AdamR28

Yeah George is a top lad. As said, I have his old car and he has mine. If the shit doesn't turn up, I'll refund you the £45 myself Front pads - what will you be using the car for? EBCs are turd in general. George will likely have whatever you need on the shelf

Forgive the ignorance... but... '5 as in MX-5?

Yeah, what's up with them? I must have used a set for a couple of years on the back with no issues.

Rosberg is such a turd.

0.1s a lap... 6-7s at the end of the race, that's a big difference.

It's not quite as simple as that, when you're in the car and going balls out everywhere (I know F1 isn't like that because of other stupid rules, but hear me out :P) you literally don't have any grip left available to change direction / avoid an incident by carving a tighter turn, so you HAVE to run wide. This is fair enough IMO. Running wide every f**king lap (Vettel) is definitely not on though, and it's relatively easy to police. There are pressure pads at a lot of UK circuits now which are linked to cameras - you get a pretty picture when you roll over them. Put the pressure pad a few inches further from the white line than the width of a car and hey presto, instant evidence that you WERE off track, then apply the penalty. There are some cases where running wide does lose time, but with all these new concrete / astro run-offs and stuff I think these are few and far between. They manage ok at Monaco, and a 5s penalty is a lot better than having to rebuild a corner of the car...

Meaning... the weld (stress concentration) is now down the 'inside' of the legs, rather than on the back, which is a much less highly stressed area. The front and back of the legs are constantly under tension and compression when hooking / tapping etc, but the inside is neutral.

Pics went up last night http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/26_inch_forks/trialtech_sport_lite_26_inch/c40p12187.html

It's not (I know from when I fitted mine!), but I see where you're coming from. It does add cost and effort, but I think it's worth it. I'm pretty blasé about stuff like this but I would do it properly in your case. It seems like you'll be keeping the car a while, its already stripped apart and getting some spreader plates welded into the shell isn't a big job. All you need is some 3mm plate, a drill and a friendly chap with a welder who will work for Rekorderlig and biscuits (that's kind of a hint, but I am pretty busy at the mo so it might have to be some sort of actual payment) and you're away. Doing it the 'correct' way will increase chassis stiffness / improve handling too, at the moment the cage won't be doing much and just flexing the shell around the mounting points. Think of it that way and it might persuade you to get it done

Refer to my comment about a thousand ago saying you should have just bought a 172 Cup

Seriously serious. Many 'u what m8' moments...

And in the other corner... I've driven around MX-5s with holes in the sills for ages, raced with much worse bodge repairs than that. Given what the car is worth, I don't think it's worth doing a much better job really.

It costs shitloads to develop a new tyre. The current one works great, sells well, is light, cheap, grippy... I don't think may people will be able to help with your initial question, I can't think of anyone else who runs such low pressure.

Run the disc side tensioner (tug or cam) on the outside of the frame, drive side put it between the frame and hub, frame will squeeze in a few mm but that will work

Cracking tip that Tom, cheers!

Good stuff Mike, decent price that. Weird the offside went first, guess the drain holes must have been blocked at some point. In MX-5 related news, finally got this on the road last night... Runs about 300bhp at the hubs (370ish at the fly according to the dyno operator), when it isn't misfiring, grrrrr....

I don't think it's worth bothering with as the rear end is pretty much just there for show anyway

If you want to see the advisories, the online system is updated as soon as the test is logged, so they'll be online now.

Hmm, I've seen that sort of thing on kit cars, but only M10 usually. Custom made - steel tube, nylon bush, weld a bolt to it?

What sizes?

Used to have one. Would have one again. Cracking car for the cash.

You don't need one, the cams don't need locking. Just twist them back round into position as you fit the belt. There's a hex on the camshaft itself, or you can use the cam sprocket bolt.

Good day out on Saturday at Blyton Park in a sprint event, sharing my old car with the new owner (sold it end of last year)... He had a track day at the circuit the day before to practice, plus I was going first so his runs would be on warm tyres - I was worried he might beat me...! A class win for both of us, him by 2 seconds and me be 4 and a half, that'll do He also won his class again on Sunday with a slightly quicker time, and every other driver I've coached before (another 3 of them) won their classes on both days too. Really chuffed that things are starting to come together.

Are you actually measuring the ERD though? Reason I ask is that it doesn't sound like it: https://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure

That's definitely not, anything less than 530 ERD for a 26" rim is nuts... correct lacing pattern?