trials_pimp

Must be a northern thing, as every Halfords I have been in, and its alot, there has yet to be one compitent bike mechainc. Let alone the other departments, I wouldnt let a Halfords "mechanic" scrape the shit off my shoe, let alone fix My car. You may have it nice where you work, but I garuntee you would be happier to work in a proper bike shop. The only thing halofrds have going for them is: They open Sundays, and late weekdays They have a good selection of tools. If your happy where you work, then you have at it, but MY PERSONAL OPINION is that Halfords is just another shop, where no one cares, or wants to care about fixing bikes or car, let alone have the required qualifications to do so. (aimed more at cars than bikes)

Dont include the armchair, thats mine ofr the night ;):D I officialy shotgun the reclining armchair..........

Dont show up. The best thing you can do. Working at halfords, is like working at Mac-shcak, only instead of poorly made food, its poorly made bikes and parts.

Dont follow the path I have. My back is f**ked for life, and I belive its to do with my bad posture. My spinal muscles have locked up around my spine. Sometimes when I get up, my back gives up, and I have to immediatly sit, or fall down. I get chronic back pains. If I ride for more than about 3 hours, my back starts to hurt, and I loose all power to my legs. The longer I ride, the weaker my legs become, and its very noticeable. I have been through Physiotherapy, and been on a spinnal stability cource for months, and it has only made the slightest difference. Sit up stright now, dont f**k your back up at such an early age.....

How would one go about using the widcomm drivers? I just pluged it in, and let it instal.

Well then, Worthing rides will have to go by car. We shuold have enough for all our bikes and riders. Lord knows we can get loads in/on my car.............

well then, basics, for bike repairs: 2 - 10mm Allen keys Screw drivers Hammer 6 - 21mm spanners 6 - 21mm sockets with relevent ratchets Adjustable spanner Side cutters, good ones Combination plyers, good ones Pump Tyre levers Spoke keys Chain tool BB tool - + spanner, or bar to fit Crank tool Pedal spanner Hacksaw Bleed kit Cassette tool chain whip Files Tap and dye kit That should cover you for most work you can do on on a bike, obviously you will need to buy other tools if you need them for differnt jobs. If you wanted to spend more, you could get: Truing stand headset press Bike Stand ect

Because they are slow, and crash when you try and do anything remotly quicky. and just in general use, its crap to use, and interact with. the only thing they have going for them, is the lod speaker on the back. Everyone I know with one, hates it.

I have XP, and there is a short cut in my computer, and it does nothing. You click it and it says "the divice is not working or plugged in" When it is working, as the signal light is flashing. If you right click any of the short cuts, all you get is cut, or move, no open ect.

someone has never used a Snap-on tool in his life. Park are ok, not the best ive used by far............... And thats with 3 years bike trade, 3 years car trade. Seeing as bike tools dont take much abuse (if you know what your doing) I would recamend Halfords profesional for spanners. Roloff Chain tool (£250) Park Spoke keys Any allen keys, they arent expencive, so any will do.. 2 - 10mm.... Crank tool, Chain Whip (the best ive used is mine, made from an FAS power pro crank, and a shimano chain) Screw drivers, a selection, big and small, phillips, and straight., Make a headset press from either a peice of wood and a large hammer, or a very long bolt, and sone big washers. cassette tool BB tool Good side cutteres Good combinatrion plyers. Mole grips Large hammer Chisels Tap and dye kit This list could go on all night, it all depends on what sort of work you are willing to carry out.

Im going to be using it with a Samsung D500, and maybe my motorola V525. I can get it to install, but it ownt work, and Ive read the destructions, and what they say, doesnt happen on my PC........................

The best thing to do with a Motorola V525 is set it onfire, and bury the remains in a deep ditch, which you will then throw grenades at untill you see no ditch, the set fire to the land it was in. I know, as I have one. They suck major poodle plumbs................. i saw the light, and Upgraded to a Samsung D500 today....................

I wouldnt say so. ive seen everything from goths, to absoute townies riding trials, and properly. Trials should stay as it is, not fashonable. Those who want to ride, ride, and ride in what they want. If our doing this for the fashion, quit now, because your a tool.......

