AdamR28

The difference is suprising, actually! Not so noticeable when going from your bike to someone elses, but if you change the ratio on your own bike it feels a hell of a lot different in my experience!

Try it and see. Stickier the better. Ideally you want something that goes all stringy when you try to pull it out the pot - you know the stuff (Y)

Could always try that? Since it'll work n stuff. You need something REALLY goopy, like 'Slick Honey' Lube (if you can find any), or Bullshot, etc.

It'll still be loud with oil.

I now see a good reason for the price being a little more than I expected. Top stuff Luke! Can't wait to get hold of one!

You could try whacking thick sticky grease (so it doesnt shift about) between the ratchet and pawls (where they meet), but NOT on the spring(s). Then it should still engage properly, but be less noisy. Adam

265 all round. Adam

The KOT frames are made of U6 by Pulo, and designed/tested in Latvia.

I couldn't find it online! The long cut in that picture I posted above is made with an angle grinder...

It rides nice, looks clean, very light (3.5lbs). The prototype has geometry of approx 1080wb - 72head - 380stays - +20bb. I was hoping them to be a little less pricey than that though!

I'd recommend Loctite 406, and some proper primer. Of course, superglue and no primer will do the job, but might not stay held together so well.... Epoxy is only good if the fit isnt very good - ie. it will fill gaps when you f**k up (Y) The only decent epoxy I've used on pads is some UHU Heavy Duty Plus+ stuff I got from Morrisons, haha. You can double the cure strength by heating it to about 100'C (instructions on the packaging) This is how I used to hand cut pads: Done by hand with a 6mm drill bit. Using an actual drill usually makes it snatch and tear a big hole in the backing. Angle grinder for the sides, stanley for the middle bit. Good luck, its tough! See if you can get something else to practice with first, I guarantee your first few goes will be shoddy compared to what you can do after a few attempts...

Sounds like you just need to leave it be for a few weeks!

They do feel a little more 'mushy' than normal discs, simply due to the extra leverage (it makes the calipers flex/pads squash). Once the brakes been used a bit though, it firms up nicely, and you dont notice any more flex than any other brake when riding (thats if the brake is brand new - the pads compress a little as theyre wearing in). My advice: leave it!

Anyone with a decent virus blocker feel free to try again now - should be sorted. Apologies for any inconvenience. Adam

Ideally you'll want something with a bit more rise, such as a HiFi stem. Adam

Can't do anything about it, sorry, FTP has been disabled due to everything being shifted to a new server at the moment. Will be fixed asap. Adam Edit: Its coming from this site: http://jamgerr.com/index.html **DO NOT CLICK THIS LINK** If you want to manually set your browser to block that site, then that should help.

Screwdriver and a mallet* *If you havent got any proper tools anyway

We used http://www.oneandone.co.uk - think it was about about £5 for 2 years for a .co.uk, and £9 a year for .com. Been no problems so far :D Cheers Adam

Tis the 'Low' verision Steve :D

I have to agree... Obviously would change some stuff, but the whole Matt Black thing does it for me!

That will have been me. We were led to believe the frame would be a dark grey colour, so the picture was edited to make it grey, and thus (so we thought) more accurate, to stop you getting loads of emails asking for a purple Zoot <_<

Fit the BB as shown in the picture <_< Spacer on the drive side.

Its impossible to tell like that - the only way is to measure it. I get the sidewalls to come out at around 2.0mm, compared to most other rims I have here at 1.25-1.5mm. Weight is 717g for a 26" rear, pretty decent!

It has external bearings - theres not enough room for a freewheel to fit.

Yep :( Adam