forteh

Maths fail, got as an engineer its quite embarrassing :$

37g off one component is quite alot 37g off a tyre isnt a huge amount and not worth spending money on, however save 37g off your innertubes and youve save 64g off the revolving weight of the wheels which in turn makes the bike feel infinitely lighter.

The use of a folding kevlar bead over steel doesnt save all that much weight, its only a matter of 30-50g I think on a 26" tyre. The real weight saving comes with thinner sidewalls, at which point you need to run higher pressures to stop it pinching.

He means the barbed fitting, you can buy them individually from tarty I believe. If youre going to water bleed (recommended really) then you dont need a bleed kit, just take the brake off the bike and bath bleed it - instructions are in the wiki

No, you will need a metric bolt for a pro2 If I had an HD axle I would get some, as I only have the QR then its a bit pointless

Your only option is to buy a new hub/wheel. There is no point getting a front freewheel setup as then you will need a new hub + cranks + freewheel (and possibly a new BB), for the money you can buy a hope proII. Either get validated and buy from here or keep an eye out on ebay for a proII trials hub/wheel. At a pinch you could probably get away with something like a hope XC which will be much cheaper but will still skip under moderate trials use.

Take the BB out, use copper grease on the threads and put it back in, likewise grease the crank splines and it will stop your creaking

Pallet to pallet the biggest Ive done is just shy of 7 foot, I cant gap for shit though Working on the technique though and getting further all the time

The arms look as good as the sd7s so no worries there with sloppy bearings and linkages, would recommend that you change the pads to heatsink cnc vees or similar from here. As said Im using the cnc coust pads from heatsink and theyre very, very good; work the same wet or dry with the light grind. Expensive but they will last for years The advantage of getting cnc backings is they offer more support for the brake material and you can get refill cartridges from different manufacturers to try different compounds. With your current brake pads, using a grind would be likely to make the brake work better but is also likely to shred the material pretty quickly as theyre designed for smooth rims.

If you're using suitable pads then yes it will make the brake more powerful. Be aware though, if using it on the front you probably wont have very much modulation unless you have a very very light grind (almost non-existant ). What brake is it and what pads are you using now? There is nothing wrong with vee brakes, on the front Im using SD7 arms and lever with cnc coustsink pads, a very light grind (as above) and its more than powerful enough - locks and holds fine but retains some modulation (although not as much as a disk). Its half the weight of a 203mm mono trial disk

Brush the grind to get any dust out and clean the pads with some surgical spirit or similar to get rid of any contaminants. My old heatsink reds had started to slip, took them out and cleaned all the clogged aluminium and shit off the pads and they were as new again

I believe they also work pretty well on a worn/dull grind, I havent tried it yet though. The current grind Ive got was done about a month ago with a pretty knackered cutting disk so it wasnt super sharp to start with, its far from harsh though. I think it will work equally well with a light grind as a medium, just need to regrind a bit more often if it loses bite and hold. Best thing to do would be to get some and see how it goes, personally for me they are fantastic but I do spend alot of time and effort making sure my brake is set up as well as possible About the booster, if youre not running one now then you probably wont need one with the yellow pads, although it may make it hold better if your frame is really flexy; because my frame is titanium it is naturally more elastic than aluminium and really needs a light booster. Its really a question of personal feel though, I prefer my brake to bite close to the bars (about 60% of the lever travel) and to be a bit flexy as it helps with the tendonitis in my elderly fingers

Ive just replaced my cnc reds with some yellow refills and I can honestly say they are stonkingly good Bedded in with 10-15 mins riding, bite and hold are unreal - only downside is that theyre very noisy on my setup Running a part worn medium grind on a dx32, home made carbon 2bolt booster on a flexy frame with an RB lever and my emulsion maggie fluid. Ask BJH, bob fossill, danny k, dan brady, wally, eskimo, owen and pogo what its like, I think they all had a play on my bike on the saturday brum ride, dont think anyone disliked the performance of the brake. Given the life of the red pads that I just replaced Im expecting to buy a new set of heatsink refills in about 12 months time

Bit of a bump, its been almost 6 weeks since I did this, the brake is still working perfectly smooth and quickly as it should. Previously with a plain water bleed the slaves would have become sticky by now, I will bump this in a couple of months to report on how its doing

Ive always bled from the lowest point (slaves) and vented at the highest (lever) more chance of trapping air in the lever the other way round. Im still running my water/antifreeze/oil/washing up liquid emulsion and its still perfect after 6 weeks, slaves are lubricated fine. With a plain water bleed I used to get sticky pistons every couple of weeks, I am running very old slaves (10-12 years) though

Yeah Im practising at engineering all the time Still not perfected it yet though For reference I design sewage treatment equipment yay

Nah, I know bugger all about engineering, somehow it funds my titanium bike fetish though to be honest I am pretty crap at the whole stress/strain bollocks, all of my stress lectures seemed to be at 9am the morning after student night hence I didnt usually pay full attention Besides which stainless is generally weaker than mild steel, whilst the alloying elements stop it corroding so much it reduces the strength. As a rule I work on: - Aluminium = 40% the weight of steel Titanium = 60% the weight of steel Ti really isnt that light, makes me laugh when people spend a fortune on a headset with titanium cups when an aluminium one is lighter

The weakening of the rim is negligable, on my dx32 a medium grind will last a good 3-4 months and I would expect at least 12-15 medium grinds out of it, Ive just replaced my heatsink red pads (with some heatsink yellows) they were a year old and still have 2-3mm of material left (thats after sanding 3mm off them to get them to fit my frame/rim ) If your light grind is still slipping then you need different pads, that is of course assuming that your grind is sharp not dull My front rim was smooth running coustsink vees and it worked pretty well, when I went up to lee mill with bigman last october he put the lightest of light grinds on there (literally 1 grinder mark every 5-10mm, he span the wheel and touched the grinder on for a second) and the brake was transformed; works exactly the same in wet or dry, the hold is tremendous and it still has loads of useable modulation. That grind has lasted for the last 6 months.

Is it still 132kg?

Are you on drugs? The yield stress of commercially pure (non alloyed) titanium is comparable to 4130 chromoly steel, 3al-2.5v titanium about 30% higher and 6al-4v is near enough double that of steel Most ti frames are manufactured from 3al-2.5v or a comparable and most components (BB, axles etc) are from 6al-4v.

Im using a 122 with middleburns and unless I trim new brake pads down the cranks hit the maggie slaves Think you will struggle with a 118 no matter what.

You can buy the phatpad refills and fit them to some heatsink V backings

You know it would be the best sex he will ever get

I syringe bleed now that Ive found my syringe again Takes all of a couple of minutes and get a perfect bleed.

Got my yellow refills yesterday morning, Im sure theyre going to be worth the wait