I'm on holiday, have only had a couple of hours sleep last night (on a hospital floor) and I'm on my phone so apologies if this reply isn't as professional as it could be. Obviously we are happy you received your order to Portugal in less than 2 days, but we are not happy and are sorry you're not happy with the rims you received, and want to put that right. It's very unfortunate there could be a further delay in getting your bike finished, but it was your choice to wait for the rims to come into stock. This Is is the reason we don't do pre-orders as we can't guarantee when stuff will come back in. I also apologise this wasn't spotted before dispatch, but I hope you can appreciate checking every square millimetre of each product that goes out would mean you'd still be waiting for your order to arrive next week! Anyway, looks from here that the drill bit has just snagged a bit and caused a burr, its structurally completely fine and will build up perfectly if you want to get the bike up and running. In that case we would liaise with Inspired (who have also been closed today as Jon is getting married) to sort you a partial refund. If you would like them exchanged we can sort that too, but unfortunately no progress can be made until after the bank holidays, sorry. I was in work today (was meant to be off) and saw your email, checked a couple of rims and didn't see any others with similar issues, obviously they aren't 100% perfect since they are made to a price. If you wanted to pay £200 a rim then yes, they would be spot on. I'll be in touch on Tuesday, but to sum up for now: - Sorry! - If you want to use the rims they will be functionally fine, we'll sort compensation. - If you want them replacing, we will get onto it Tuesday. Hope everyone has a good weekend. Adam

There's your problem.

Approximately 60% your fault, 30% new Hope brakes' fault, and 10% 'I need to get back out riding again's' fault... Pics when I've sorted chain tension and a seat...

Fun times! That was quality. Was like going back in time 10 years (without the drunken-ness and sausage face-slapping). Makes me want a 24 even more. Shame I can't manual, bunnyhop, or spin. Hmm.

Space again

It'll be under no load though, and you can just pop a dab on threadlock on there. Having the recess for the circlip will add a few mm to the overall depth, which is pretty crucial in that area.