OK, i got a new phone, and a dongle today. Instal the sofware, ok, instal the dongle into usb port, ok instals, ready to use. Click the icon on the desktop, notinh, left click it, you only get cut, and move to, no open. Try the startbar usb buttons, one is configure, and says everything is ok. the other syas check the device is pluged in and working. If you left click one, it comes up with configure divice, click on that and it comes up with, the software you have isnt lisenced for this option. I cant figure this out......... Anyone have any idea how to set these damn things up? Ive unistalled everything to do with the bluetooth conection.

I think he means brands....... I only use 2 makes of tool at work. Snap-on Halfords professional. Both are very hardwearing, have a lifetime garuntee, and do exactly what they say on the tin..........

Please give me some info on this comp. If its not too far, and not to late, I would like to ride..........

OH NO.... Dont let the big secret out. Im not going to tell you that you can replace the red adjuster with a sbolt. I havent mentioned that for about 30p you can go to the local bolt shop and buy a bolt that will fit. You didnt hear from me thats its as easy as removing the lever, and screwing the bolt in after you take the red adjuster bolt out. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ HIGHLY CONFIDENTIAL^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

The 1st car made was a Chrysler Horseless Caridge, the 1st production car was the Ford Model T. But seeing as you want a car a bit newer...... Avoid French cars, they fall apart, are unrelaible, and look shit. The build qulity is crap, and they have the noticable hadicap of being french. The New mini is for poofs, and is just a heap of crap, if you want one, get a Proper mini. If you want all out reliability, get a japaneese car, they are way ahead in this field. Avoid Rovers, dont really need to explain that one. If you want cheap to run, and some reliability, with readily available parts, get a Ford. The Older, the better :) Pre 80s are the best..... Corsas just need to be set on fire, as they suck ass. You need to decide exactly what you want out of the car. Reliablity good MPG Cheap/easy to repair Looks Performance Cheap insurence Space for bikes Features Price Once you have figured out whats more important, you can then choose a car. If you have lots of money, and want good perfomance, and fuel ecconmoy, get one of the New Ford TDCi (Turbo Diesil Commonrail Injection) They have tonnes of Torque, and power, and have the ecconomy of a diesil. the 1.6 TDCi focus is one of the best. - Ironicly, the 1.6 is faster than the 2.0l

I have never heard of a hesitating being caused by a head gasket. Do you mean, that when you go to accelerate from stnadstill, your car misfires and seems underpowered, and then picks up. Do you have any misfires when you are going along? Try getting to 30mph, then putting it in 5th, and put your foot down. If there is a problem with the ignition system, your car should missfire and judder, if its fine, then your car should slowly pick up, and simply strugle. Before jumping in to have headgaskets, and heads fitted, check the basics. Remove spark plugs. Inspect them, they should be a little whitened. Check for cracks, burns, chips, damage to the centre electrode. Just make sure the plugs are all in good condition. Check the HT leads, makre sure they are not broken or loose. check all connections. If you have a Mutlimeter, check the resistance of them. Cheack all electrical conections to the Coil/coil pack. Make sure none of these have split of corroded. If evrything seems fine, then the problem may lie in a componenet, and it will require testing. If your headgasket had gone, your oil would become thick, and start looking yellow. You would either get blue or white smoke from the exhaust, of your car would overheat. I cant really give you a proper diagnosis wothout seeing the car, If you arent too far from me, I woulldnt mind having a look for you. Dont let some dodgy back ally garage take yor cash and do things they dont need to.

Sidehop to stop to front to back. There we go...........................

Have a look in the local Yellow pages, or go to your nearest Suzuki dealer, and ask them where the nearest Enging builders/reconditioners is. They will sell you a 2nd hand engine, thats been reconditoined for a good price, and they will agruntee it. Suzuki will do recon engines aswell. ebay will give you no garuntee that an engine you buy will work.

Heres my Mini. Mini Mustang (Y)(Y):D:D:D:D

Stop being so damn cheap, and go out and buy a new lever Problem solved.

I wasnt sure of the time, was just thinking we could have the silence at the time of the Trajedy. I will find out the time, and we WILL do something

My drean house wouldnt be soo big, that you would get lost in it. 5-6 bedrooms, with a bathroom for each. Nice sized kitchen. Large rear garden, with a patio and pool for bbqs A Big Garage, with a 2 post and a 4 post lift, for doing work on my cars. Including a rolling road, and all the other test equipment I would need. A climate controled showroom, to sotre my cars. wear house, for thing like indoor riding, massive partys ect. There wouldnt be anything there i didnt need, but then this will never bcome true, so why do I bother. Time spend wishing, is time wasted.